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Ben Hagle

KTM 500 EXC - SAME 2013 TO 2016?

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Can anybody help me figure out if the 2013 - 2016 models of the KTM 500 exc are the same machine?  As far as engine/ecu/emissions.

I own a 2013 and love the power plant.  The ECU has been remapped and smog removed.   I am looking to add another bike to the stable and have heard nothing but $$$ and head aches in order to get the newer models to run as well as the old ones.  Looking into buying a clean 2015 with low hours/miles. 

My bike rips and my fear is getting something that I can't have simply remapped - and being forced to spend 700 on a ECU.  

What do you guys now? 

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I'm new to the 500 and slowly learning so I'll grab my popcorn and wait for the more experienced to answer. 

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1 hour ago, Ben Hagle said:

Can anybody help me figure out if the 2013 - 2016 models of the KTM 500 exc are the same machine?  As far as engine/ecu/emissions.

I own a 2013 and love the power plant. 

What do you guys know? 

The difference between the 2013 and 2015 is improved lower rod bearing, improved braking front master(totally different lever configuration), different speedo, and some wiring changes, and also 8.9mm valve shims verses 10mm shims on the 2013. 2014 still has the 10mm shims. But since 2015 its 8.9mm shims to present models.

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3 hours ago, Spud786 said:

The difference between the 2013 and 2015 is improved lower rod bearing, improved braking front master(totally different lever configuration), different speedo, and some wiring changes, and also 8.9mm valve shims verses 10mm shims on the 2013. 2014 still has the 10mm shims. But since 2015 its 8.9mm shims to present models.

My 2014 uses 8.90mm shims.  The biggest thing I would care about is the updated lower rod bearing and I believe that happened in 2013. I think the 2013 and 2014 models are very similar.  The 2015 model got the orange frame and a different speedo unit but I believe is the same otherwise as the 14.  2016 got smaller diameter axles 22mm down from 26 and reduced triple clamp offset from 22mm down to 20 but otherwise is the same as the 2015 iirc.  I agree with the OP, I think the 2013-2016 bikes will go down as the ones to have!

Edited by PTECH
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8 hours ago, Ben Hagle said:

Can anybody help me figure out if the 2013 - 2016 models of the KTM 500 exc are the same machine?  As far as engine/ecu/emissions.

I own a 2013 and love the power plant.  The ECU has been remapped and smog removed.   I am looking to add another bike to the stable and have heard nothing but $$$ and head aches in order to get the newer models to run as well as the old ones.  Looking into buying a clean 2015 with low hours/miles. 

My bike rips and my fear is getting something that I can't have simply remapped - and being forced to spend 700 on a ECU.  

What do you guys now? 

Adding another 500?    Ok...  

I also ride an uncorked and de-smogged 2013.   I guess I could say mine rips too, although it grunts and pulls more based on how I ride it.   Its damn near flawless with the exception of the pesky keyswitch.     I know a guy with a 2015 and it sure as hell looks the same to me.  Same motor and everything else.   Same for the 2016.  Same motor.

How will you get it remapped.  They don't do that anymore.

 

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I luv the key switch, I did the key eliminator, testing out a failing key switch, and it sucked trying to do any electrical troubleshooting, cause the motor had to be running, for anything to turn on. Anyway the eliminator, did prove a flakey key switch, in which I was able to repair, back to perfection.

 

Ive been told ,the newest bikes, everything doesnt turn on with the key on(until motor is running), that sucks, and not sure why that is .  You buy any modern street legal bike, the electrical (all) turns on with the key, just like a modern automobile.

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8 hours ago, Just_a_trail_rider said:

Adding another 500?    Ok...  

I also ride an uncorked and de-smogged 2013.   I guess I could say mine rips too, although it grunts and pulls more based on how I ride it.   Its damn near flawless with the exception of the pesky keyswitch.     I know a guy with a 2015 and it sure as hell looks the same to me.  Same motor and everything else.   Same for the 2016.  Same motor.

How will you get it remapped.  They don't do that anymore.

 

I am trying to put together a bike for Baja this year.  I raced my 2013 this year and it worked great - but I need a bike to pre run on and a bike to race.  

After that I will be giving my current bike to my brother so we can ride.

Not wanting to spend 12k+ on a new model that has less/different power.  I am sort of in love with the way this bike runs with the EU map and stock pipe.  

I guess my only concern is spending the money on ECU and mapping then having to do an exhaust on the new bike to get it to be comparable to the older model power wise.  Could the chassis be that much better/lighter where the power isn't the biggest concern?  

 

I have a local guy in town who owns a shop who can do the mapping no problem - dyno tune it even.  

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Yes, the handling is better on the newer models.   I've only took a short ride on a 2017, but I could tell the difference if weight and feel.  It wasn't mine, so I only rode it for about 10 mins.  

That being said, I know I'm perfectly content with my 2013.  I have the KTM Powerparts pipe on mine with the euro map and an FMF quiet insert/sparky.   Mine runs great and always starts up.  I love the look of the newer ones, but I honestly can't see the bike when I'm riding it.   I know I'm not dropping 12K on a new bike until this one dies.

I would go with what you know.   You can't loose.

