"When I'm looking to buy a used bike and I see ____, I get out of there!"

[jtanman]

I've noticed that when I go to look at a used bike, there are sometimes immediate red flags that make me want to turn and run. Not always because the item in question is bad all by itself, but that it indicates poor basic care for the bike.  A few on my list are broken levers, extremely pointy sprocket teeth, coolant that isn't filled to the tip-top, JB weld, or (and this is personally my biggest pet peeve), the bike is downright filthy and doesn't seem to have been washed in weeks.

What are the big red flags for you guys? I could always use more tips for dead giveaway signs that a bike is not worth messing with.

 

 

[CRF2eR]

If I see a paddle tire, meaning it's been used in the sand, I don't touch it...

[03mxz]

I look around at the sellers garage , cars, and their house, if the garage is a mess and their cars are trashed and their house is a dump then you know they didn’t take care of their bikes either. Oh yeah you’re correct bent or broken levers drive me crazy too. It seems every bike for sale on line has levers that are wrapped in a complete circle. Oh and my favorite is when they tell you how many hours are on a bike that’s never had an hour meter on it.

 

[ss-racing66]

"never raced" ?     (...as if a well cared for racebike is less desirable than someone's neglected trail trash.) 

 

 

 

 

[76xtdrvr]

So many.  Tires that have rounded, worn knobs, but look brand new because the owner just treated them with tire shine. These bikes usually have rusted, worn out chains and a dirty air filter and air box. 

[Redrodent]

Missing hardware or a hodge podge of fasteners

Edited February 15, 2019 by Redrodent

[kxlubber]

If the coolants all the way to the “tip-top” then there’s no room for it to expand. If I saw that it was tip-top I’d be suspicious of a problem that cause them to add coolant before you showed up

[crypto666]

If they warmed the bike up just before you got there, it means it is hard to start cold and probably needs a valve job. 

If they say it has a new bottom end, it probably needs a new bottom end.  

If they say the valves are good, the valves are not good.  

Check the oil.

If they say it was never raced, they probably mean it hasn't been maintained.  

If it has a K&N air filter, there's your sign to run.  

[jtanman]

8 minutes ago, kxlubber said:

If the coolants all the way to the “tip-top” then there’s no room for it to expand. If I saw that it was tip-top I’d be suspicious of a problem that cause them to add coolant before you showed up

 

Okay, sure, by tip-top I mean within a half inch or so [emoji23]. I’m really just concerned when the level is below the top of the radiator fins.

 

Edited February 15, 2019 by jtanman

[kxlubber]

I do like to see a clean garage.

[Rockinar]

Factory metric bolts replaced with bolts and washers from Home Depot. 99% of the time those are stripped because the thread count are different. 

Any time they said they did work on it that means the work they did will not be done right and you have to go back and fix it.

If they say it has a fresh top end, that means you will need to redo it. 

If they say it just had a fresh rebuild, that means you will need to do a total rebuild and check their work.

 

If it has Monster Energy stickers, spoke skins or polished frame, it's owned by a teen who does not have to money, skills or tools needed for proper maintenance. 

 

 

Edited February 16, 2019 by Rockinar

[Dirtbug26]

Stickers and numbers are a bad sign, and  I run away if I see polished or painted frames or cases.

[crider400]

Every once in a while I see a bike for sale with a missing front fork plastic, or missing case saver that drives me nuts and sometimes I look at a bike and it is greasy near the oil drain and if I can not tell if dirt is covering a crack, I walk. I don't see to many people putting black plastics on roached out bikes as I used to (no pic and local on craigslist) What makes me walk is when I hear they just bought it less than a month ago, come up with something about why they are selling it fast and the pink slip is not in there name ?

[03mxz]

Before I even go look at a bike the first question I always ask is “do you have the title?” If they say no (which is 90% of the time) I simply say thanks for your time and have a great day.

[William1]

I never buy used but... I crack up t the ADs when it says 'Rebuilt engine, just needs a spark plug to run'. Or you sit on the bike and the bars/fork are twisted. Or the AD says 'Just sanded the valve shims (works every time I do it) and starts third kick....'

