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xr200r Valve adjustment gap issues

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About 100 miles ago I set the valve lashing for both intake and exhaust.  I also tighten the cam chain.

I checked lash recently and there is no lashing.  The valves are tight.  I rotated the T mark180 degree and there still is tight values.  I don't think this engine can hold the clearance.  

I'm going to pull the head cover off.  The engine ran for maybe 20 miles on low oil.  The engine kicks out unburnt oil into the exhaust pipe.

 

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Regarding the valves, you might not have had it in time to begin with. Or maybe you didn't get the jam but completely tight, or when you tightened the jam nut you let the adjuster screw tighten with it? 

As for the oil issue, you didn't say anything about the history of your engine, so it could be rings, or valve guides. Could be a variety of things. 

Maybe you should get a manual? 

Edited by Daniel627
Typo

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The engine has low compression about 70 psi.  It also consumes oil.  There is oil / tar like substance in the exhaust.   I just got the engine out today from the frame.   When I take the engine apart I'll share some pics.

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Sounds like badly worn cylinder/rings.
I found the easiest way to adjust the valves is with a Motion Pro feeler and tool, and I always check the clearances after adjusting.  Proper position is TDC with the cam lobes down. A genuine Honda shop manual is the best source for engine maintenance and repair.

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Part No. 08-0586lg_08-0586.jpg

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If the valves are tightening up in 100 miles, then first check your air filter.  Dirt/sand getting in will eat the valve seats quickly.  It could also mean that the valves and/or seats are just worn out and need some work.  Burning oil can be valve stem seals and/or piston/ring/cylinder wear.  

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I got the bike 

39 minutes ago, sirthumpalot said:

If the valves are tightening up in 100 miles, then first check your air filter.  Dirt/sand getting in will eat the valve seats quickly.  It could also mean that the valves and/or seats are just worn out and need some work.  Burning oil can be valve stem seals and/or piston/ring/cylinder wear.  

I got the bike used.  It looked as if the air filter had never been changed.  The foam was breaking off in chunks as I tried to clean it.  I junked it and got a new filter. 

I'll share some picks when I get the head off. 

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17 hours ago, Chuck. said:

Ouch!

I hope this does not get to expensive.  The bike does run.  I got it for a good deal plus it was WA plated back in the day when WSP inspected bikes.  Being that it is an 87 I put collector plates on it.  So I never need to register it again.  If the bike was not plated I would have walked away.

Edited by wazzabie

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It might not be expensive, the thing to do is inspect what you have so that you know what you're working with.  Have the cylinder measured to make sure it's still round and within spec.  Have the head checked out to make sure the valves, valve seats and valve guides aren't too worn.  Evaluate what you have then decide how best to approach it.  

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