Jump to content

Left hand rear brake/slipper clutch

Recommended Posts

2 hours ago, jrhonda said:

CLAKE makes some dual leavers but they are really pricey

Yeah, it is a custom dual reservoir setup with trick levers. Costs at least $1000. I'd try one if it was say $300, but that is just too pricey for my budget.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've got a Rekluse LHRB and its great.  Very modulatable and actually takes a bit of effort to lock up the rear wheel, which I like cause makes it more difficult to do by accident.

However the price of the Rekluse has driven me to make my own.  Benefits of having a machine shop in my garage.  On another site I found the make/model of the Mtn bike master cylinder/lever that Rekluse either uses or copied for theirs.  A complete system can be had for ca. $50 usd.  All that needs to be made is the master cylinder insert, which is pretty simple to make.  Shouldn't take more than an hours work to save myself $350 usd.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, CDNSXV said:

IHowever the price of the Rekluse has driven me to make my own.  Benefits of having a machine shop in my garage.  On another site I found the make/model of the Mtn bike master cylinder/lever that Rekluse either uses or copied for theirs.  A complete system can be had for ca. $50 usd.  All that needs to be made is the master cylinder insert, which is pretty simple to make.  Shouldn't take more than an hours work to save myself $350 usd.

I envy you, wish I had that capability. I'd recommend the Smokn Stage 2 over the Rekluse for those of us that don't have a machine shop in the garage....(but am working towards just that...)

One little tidbit: Smokn now includes a "teflon" wafer as opposed to the rubber O ring that seals the rear master cylinder. Didn't work with my last bike that I tried to use it on. Fortunately I had one of Rekluse's O rings and it worked perfectly. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I looked at those Smokn brakes but they aren't much cheaper than the Rekluse unit.  At least they admit where the master cylinder comes from.

The pics from the Smokn website shows they have added two pieces to the system in order to allow them to use a steel braided line with odd direct screw on end fittings.  Personally I don't see any reason not to use the Mtn bike hydraulic line and the standard fittings, which are simpler.

It was a few years back that I installed my Rekluse.  From this pic, it looks like the O-ring sits on the tip of the master cylinder conversion tube and probably seats on the sides and bottom of the master cylinder reservoir.

FWIW O-rings are pretty easy to come by in a zillion different sizes.  There are charts of different sizes and dimensions.  Should have been fairly easy to find the right one for your needs.

Yes, you are correct, having a decent lathe and mill complete with DROs is very nice for making misc bike parts.  😎

Screen Shot 2019-02-05 at 7.55.33 PM.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a slipper on my dirt 450,  made the change from a 2 stroke a lot easier on a bike that had tonnnnnsss of compression braking.

Its an adige aptc, its different from others like a stm or hinson btl,  it uses a two piece pressure plate one is manual the other has a helical spline interface with the inner hub, under torque it locks the clutch, under back torque it forces the clutch open,  its in no way automatic, as soon as you break torque with the manual hub the mobil hub quits locking,  the side effect of it all is super tiny clutch springs and a really light pull, and asjustable engine braking (with some spring preload spacers.

Love it.

Have no idea what the relation to a lhrb is though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The LHRB is one of my all-time top bike add-ons I have the Smokn one. What I do not like is all the problems I've had with it, bleeding it and keeping the air out of the system is a BITCH! and a 1/2, over time it becomes spongy and looses its braking power. I have put a lot of time, effort, and money trying to get it working better and changed pistons/kit on both ends of the brake system I also put a new rear master cylinder on my bike and it still is not right.  I have spent so much time on trying to get this thing working consistently, many times I have been tempted to just take it off, but I don't because I really do like it. I've even considered changing all the brake lines but I have never seen any indication of leaking from any of the fittings? SO go figure. I've contacted Allen at Smokin several times, he's very helpful so that's a big plus.  Last time I rode the bike it had already seemed like it was not as strong as it was the last time I worked on it. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Weird.  

I have the Rekluse and while it has a certain "spongy" quality to it, I have bled the thing like twice in the last 4 years since I installed it.  I'm actually feeling bad for not yet having changed the fluid so I am gonna do this this spring.  Which will also give me an opportunity to open it up and measure the insert.

The one thing you have not changed out, is also the least expensive part and that is the lever and master cylinder itself.  If those seals were not good then it could end up spongy and loose braking effectiveness.   That m/c is also cheap.  I'd get another one and try that.

 

As to the effectiveness of the LHRB while riding, of all the mods and upgrades I have on my bikes, the handbrake is the last one I'd remove.  I'm actually at the point where I wouldn't want to ride a bike without one.  They are THAT good.

  • Helpful 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Would love to try a LHRB but, if I'm going to do it, I want one that eliminates the OEM master cylinder completely. Just give me a line all the way from the bars to the rear caliper. It would be simpler and less prone to issues. Anybody offer a system like that or do I have to build it myself?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, CDNSXV said:

 Personally I don't see any reason not to use the Mtn bike hydraulic line and the standard fittings, which are simpler.

 

Am wondering if you are referring to the (Talking the original Rekluse Hayes set up) where they use mtn bike hydraulic tubing with the barb that fits into the brake lever master? If so, that connection (for me) came apart several times. The braided threaded set up is far superior, well worth the cost IMO.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, SS109 said:

Would love to try a LHRB but, if I'm going to do it, I want one that eliminates the OEM master cylinder completely. Just give me a line all the way from the bars to the rear caliper. It would be simpler and less prone to issues. Anybody offer a system like that or do I have to build it myself?