The shame is, many buyers of cheap, used bikes are too excited to use a critical eye. These guys are the ones that come to TT and say 'New to me bike with a rebuilt engine makes a noise.....' When they finally post pictures, it is a roached out bike not worth parting out.

[Tahoe Gator]

If they warmed the bike up just before you got there, it means it is hard to start cold and probably needs a valve job.   

I hear you, but this might be situation dependent. Just bought a 2016 KX100 for my son. Show up and the seller (16 years old) says he’s warmed it up so it’s ready to test ride. Hmmm. Well, it’s a cold day! And 2-strokes need warming up. Anyway, warmed up, one kick and it fires right up. Test ride, good. Bike looks good. Kid seems legit. We buy and take home. Next time to start up it’s equally cold out and the bike is as cold as the air. First kick, fires right up. Size up the seller.

[Tahoe Gator]

I’ve only bought 8 used bikes in my life. Some things I know now would have saved me trouble later...

 

> Trueness of wheels. On a stand or using kickstand, spin the wheels. Way out of true = trouble.

 

> Trouble starting from cold. “It’s just been awhile since I’ve started it” = you will have trouble starting it.

 

> Chain slack out of adjustment range. That’s about the most frequent adjustment needed. If that’s not attended to, not much else is.

 

> Overly stretched chain. Ditto.

 

> Dirty in places a pressure washer doesn’t clean, for obvious reasons.

 

> When I ask “What premix oil do you use?” or “What premix ratio do you run?” and don’t get a concise answer.

 

> When I don’t buy the answer to the question: “Why are you selling it?”

 

 

 

[morphrider]

"Clear title" 

Then when I ask to see it, its in another persons name...from another state. "I can go back to house and get the bill of sale" ya right.

We dealt with that last weekend. Walked and left it for someone else.

[Tahoe Gator]

"Clear title" 
Then when I ask to see it, its in another persons name...from another state. "I can go back to house and get the bill of sale" ya right.
We dealt with that last weekend. Walked and left it for someone else.

Also depends though, right? You want a title a lot more on a 2018 WR450 than you do a 2004 TTR50. I have two Z50R bikes that are like 99 and 2001 and no way did I expect those to come with titles.

[400yzturbo]

   After reading the reply’s for walking away from a deal, I’ve decided to input my two cents.

  Not every deal needs to be walked away from.  When you see something you don’t like, you just need to re-negotiate.   In reading half the entries to this topic it sounds like a lot of people  would walk away from a brand new bike.  

If your expectations are that of a new bike, stop looking at buying used and just stop by the dealer and buy a new bike.

I buy a lot of bikes and I expect the bikes to be used and needing some repair or I’m prepared to pay a premium price.

Now to some of the signs I dislike.

1) Individuals that will not negotiate when you find issues.

2) When you ask them how the bike runs and they start it up and rev it until it is bouncing of the rev limiter.  That just goes to show how they have been riding it.

3) When you ask about oil/ gas ratio and they say they mix at 60:1-100:1.  At that point I still don’t walk away, I just plan on an engine build and I figure it into my offer. 

4) paddle tires.  I don’t just walk away.  I just pay closer attention to the wear areas and then figure my offer accordingly.

5) owners appearance and demeanor and knowledge. That will give you a good idea if he knows what he’s talking about.  That goes along with his willingness to deal or if he’s unwilling to budge on price.  Garage appearance can play a factor in this, but you also have to weight in what all projects you see happening in a garage when you see it.  Sometimes they have a lot going on with little room.

6) Title.  No title, generally no deal.  At that point I tell the owner if he can get it I’m interested, if not I’ll keep looking.

These are most of the items at the top of my list that are issues; but not all.

With any bike, I look it over close, figure out what I’m willing to pay for the bike taking into account what needs fixed and then negotiate from there.

Everyone has their own opinion as to what they want and are willing to pay for.  

Skill level with repairs and desire to fix things has a lot to do with your choice to walk away from a bike

If you expect peefection then you  should skip used bikes and just buy new.

If you like riding, fixing and building your bike to be yours, then you may just have to deal with fixing a few things that you find with buying used bikes.