 

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Side note since you're headed to Baja (I'm jealous!); the newer bikes don't come with a kick starter, I've heard you can buy a kit from KTM and add one but haven't see it done yet.  Also none of them will run if the battery is damaged or dead-dead.  Won't kick start, won't push start, just won't run.  Low battery is fine, but completely dead or damaged battery and you're stuck.  You can see yourself, start the bike and remove either battery cable.  The fix is adding a capacitor; cheap and easy, but I'm guessing you'll want one way out there in Baja just-in-case.  PM me if you need one, I might be able to help.  

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If you race a new bike, you have to give serious consideration to suspension improvements. The XPLOR is not as good as the 2013 with just a spring change for weight. 

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23 minutes ago, Burnrider said:

If you race a new bike, you have to give serious consideration to suspension improvements. The XPLOR is not as good as the 2013 with just a spring change for weight. 

Oh I know that.  I had my stuff all re sprung re valved by the guys as ESP in Pasadena.  They did good work.  

Might try a different company this time - precision concepts.  

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17 hours ago, PTECH said:

My 2014 uses 8.90mm shims.  The biggest thing I would care about is the updated lower rod bearing and I believe that happened in 2013. I think the 2013 and 2014 models are very similar.  The 2015 model got the orange frame and a different speedo unit but I believe is the same otherwise as the 14.  2016 got smaller diameter axles 22mm down from 26 and reduced triple clamp offset from 22mm down to 20 but otherwise is the same as the 2015 iirc.  I agree with the OP, I think the 2013-2016 bikes will go down as the ones to have!

Thicker shims the better ?  Had over 100 hours on the thing when we decided to race it for baja and the valves were in spec.  Just put a new piston and clutch in it and raced it.  Thing ran for over 15 hours straight perfectly.  

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On 1/25/2019 at 1:53 PM, Ben Hagle said:

Thicker shims the better ?  Had over 100 hours on the thing when we decided to race it for baja and the valves were in spec.  Just put a new piston and clutch in it and raced it.  Thing ran for over 15 hours straight perfectly.  

I dont think theres any advantage to either size but I'm no engineer

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Ended up buying a 2015 with 30 hours on it.  

Getting torn apart and getting the baja pre runner treatment.  Post a pic later. 

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OLD GIRL AND THE NEW GIRL.  SHES TORN APART.  JUST GOT SUSPENSION BACK FROM PRECISION CONCEPTS.  GREASED SWING ARM PIVOT, MOUNTED REAR SHOCK.  NOW TIME TO FOR STEERING BEARING TO BE GREASED AND MOUNT FORKS.  

GOING TO RUN A BRP SUB MOUNT WITH A SCOTTS DAMPER.  

BUILD SPEC:  

IMS 3.1 GAL TANK, PRO TAPER STEERING DAMPER LOW BAR, GOLEN TYRE COMBO WITH MOUSSE, 15/48 RENTHAL, NEW DID CHAIN, VORTEX, SMOG MOD, FMF 4.1 ALUMINUM EXHAUST, TMD CHAIN SLIDER/GUIDE, CYCRA HAND GUARDS, SICASS SWITCHES AND CONTROLS, SICASS BLINKER AND UNDER FENDER KIT.   SEAT CONCEPTS KTM BRANDED COMFORT SEAT CAME WITH IT.  TANK IS FITTED WITH DRY BREAK MOUNT FOR THE FUTURE.  

TO COME IS A MOTO MINDED/BAJA DESIGNS XL 80 KIT WITH THEIR TOUGH BRACKET AND COOL DASH.  

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ OUCH

57171338860__471F0DBA-64D6-4A40-8640-4595D746347B.thumb.JPG.f8345f888683a42c3ff40bd181f6e731.JPG57223187057__4D4866AA-7BB4-48EE-9D62-DE4E1F057B01.thumb.JPG.dc1133f52b207ff4455b69077f4dc741.JPG

Edited by Ben Hagle
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On 2/18/2019 at 6:33 PM, Ben Hagle said:

Ended up buying a 2015 with 30 hours on it.  

Getting torn apart and getting the baja pre runner treatment.  Post a pic later. 

Congrats, i have a 2015 as well i purchased 5 weeks ago and its awesome.  What did you end up buying it for if you don't mind me asking?  My motor is bone stock minus end cap/debaffle, and just have dirt and Sm wheels.  Wish i had the black dirt wheels like on the 2016.  Debating powdercoating them as I don't plan on riding it super aggressive in the dirt, just fire trails and some short back roads.

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37 minutes ago, xtremsiege2 said:

Congrats, i have a 2015 as well i purchased 5 weeks ago and its awesome.  What did you end up buying it for if you don't mind me asking?  My motor is bone stock minus end cap/debaffle, and just have dirt and Sm wheels.  Wish i had the black dirt wheels like on the 2016.  Debating powdercoating them as I don't plan on riding it super aggressive in the dirt, just fire trails and some short back roads.

7500$,  Came with some extras like that seat and a full sicass under fender and blinker kit.

Could have ground him down but the bike had such low hours and visibly wasn't ridden very hard.  Excited for a fresh bike and an un-beaten frame  haa.  

 

Anyone know how to get that rattle out of the FMF pipe with the spark arrestor inserted?  Its like the fit isnt precise enough and when its revved you can hear a rattle.   Almost regret buying the fmf because its so loud with it wide open.   

 

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