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timbanditos

Searching for 50, need some advice!

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8 hours ago, timbanditos said:
20 hours ago, rustyrodknocker said:



I bought one of the $25 amazon carbs for my trail 90 because it was cheaper and a time savings vs rebuilding. Its at least as nice as the keihn. Between my nephew me and my father in law who was buying some $13 carbs on ebay.



We have real good luck with them. You have to watch carefully for which one you need and measure the bore and flange  There are a ton of them. On one I was sure I had the smallest one ever made, so I ordered the smallest size. Nope! It was way smaller!



I hate to replace stuff that's perfectly fixable but I have so many other projects that are more important to me time wise, that the dirt bikes are low priority. I just want be able to ride them not relish in rebuilding parts.

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Do you recall the brand by chance? I'm definitely interested in the cheaper options as that stock pilot jet sucks.

There is no markings on it. But I looked online and the PZ triggers a memory. it was to long ago to be in my purchase history. I says buy one with solid reviews and roll with it. I just put a new clutch in the trail 90 because it would slip and you could not get enough rotation to start on the kicker. I was push starting it but it slipped on the top end. After a year of sitting, flip the choke and it fires up on one stroke of the kicker by hand. They are probably made by suppliers for kymco. They put out some good stuff. Their all kehin knock offs 

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I just googled crf50 carburator and there is one for $11.88 on amazon that has 70 five star reviews. Seen another for $19 something with similar reviews. 

I filtered the positives and negatives. Most of the negatives were morons. Most complaints were flooding out the overflow. None of the posters seemed competent enough to verify float setting and needle seal.

 

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Well, I got around to installing new grips and removing, cleaning and reinstalling the petcock. Just wanted the piece of mind that the new carb won't get clogged with dirt once it arrives.

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Just looks like surface rust. I'd just clean it up with some steel wool or scotch brite pad.

Be sure to replace the rubber band to protect the tube. It'll probably stretch pretty bad when you take it off since it's old so I'd get new ones. Or you can just use electrical tape. 

And I would use dish soap over wd-40. Not that wd-40 is bad, but the soap won't leave oily residue 

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See there is a perfect example of why I dont like kids. This is what happens when you have to ride through every last puddle. It makes me cringe to think about what my nephews wheels look like on the inside. The horror.

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Previous owners kid.....I won't let my kids get any dirt on their dirtbike!

See there is a perfect example of why I dont like kids. This is what happens when you have to ride through every last puddle. It makes me cringe to think about what my nephews wheels look like on the inside. The horror.
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15 hours ago, rustyrodknocker said:

See there is a perfect example of why I dont like kids. This is what happens when you have to ride through every last puddle. It makes me cringe to think about what my nephews wheels look like on the inside. The horror.

Puddles or not, moisture can occur anywhere. The inside of a spoked wheel that's not completely air tight is no exception.

Hell, unless you're using an air compressor with a dryer that's 100% effective, you're introducing moisture into the tube. Then when a leak occurs in the tube, it's introduced to the inside of the wheel. 

43 minutes ago, timbanditos said:

Previous owners kid.....I won't let my kids get any dirt on their dirtbike!

I see some dust, you better wipe it :p

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Surprisingly, there's only like 2 crf50's in the OKC area in Craigslist. Usually there's at least half a dozen and usually between $600-800. 
We bought our '05 crf50 in '15 for $700. I had to replace a super worn chain and chain adjuster and air filter. Had trouble keeping it running right, found it was a super clogged petcock. Otherwise, perfect bike. 
The crf50's OEM parts are really actually cheaply priced, so if you have to replace parts you won't have to break the bank getting them. 
We put the cheap $20 plastics from Amazon on it to make it look fresh and clean. The plastics are rather thin and flimsy. The front fender I ended up having to put extra washers on the bolts to take up the gap because the fender isn't made like OEM when it comes to the bolt holes. The tank shrouds were a little tough to mount and they stick out and down further than OEM, making it difficult to get to the petcock. It's gonna be around $200 for OEM plastics, but i'm about to order all new so I can put on this sweet graphics kit we got for it (cut for OEM plastics) so I'd rather not waste them on cheapie crap. 
A friend of mine bought a pw50 for his boys and sold it within no time to find a kdx50 or jr50. He said the yamaha would take off and wasn't able to restrict top speed for his younger boy. He wanted to change gearing, but it's shaft drive. The other bikes are chain and sprockets, so you could change it up. That's something to consider.
The crf50 starts super easy and reliable. I like that it has 3 speeds, that gets them used to shifting gears and knowing when to do it, and brings them that much closer to being ready to use a clutch when it's time for a bigger bike.

There’s a screw on the pw50 throttle mount that you can wind in and out to restrict the speed

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2 minutes ago, Jamie postlethwaite said:


There’s a screw on the pw50 throttle mount that you can wind in and out to restrict the speed

Yes i'm aware, I have one on ours. It never seemed to make much of a difference 

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I'm really not concerned with whether it works. It hasn't been touched in almost 2 years. The 12 year old has moved on to other things, and by the time my 2 year old is ready for the bike, he'll have been riding a pw50 or jr50 for a while and won't need the throttle stop

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