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2012 250sx fork rebuild walkthrough

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is this the same style forks as I got on a 2012 250sx?   my fork seal is leaking and id like to rebuild it myself. im sure its simple... done tons of 03-08 crf450 forks but am not too sure what the ktm runs as it seems they change styles every single year and even the different models are different.

 

doesnt seem like any special tools are really needed to replace the fork seals besides the seal driver? maybe the fork cap wrench makes things easier but im sure a big crescent would work too?

 

is this the video I need to follow for a 2012 250sx?  got the OEM rebuild kit on the way
 

 

Edited by cdf450

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Yes it's that fork

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I've not watched the video, but would add that if you are doing it yourself (then all your friends forks when they discover you can do them) you would be best buying a fork cap tool with the slot in it to use as a holding tool when you are removing the rebound adjuster. I use a piece of alloy with the correct size slot in it as my cap tool doesn't have the slot. When you split the forks, if the guiding bush, which is a large washer mounted above the oil seal is dished, hammer it back flat on a metal plate (I use the back part block on my vice). I don't know if the video suggests a fork bullet for sliding the seals over, but a turn of pvc insulating tape does the same job for free. Other than that straightforward. 

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Yeah I’ve used a 17mm wrench as the rebound adjuster holder tool.. same thing really?? Also have used a greased up ziploc bag condom instead of the fork bullet. Going to the city today. If the local shop has the tools I’ll probably buy them just to make the job easier and have them forever. Mainly the seal driver and fork bullet I’d like to have for the $5 it’s worth. Seal driver is up there though.

Thanks

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Yup, I certainly couldn't seat the oil seals without the driver. Try and get one with the single pin on each half. Some of the double pin ones can stick together and are a twat to separate. 

Edited by 7Tktm
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Just did the rebuild tonight. That was incredibly easy. First fork took about an hour because I followed the video and watched each step twice

 

Second leg I didn’t need the video and had it done in about 20 mins.

 

I did not open my inner chamber to swap the oil though (didn’t get those tools)

 

I did notice that the right leg had troubles rebounding. Seemed like there was no pressure in there. Maybe the bladder needs to be pumped up? It sure didn’t feel that great even when I pulled on it to help it rebound.

 

Also, got a few spare parts in my oem fork rebuild kit and am not too sure where they go. Probably somewhere in the inner cartridge cap? They didn’t mention any of these pieces in the rmatv vid. Really only took the rebound cap off to change oil real quick.

 

375 ml of 10wt oil in each fork. Manual said 365ml. Not sure about the recommended weight for a quick 210lb off-road rider. I guessed when I ordered. Doubt I’ll notice a difference. Forks and rear shock were sprung and valves accordingly for me last summer

 

14mm wrench worked perfect for the rebound rod holder

 

Fork bullet did not get stuck on like many of the rmatv reviews said. Tusk 4 pin seal driver also came apart nicely and price dropped from 35 to 25 after I bought it. Got a $10 refund. Local shop wanted $85 for the seal driver.

 

I’d rebuild my buddies forks for a steak sandwich lunch. Not sure how/why shops charge $200+!!

 

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Your spare parts look like a damper rod seal and bushing for the inner cartridge seal head. Then the long straight things look like the Teflon seal that wraps around your mid valve (on the end of the damper rod).

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