2017 Beta 125 rr-s smog delete

[surfer-dude]

Heres how

First pull the muffler off i had previously removed the db killer plug.

Then tilt the backend up to acces everything

This is when i found a small ring welded on the inside of the header. I guess it just restricts airflow. So i used a dremel and cut the weld and removed the ring. Then i polished the inside nice and smooth for maximum airflow.

After i was done with that i removed all of the smog stuff attached to the carb and all the hoses used to attach them.

After this i went to oriellys auto parts and bought a vacum cap kit and capped off the tube on the header i used a small worm drive clamp becuase it kept blowing off and a couple of other ports. I then rerouted the necessary carb vent hoses using the vacum lines from the old emmisions stuff. I also tied in a gas cap vent tube and valve into the gas tank breather.

I basically simplified the whole system.

Then i removed a plug that covered air fuel mixture screw and fattened it up a couple turns.

The bike now has alot more power. At least a 1/3 more than stock. But it is alot louder and has a slight low mid bog. So i still need to mess with the jetting but i just rev it out to get past the bog. And i think my wife mostly rides under the bog, So its all good untill i decide to mess with it some more.

 

Thats basically where i'm at as of right now.

[engl]

Well, than you can  get a 200ccm cylinder and a fitting head for it. Naracu builds that stuff! (A 183 ccm cylinder without new head is a good solution, too. (eb..))

Than the clutch will be too week. Get a yzf125/WR125 clutch; its bigger and can transmit about 1,6 the torque than stock Beta.

These 30 HPs will than be too much for the rest of the bike.

A problem are the weak steering stops. One fall and there is damage. The regulator can be damaged. Ther you must figure out a diy solution.

Much fun! ;)

[surfer-dude]

On 1/18/2019 at 4:50 AM, engl said:

Well, Much fun! ?

yea mann,I dont relly have any issues or complaints about the bike anymore now that I uncorked it. I need to mess with jetting a little bit, and have a feeling a new pilot will solve the bog that it has, which really isnt even that bad. I just need to play with it a bit.

I also don't really see the need for those kinds of engine or clutch mods because then you start taxing the chassis. After uncorking the exhuast and intake and then removing the emmisions for reliability reasons, it has more power than any 125 4stroke Ive ever ridden. Ive now gotten the little guy up to 80 mph on flat ground, but then it gets a little twitchy. I can go out and do pivot turns and its much more powerful on the hills and in the sand.  This is not my main bike, I ride a beta 500 but the 125 rr-s still a really good low maintenance bike that should be good for a long time.

This bike is a longterm ride, just like an old California plated honda xr would be. I have no plans on modifying  the engine unless its needed, and I plan on keeping it as stock as possible so that tracking parts down isnt an issue.

The only areas of my wifes 2017 beta 125 rr-s that now need addressing are:

1. modifying the triple clamp to run renthal twinwalls or fatbars.

2. moving the choke switch back down to the carb. This is mostly so I can use a more readily available clutch lever and perch. The handle bar choke switch is a good thought but its also under engineered. In my oppion the stock clutch & choke levers are underengineered for strength and durability, and in too much of a vulnerable area. So change them to something stronger like a cr250 perch & lever,  more readily available, and much less expensive. Im thinking 25 dollars verses 250 and built to be very flimsy in a very vulnerable area. I also dont like having to pull the clutch in to start the bike so bypassing that is part of the plan too.

Other than that the little guy is a great bike and doesnt need much else. 

[surfer-dude]

This is the restrictor that i pulled out of the header.

[engl]

11 hours ago, surfer-dude said:

2. moving the choke switch back down to the carb. This is mostly so I can use a more readily available clutch lever and perch. The handle bar choke switch is a good thought but its also under engineered. In my oppion the stock clutch & choke levers are underengineered for strength and durability, and in too much of a vulnerable area. So change them to something stronger like a cr250 perch & lever,  more readily available, and much less expensive. Im thinking 25 dollars verses 250 and built to be very flimsy in a very vulnerable area. I also dont like having to pull the clutch in to start the bike so bypassing that is part of the plan too.

