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5.3 Chevy Pick’em up Truck needs some maintenance


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On 2/9/2019 at 11:34 AM, gedakbx said:

how long do the water pumps and fuel pumps go?

Until they don't. My wifes '12 Buick Regal needed a water pump, my 2000 F250 is at 195,000 with the original water pump. Fuel pumps are good so far. For the most part a water pump will give some warning when it is going out by showing as a leak. A fuel pump may give some warning or just quit all at once. Water pumps are usually not a wear item bit are replaced on import cars with internal pumps when replacing timing belts.

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15 hours ago, SMarquez said:

Until they don't. My wifes '12 Buick Regal needed a water pump, my 2000 F250 is at 195,000 with the original water pump. Fuel pumps are good so far. For the most part a water pump will give some warning when it is going out by showing as a leak. A fuel pump may give some warning or just quit all at once. Water pumps are usually not a wear item bit are replaced on import cars with internal pumps when replacing timing belts.

Water pump felt good upon inspection last week end. My ford f150 water pump went at 200,000 km with zero warning, no leaking or bearing noise at all.

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On 2/7/2019 at 6:11 AM, offrd beatr said:

The plugs should come out nice, I've never had any trouble with them. The lower rad hose is the best way to drain coolant. Valve cover gaskets are easy. Maybe look into intake gaskets as they are probably close to needing replacement. While you're under the intake if your engine still has the knock sensors located in the valley pan you should replace them and the short harness for them. 

Interesting, the engine light came on after unhooking the ground cable to battery for a few days and reconnecting it.  My code reader says P0332, knock sensor.  I erased the code and will see if it comes back on.  Good call.  This is the first time I’ve gotten a code.  

 

Edited by Baja Rambler
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On 2/10/2019 at 3:56 AM, Piney Woods said:

OK, never heard it called that. Thought maybe you meant the overflow catch tank. I normally keep my vehicles 8-16 years and have never replaced a radiator. Just sold our 01 Tahoe to a niece last year and it is still original except for the hoses. Current Yukon is an 08 and everything on it was installed at the factory when they built it. Guess we have been lucky. 

The main issue I hear of is either the end tanks cracking, or, more commonly, someone mixes coolants and they get blocked in such a way a flush wont fix..

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  • 1 year later...

Update:

I had to replace the stupid battery again and Home Despot gave me a full cash refund since they no longer carry them.  Got an Interstate from costco this time.  Also, a rat chewed an FI plug wire that was in the way of his comfortable nest.  Have not done any of the other stuff and now getting a P0053 code on the O2 sensor.  Is there an O2 sensor on each side of the 5.3?  I’m at 132,000 miles now on those plugs, still runs silky smooth!

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Unless you need the CEL off for inspection, I wouldn’t worry about an O2 code. My kid knocked the insides out of his cats in his 5.3 Silverado and it runs fine. My 98 Camry has a O2 code and it runs great and get 25/26 mpg.

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On 3/4/2021 at 7:32 PM, 3Deuces said:

Unless you need the CEL off for inspection, I wouldn’t worry about an O2 code. My kid knocked the insides out of his cats in his 5.3 Silverado and it runs fine. My 98 Camry has a O2 code and it runs great and get 25/26 mpg.

There's about 20 different codes that the o2 sensors can set depending on issue. Wouldn't recommend just ignoring them as some codes will affect driveability. 

 

The 5.3 has 4 o2 sensors, two before the cats controlling air fuel mix, and two after the cats to monitor cat performance. Your code is likely an internal issue with the sensor, or chaffed wire, etc. Inspect sensor wires,  if all good replace sensor itself.

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6 hours ago, urrick15 said:

There's about 20 different codes that the o2 sensors can set depending on issue. Wouldn't recommend just ignoring them as some codes will affect driveability. 

 

The 5.3 has 4 o2 sensors, two before the cats controlling air fuel mix, and two after the cats to monitor cat performance. Your code is likely an internal issue with the sensor, or chaffed wire, etc. Inspect sensor wires,  if all good replace sensor itself.

Agreed, but it’s pretty easy to tell if the drivability is affected. If the vehicle’s running like crap, then fix it. Otherwise ignore. Just like the stupid evap codes that every old gm vehicle eventually gets. Moms 07 Impala has one, and other than disabling the remote start, it doesn’t act any different.

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I'd replace the exhaust manifold bolts before they break.  Get a kit at Napa and it takes a half hour or so.  Once they break it's a pain.  

My waterpump on my 6.0 started leaking around 100k.  It didn't go out, it started dripping from the weep hole.  I replaced the plugs at this time and they looked fine.  

I replaced the fuel pump assembly with a GM one around 120k for preventative.  Parts gal at the dealership I've used for decades said they don't go out like they did in the 90's.  

Great engine.  The valve deactivation is a bad deal for these engines though.  Roller lifters can rotate in and wipe out the camshaft.  Deactivate if you have it.  

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On 2/20/2019 at 6:16 PM, Oil Baron said:

Interesting, the engine light came on after unhooking the ground cable to battery for a few days and reconnecting it.  My code reader says P0332, knock sensor.  I erased the code and will see if it comes back on.  Good call.  This is the first time I’ve gotten a code.  

 

You probably got water under the intake when you washed the engine. The knock sensors are down in some little pockets perfect for collecting water. 

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On 3/9/2021 at 4:59 AM, 406flyer said:

I'd replace the exhaust manifold bolts before they break.  Get a kit at Napa and it takes a half hour or so.  Once they break it's a pain.  

My waterpump on my 6.0 started leaking around 100k.  It didn't go out, it started dripping from the weep hole.  I replaced the plugs at this time and they looked fine.  

I replaced the fuel pump assembly with a GM one around 120k for preventative.  Parts gal at the dealership I've used for decades said they don't go out like they did in the 90's.  

Great engine.  The valve deactivation is a bad deal for these engines though.  Roller lifters can rotate in and wipe out the camshaft.  Deactivate if you have it.  

Is the deactivate thing a doofus job or does it require a mechanic? 08 Yukon 131000 miles. Local NAPA or AutoZone have it?

Edited by Piney Woods
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Piney,

It has to be tuned out with a hand held tuner like a diablo like urrick15 mentions.   Or I think their are cheaper alternatives that plug into the obd port and stay there.  I have no idea what a dongle is.  Probably the plug in thing I was talking about.  

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