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Rear Tire Help Needed

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I’ve been satisfied with the pirelli xcmh dot tires on my 500. Traction is good here in az desert hard pack conditions except in the sand. In the sand imo it’s worse than the stock maxxis or the metzlers I also tried. I’m pushing 600+ miles of 80/20 riding on these pirellis and there is ample tread on the rear and the front looks like it’s only got 100 miles. I figure I can go at least another 100 miles before I replace the rear. They were almost good enough for me try buy another set but at the last minute I decided to try the Michelin ac10. I think it’s a crap shoot mostly. We’re asking for a tire to last on the asphalt and hook up like a gummy tire. 

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You need mich AC 10. Have used 4 different sets. By far AC 10s are the best , nobbie DOT tires

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4 minutes ago, EARLEYAW said:

You need mich AC 10. Have used 4 different sets. By far AC 10s are the best , nobbie DOT tires

I hated that tire. I can't overstate it enough. 

Sure, tires are subjective.... but it would be good to see what other tires folks have tried when they make recommendations. Sure, the MT21 or the AC10 might be the best tire if you've only tried Trackmaster IIs or the stock Contis. :)

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10 hours ago, Jeff aka Bolt said:

Mountain Hybrid Extreme was an improvement on the Mountain Hybrid.  They should have dropped the Mountain Hybrid with the introduction of the Extreme.  I stock most of the Motoz line but those.  it surprises me that you have a GT333 sitting in the garage while cruising the mountain trails.  The GT333 can crawl through things the Motoz HE could only dream of doing.  It is however a very high mileage tire.  But with iron like tires that get extreme mileage rarely comes superior traction.  It's a good tire...  but I'd never pick it over the GT333 to hit the hills.  Have you ever taken your Goldentyres to them there hills ?

An no the ribs on the Motoz make it very difficult to seal with the Tubliss.  

IMHO :cheers:

I like the Moto Z for Big Bear because we wind up doing lots of slab ridding over the weekend as well. Hate to tear up my GT333 on the pavement.

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Hooks pretty good... wears fast...  Destroy it on pavement or Utah.

I thought I’d try it. My friend just got one and really liked it. I ride primarily single track. It’s a mix of dirt, clay, rocks, roots, and sometimes mud. Missouri soil lol

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On 2/5/2019 at 8:13 AM, woods-rider said:

On hard terrain, yes, the wider footprint is great, but on most other off-road terrain, its the tire conforming to the shape of the ground that is the main benefit of running low pressure and soft compounds. I have been running tubliss for almost a decade now and have switched over to "gummy" rear tires within the last two years and they are awesome for winter riding, no argument here.

I'm in Oregon too, what rear tire you running these days?  I'm on a GT333 which works well but would like to try something else once it wears out.  I use a tubliss in the back but bit the bullet and put in a Bib up front....

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21 hours ago, WhatWouldJasonDo said:

 


Thank You! And it’s 25% less than the Goldentyre

 

Don't let anybody tell you that you don't get the most out of your tires!  Run what works for ya.  I think it's more important to be familiar with a tire and it's performance than have the highest tech, newest tire even if it's technically higher performing...it could take a long time to figure out it's ride characteristics...

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17 hours ago, Jeff aka Bolt said:

Some people would be liars. :lol:

+1.  I did a bunch of research on this and from everything I learned, Jeff is spot on.  They are a similar design, but the compounds and construction is different.

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On 2/5/2019 at 8:10 AM, woods-rider said:

In some conditions, yes, but not in all. A wider tire will keep the tire more on top of the ground and less likely to sink in a bit. This is good in super soft terrain (where you can sink too far), and hard terrain (since you don't sink into that regardless). But in an intermediate terrain, I think a 120 in the same tread pattern actually has more traction than a 140. To each their own though.

Agreed.  No such thing as a free lunch!  The narrower tires dig down a bit better in my experience too.  Muddy narrow tracks and intermediate terrain they tend to dig and bite, the wider tires seem to hunt around and slip a bit more in the same terrain.  Same for the front.  I do like the wider / fatties for rocks though.

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I'm in Oregon too, what rear tire you running these days?  I'm on a GT333 which works well but would like to try something else once it wears out.  I use a tubliss in the back but bit the bullet and put in a Bib up front....


For winter coast range single track, I am loving the Shinko 525 cheater. It’s a gummy tire and is awesome as long as the speeds are 3rd gear and below. Gets a bit squirrelly at higher speeds.