Other than that the little guy is a great bike and doesnt need much else. 

well, you must imagine, that this bike is constructed and built for 16 year old european girls and boys for riding to school and than work until they are 18 years and are allowed to drive a car.

Its NOT constructed for offroad! And therefore its really good!

Edited January 20, 2019 by engl

[Gflo]

13 hours ago, surfer-dude said:

This is the restrictor that i pulled out of the header.

Where in the header is that restrictor?

[surfer-dude]

Pull off the muffler and you cant miss it.

[Gflo]

On 1/19/2019 at 9:20 PM, surfer-dude said:

This is the restrictor that i pulled out of the header.

Got it out.  Mine looks a little different.

 

[surfer-dude]

hows it run?

[Gflo]

Haven’t ridden it yet.  Too cold.  Will soon check out how it runs.  Supposed to warm up this week.

[jussenuf]

Actually removing the piece from the mid-pipe has nothing to do with the smog system. It is there as a less technical piece like Yamaha uses, the exhaust valve and servo unit, to boost low and midrange power at the lower rpm. It probable does reduce high rpm flow in that the Yamaha valve turns and does not reduce as much flow. 

Art

[Burnzi Inness]

On 1/18/2019 at 4:50 AM, engl said:

Well, than you can  get a 200ccm cylinder and a fitting head for it. Naracu builds that stuff! (A 183 ccm cylinder without new head is a good solution, too. (eb..))

Than the clutch will be too week. Get a yzf125/WR125 clutch; its bigger and can transmit about 1,6 the torque than stock Beta.

These 30 HPs will than be too much for the rest of the bike.

A problem are the weak steering stops. One fall and there is damage. The regulator can be damaged. Ther you must figure out a diy solution.

Much fun! ?

Hello, do what year of yz-125 clutch plates , fit the Beta?

[Beta300REcat]

On 1/22/2019 at 12:21 PM, Gflo said:

Got it out.  Mine looks a little different.

Yours is the 'high performance' restrictor. ?

[Burnzi Inness]

On 1/18/2019 at 4:50 AM, engl said:

Well, than you can  get a 200ccm cylinder and a fitting head for it. Naracu builds that stuff! (A 183 ccm cylinder without new head is a good solution, too. (eb..))

Than the clutch will be too week. Get a yzf125/WR125 clutch; its bigger and can transmit about 1,6 the torque than stock Beta.

These 30 HPs will than be too much for the rest of the bike.

A problem are the weak steering stops. One fall and there is damage. The regulator can be damaged. Ther you must figure out a diy solution.

Much fun! ?

Hello, do you know What year of yz125 clutch plates fit the rr-s?

[engl]

On 8/19/2019 at 3:51 AM, Burnzi Inness said:

Hello, do you know What year of yz125 clutch plates fit the rr-s?

Its not just the plates. I got a 2011 one. Yo need all the clutch if course. Diameter is bigger

[spova]

@surfer-dude Did you get the bogs and jetting sorted? Would you mind sharing what jetting you ended up going with for this smog delete?

[firffighter]

4 hours ago, spova said:

@surfer-dude Did you get the bogs and jetting sorted? Would you mind sharing what jetting you ended up going with for this smog delete?

He departed from this website a couple of months ago.  He had some, let's say......."issues"

[Gflo]

15 hours ago, spova said:

@surfer-dude Did you get the bogs and jetting sorted? Would you mind sharing what jetting you ended up going with for this smog delete?

My daughter has one.  I took out all the exhaust restrictions, went up two on the main, one on the pilot, and shimmed the needle.  Not a lot of difference over stock, but it does pull a little harder, especially from mid on up.  I have no bogging issues.  Generally, desmogging isn’t going to do anything performance wise.  It does make the bike easier to work on and may help with popping on decel.  Smog delete should have no impact on jetting.  What will have an impact is when you are changing the amount of air in and out of the engine by freeing up the intake and exhaust.  Removing the smog equipment does none of that.

