Jump to content

To ball hone or to not ball hone a plated cylinder


Recommended Posts

2 hours ago, SmokinJoe said:

I know that but i posted this because I still see posts on here guys arguing it's okay. 

I love that argument! 

2 hours ago, jamracing said:


Some people need learn thru their wallet unfortunately...

?  :bonk:

EXACTLY!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dint wanna use ball hone . Ive been using a 3 prong hone with 500g stones to deglaze it works awesome in few secs ?  snowmobile cylinders i did recently one next to brandnew cylinder.  

20181227_092510.jpg

20181228_160736.jpg

Edited by Motox367
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just did a new top end a week ago, 2nd one since new. Cylinder still looks brand new, no scratches (except the still visible cross-hatch). 

I sprayed some decarbonizer in the cylinder, ports, PV, etc, and let it soak for awhile, then wiped it down with a paper towel. I've done similar things in the past... For example, brake cleaner and a paper towel. Then I use an air compressor to blow everything out.

Anyway, I warmed up the bike twice for a few minutes once it was back together. Then I ripped it hard at Glen Helen on Thursday. Literally, unloaded, quick warm up, start straight, then first big hill tapped in 3rd, next hill tapped in 4th. She felt as strong as new from the get go and ran hard all day. ?

I'll probably never change my methods.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 hours ago, Motox367 said:

Ball hone will hit the port edges make them chip thats why not recommended.  

Just my experience....  It says, "... Do use a rigid or brush type hone..."  

Only reason I've used one is to go 5-7 turns to put hash marks in it to allow the rings to seat properly.  Posted so I can follow.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

×
×
  • Create New...