KYB SSS oil change & Zeta fork cap install...any tips?

[CaptainKnobby]

The tool I listed above is less than 20 dollars

[todd727]

Ok, bigger than I thought.  A 20mm nut uses a 30mm wrench.  $1.66 from Fastenal.

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/11507011

Or you could splurge and get the brass one for $6.54 if you think you might mar the caps with the steel one.

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/MN2750000BR0000

Edited January 17, 2019 by todd727

[Nelson Carvalho]

Hi, I recently serviced my forks and was a pain in the a## to bleed to closed cartridge...

I think I tried about 20 times because from my understanding after installing the base valve and compress the rod to removed the excess of oil, the rod should extend fully, but I was always having like 20 to 40 mm of non extended rod.

I managed do properly bleed by measuring the height of oil, I think 145 to 148mm to the top of the cartridge, then I put the cartridge in angle , around 45º, and slowly inserted the base valve...with this process and many attempts I could then bleed and the rod was extending all way long after fully compress.

 

My last bike, honda with showa was straight foward to bleed, but this stock Kayaba works a lot better.

[mlatour]

They never fully extend, at a certain point near the end of the stroke the ICS spring is free floating so doesn't pressurize the cartridge.

Actually, fully extending may be a sign you still have air present and that they are not thoroughly bled.

 

Rather than a nominal height or volume, you can't go wrong by slightly overfilling the cartridge

but it may be a challenge to get the base valve to initially thread in.

At this point is about the only time the rod will fully extend by itself.

'short stroking' the rebound rod a few times before fully collapsing it to purge the excess air/oil is often a forgotten step.

Edited January 21, 2019 by mlatour

[Nelson Carvalho]

OK, that's new to me, I thought after bleeding the rod should extend fully...

The way I did was the only way I came up to not hear any air when actuating the rod.

I remember now a step that I made to insert the base valve: I did it in angle and with the rod compressed, as I inserted the base valve the rod extended (in one leg I had to help since with just the force of the base valve was not bleeding correctly)

 

In fact with this setup I ended up with 25mm on not used travel until now, I do not ride hard and added 330ml of 5W oil.

Another thing that I feel, is when I raise to quickly the front wheel the suspension looks to extend and hit a bit hard, I saw some Kayabas that have a small spring for negative travel but not mine...

 

 

 

[CaptainKnobby]

Best way I found Is The way Dave Johnson does it. With inner Cartridge in a clamp vice, fill the Cartridge to about half inch to holes. Stroke rod...lol a few times then let stand for a about 10mins. Stroke few more times then pack the side of Cartridge with handle of screwdriver or something soft like so as to not mar the Cartridge. Do this with the rod halfway up and at full extension a few times. Once all air is out then push rod up in Cartridge about halfway. Finish filling Cartridge with fluid up to Brim. Take Base valve and hold it at a angle and slowly start inserting it into the Cartridge slowly,slowly. Fluid will start to run over at this point. Keep inserting base valve slowly and at the same time start standing it upright as it goes down into the Cartridge. Once it stops going in any farther by by just barely pressing on it, reach down at the rod and start pulling it down at the same time that you are pressing down on the valve with your hand at the top.
Fluid will be pouring out the top and down the sides of Cartridge but that's fine. If you want to save some just have a catch pan that clean underneath the Cartridge.
As you are extending the rod the suction of the fluid will pull the Base valve on down into the Cartridge. Once the rod is all the way extended, reach back up to the top and with your your socket and cap tool go ahead and bare on down on the base valve as you turn the socket to screw the base valve in. Once it is on the you can proceed within Holding the Cartridge parallel with the floor and pushing on the rod all the way in to let any excess fluid come out of the Hole on Cartridge bleed hole.
Now you can stand the Cartridge on the rod against you shoe or against the leg of a bench or something and have it tilted about 10 to 15 degrees and then fully compress the rebound rod.
You will hear air and some fluid may come out the bleed holes also. Do this about twice and you are done.