For summer when it’s more hard pack, I like the Sedona 907.
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Been using a 216 shinko fatty up front. I have not had any knobs chunk but have only been in soft terrain. Two of my ridding buddies have had their 216 chunk but only after riding in very rocky Naches terrain. For the rear I have always liked the M5B in the winter PNW and am trying the EVO out now in a 140/80-18 on my TX300 with tubliss. 7-8 psi front and 3.5psi rear :) Love the rear M5B EVO even better then the old M5B.

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15 hours ago, Oregon Comrade said:

Agreed.  No such thing as a free lunch!  The narrower tires dig down a bit better in my experience too.  Muddy narrow tracks and intermediate terrain they tend to dig and bite, the wider tires seem to hunt around and slip a bit more in the same terrain.  Same for the front.  I do like the wider / fatties for rocks though.

A wider tire on the same 2.15 rim will stand up more than the smaller tire...  giving you a longer front to back contact patch... in the end you increase the patch in all directions with a larger 120/100 over a 110/100.  But it's the increase in front to back contact that propels you forward better.  For 30+ years I thought wider was better because it was wider...  but I've met some smart tire makers the past few years that started teaching me a few things.  :cheers:

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4 hours ago, Jeff aka Bolt said:

A wider tire on the same 2.15 rim will stand up more than the smaller tire...  giving you a longer front to back contact patch... in the end you increase the patch in all directions with a larger 120/100 over a 110/100.  But it's the increase in front to back contact that propels you forward better.  For 30+ years I thought wider was better because it was wider...  but I've met some smart tire makers the past few years that started teaching me a few things.  :cheers:

Good point!  Same principle with tall narrow tires on 4x4's vs wider shorter tires, the tall tire actually has a bigger footprint due to the length of the footprint, to your point....

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IRC M5B 130 or 140  

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I've posted this before, but here is a GT333 in 120. Pretty fat, if you ask me.
i-FGF42s6-X2.jpg&key=e540e9714bc130915b56a43bffa5f3f6c0a39d0e590c6f58e2555300e791b070
i-rGqhsbZ-X2.jpg&key=cdc07295dd3b59cf54e28c97d81f899fded6a38f85167ae635f18ce4a1655b7d


How do these handle on the road? And might as well ask, how do they last??
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2 hours ago, Ralph450r said:

 


How do these handle on the road? And might as well ask, how do they last??

I try to avoid asphalt with them, but the few miles I rode, they felt totally fine. I can't comment on life, though, I only have about 8 hours on them so far. :(

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On 2/5/2019 at 6:49 PM, Jeff aka Bolt said:

Sexy tire porn.  :worthy:

MC360 is two very different tires...  Yours is Mid Hard Terrain. The better traction tire is the MC360 Mid Soft Terrain... But not gonna last on pavement.  Important to note.

Fellas if you are bargain tire guys stay away from gummies...  Its a waste of money and a fast wearing option for most. Its all the buzz right now... But buy a quality tire over a cheap gummie tire thats just a scam. Everyone is selling a gummie.  You need quality rubber and well crafted carcass design.  Making a cheap tire soft with twisty knobs is easy.  Making a great tire thats compliant and works well is not about twisty knobs.  Far more to it.

My work is done here for now...  but if you need more hit me in a pm...  Happy to help since Horge drug me in here.  :cheers:

Being he mentioned hard pack dirt and rocks the Mid Soft actually is the worse tire.   I run the MC360's and the MH is much better for PNW conditions (I emailed Metzler directly about this subject because I almost bough the Mid-Soft until talking to both Metzler and local dealers).  The MS version is much better for sand/mud etc. the lugs are too far apart and don't dig down near as well on hard pack/single track/gravel trails.

Edited by pnw_obrigade

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5 hours ago, Ralph450r said:

 


How do these handle on the road? And might as well ask, how do they last??

 

I have half destroyed a GT333 on a 3 hour fast paced ride thru Mountain Roads. 

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5 hours ago, Ralph450r said:

How do these handle on the road? And might as well ask, how do they last??

Its a racing tire that is DOT.  It is not a 50/50 dual sport tire. Handles great...  lasting on pavement not bad...  but not what it was designed for.

Count on excellent performance with good life...  will get you through Baja, Big Bear, Sierras or D37. 

It is compliant and has great hook up.  But an iron like Desert IT it is not.  :cheers:

Edited by Jeff aka Bolt

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23 minutes ago, Ken S said:

I have half destroyed a GT333 on a 3 hour fast paced ride thru Mountain Roads. 

3 hours on the road...  It is a dirt bike tire. :smirk:

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