I take it you want to eliminate the rear brake pedal? If so that's cool, but don't understand why...

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 minutes ago, dyrtmon said:

I take it you want to eliminate the rear brake pedal? If so that's cool, but don't understand why...

Yes, why not? It would be one less thing to worry about and one less thing to potentially get snagged on something.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 minutes ago, SS109 said:

Yes, why not? It would be one less thing to worry about and one less thing to potentially get snagged on something.

2 things from my experience - especially if you have a Rekluse.

1. If you're on a slope and you need to (for example) read a map using both hands a brake pedal comes in real handy. 

2. If your hand lever fails the foot brake will still work.

My experience, yours may differ..

  • Like 1
  • Helpful 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Would love to try a LHRB but, if I'm going to do it, I want one that eliminates the OEM master cylinder completely. Just give me a line all the way from the bars to the rear caliper. It would be simpler and less prone to issues. Anybody offer a system like that or do I have to build it myself?

CLAKE have a system like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
50 minutes ago, dyrtmon said:

2 things from my experience - especially if you have a Rekluse.

1. If you're on a slope and you need to (for example) read a map using both hands a brake pedal comes in real handy. 

2. If your hand lever fails the foot brake will still work.

My experience, yours may differ..

Honestly hadn't thought of those situations. However, #1 is not going to be an issue for me. Plus, I can make a push pin lock for the lever if I ever felt the need down the road. #2 makes sense if it's just a lever failing. I literally have never broken a lever but there is always the chance I might. I guess it's like most things, there's always trade offs!

40 minutes ago, jrhonda said:


CLAKE have a system like this

Personally don't like the Clake system (tried a buddy's bike that had it). It looked trick but he had issues with it (seen lots of similar reports) and the cost is just stupid high.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey guys, how do you fill and bleed those masters that have the resivoir sideways? Do you have to lay the bike down/tak the bars off or the lever? That looks like a PITA I cannot see a reason to of done it like that.

I agree, a MTB hydro system is a good sized add-on to operate a clutch and worlds cheaper than some of the rigs out there. Bars be gettin' busy!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I get why a LHRB would be a plus, and why a slipper clutch would be a plus also, but not necessarily in combination. A slipper clutch does not disconnect the clutch from the engine when the engine is in a no-load (idle) condition. So what would happen if you had a slipper clutch, but with a LHRB to momentarily lock up the rear wheel in order to back into a right hand corner with your right foot down?  Locking up the rear wheel would necessitate pulling in the clutch lever to prevent a stall. How can this be done with your left hand already working the rear brake?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Some ATVs have dual lever perches but all of the one I've seen were cable. The Rekluse LHRB uses a modified mtn Bike radial master cylinder that doesn't take a lot of room on the bars.   I tried a cable operated LHRB and it didn't work well.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, dyrtmon said:

2 things from my experience - especially if you have a Rekluse.

1. If you're on a slope and you need to (for example) read a map using both hands a brake pedal comes in real handy. 

2. If your hand lever fails the foot brake will still work.

I have found that if you have to wait on a hill ... like for someone stuck ahead of you, the foot pedal is way nicer to use than having to hold the lever the whole time.  I don't use the pedal very often but I wouldn't get rid of it.

  • Like 1
  • Helpful 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, William1 said:

Hey guys, how do you fill and bleed those masters that have the resivoir sideways? Do you have to lay the bike down/tak the bars off or the lever? That looks like a PITA I cannot see a reason to of done it like that.

I agree, a MTB hydro system is a good sized add-on to operate a clutch and worlds cheaper than some of the rigs out there. Bars be gettin' busy!

I had no problems bleeding the Rekluse LHRB on my CRF250X; Rekluse provides fittings and instructions to help bleeding. I had bleeding problems with the install on my XR and ended up removing the entire system from the rear caliper to the handlebars and setting it up at my work bench with the LHRB at about 6 feet on a shelf and the caliper at the ground. Then back bleed it and reinstalled on the bike.  I think the problem was the location  of the banjo fitting on the caliper was too low relative to the caliper piston when installed on the bike. My quick and easy back bleed is to extend the caliper piston by removing one pad, then completely filling the caliper with fluid, twist to remove air bubble, connect the banjo fitting, and then pry the piston back into the caliper. Watch the reservoir for overflow.

The Rekluse is a good system and easy to install. :thumbsup:

Handle bar room can be a problem; My bars have 3/4" removed from each side for bark busters so even less room than stock.  I ride PNW woods and I'm accustomed to threading 36" wide bars between trees and bark busters add 3/4" width at each end.  :banghead:  My X is plated so also a headlite sw on the left bars and my solution was to mount the kill button onto the LHRB bar clamp since it was closer to the grip than the clutch perch.

Ideal solution would be a compound MC for clutch and LHRB.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On February 5, 2019 at 9:42 PM, SS109 said:

Would love to try a LHRB but, if I'm going to do it, I want one that eliminates the OEM master cylinder completely. Just give me a line all the way from the bars to the rear caliper. It would be simpler and less prone to issues. Anybody offer a system like that or do I have to build it myself?

 

What I've done with all my dirt bikes since 2002 is to convert the stock clutch master cylinder to a LHRB by connecting it directly to the rear brake caliper.  Very easy to do and very efficient.  On my '16 Beta 300RR I added a Clake SLR for the clutch override.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:


×