[surfer-dude]

On 11/17/2020 at 4:35 PM, spova said:

@surfer-dude Did you get the bogs and jetting sorted? Would you mind sharing what jetting you ended up going with for this smog delete?

Yes, The bog and jetting seems to be spot on again. Here's what I found:

 I was not happy with the way the bike was running with the stock jetting, or the way it sounded. I felt like it was too loud and I didnt like the tone. So I stuck the ring and cir clip back into the end cap of the muffler. Then I fired it up and took it around the block. It started easier, and from the first twist of the throttle the bog disappeared. It reacted crisp and precise. It gained more usable bottom, and the rest of the powerband just fell back in line. It was also quieter, which I think is better. 

The jetting remains stock, and both me and my wife like it better! 

if you've done all the things that I did, put the thick washer and circlip back into the muffler tip, I think it needs the backpressure.

I think the smog delete keeps excess fuel out of the fuel system which has helped to lengthen the interval that I can let the bike sit without having to pull the carb apart to clean the gunk out.

This bike doesnt get ridden much, so after just about every ride, I turn the gas off and run it out of gas.

I dont like letting it sit more than a few days with fuel in the carb. I also try and run the bike around the block every few weeks if it hasn't been used.

I really don't like cleaning carbs anymore.

I hope this helps..

[FastRC45]

On 11/22/2020 at 8:44 AM, surfer-dude said:

Yes, The bog and jetting seems to be spot on again. Here's what I found:

 I was not happy with the way the bike was running with the stock jetting, or the way it sounded. I felt like it was too loud and I didnt like the tone. So I stuck the ring and cir clip back into the end cap of the muffler. Then I fired it up and took it around the block. It started easier, and from the first twist of the throttle the bog disappeared. It reacted crisp and precise. It gained more usable bottom, and the rest of the powerband just fell back in line. It was also quieter, which I think is better. 

The jetting remains stock, and both me and my wife like it better! 

if you've done all the things that I did, put the thick washer and circlip back into the muffler tip, I think it needs the backpressure.

I think the smog delete keeps excess fuel out of the fuel system which has helped to lengthen the interval that I can let the bike sit without having to pull the carb apart to clean the gunk out.

This bike doesnt get ridden much, so after just about every ride, I turn the gas off and run it out of gas.

I dont like letting it sit more than a few days with fuel in the carb. I also try and run the bike around the block every few weeks if it hasn't been used.

I really don't like cleaning carbs anymore.

I hope this helps..

Just got an '18 for my daughter a month or so ago.  Had to pull the carb and clean the hell out of it, squirt is good but bogs off idle really bad until fully warmed up, and then bogs moderately bad off idle...  VERY interested in getting rid of the bog - so to summarize:

you de-smog'd (next on my list after replacing the bars she bent over new years)

removed restrictor in header

did NOT remove restrictor in end cap (well, removed and replaced)

stock jetting

a couple turns richer on the fuel screw (I did this when cleaning and sorting the AP squirt)

 

When I pulled down the carb to clean, there were some oddities, so I'm trying to get to a setup that is comparable to what someone else has and compare...  The oddities i'm referring to are the check ball in the AP circuit...  under the leak jet was a tiny spring and check ball.  Under the jet at the other end of the circuit (where the squirt leaves the float bowl and goes into the carb body) was just a tiny spring...  There were other indications of maintenance malpractice, but that was the most concerning to me because I can't find a reference to show what's supposed to be there.  Beta manual just shows the floatbowl and jets - cant find a Keihin manual that will show whats under the jets.  At any rate, any details on your results (including/especially what you've posted to date) are GREATLY appreciated...  This is a really cool little bike, but if I can't get her some workable bottom end torque (she's 13, stepping up from a ttr125, so i'm not talking a ton of torque), I think it will wind up being short lived in our garage...