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Maximus83

Headlight wiring question - Tusk Enduro light kit

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This seems like an easy one but I’m not great with wiring. I have a Tusk dual sport wiring kit with their headlight switch (off,low,high). The wiring harness has a blue wire for high beam and white for low. I want the low switch to turn one light on, and high to turn on a second light while keeping the first one on too. Right now when I go from low to high the light on the low beam shuts off. Any thought? look at the pics as I’m not working with the stock headlight.

 

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Is your stator powerful enough to power both lights at the same time?

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I might be better off keeping only one light on at a time. I actually have three total: the center two lights behind the cage that are running on dc from the battery via the tusk kit @ 14w and are always on if the on/off switch is “on”, the two outer lights are the “low” @ 20w total, and the “high” is the upper light pod @ 42w for a total of 72w. That’s probably a bit much for the 100w stator don’t ya think?

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You can feed the low beam from the high beam using a diode.   So when on high-beam the low beam hot wire receives +12 from the high beam hot wire via the diode, switched to low beam the diode blocks +12v from high beam.

You need to make sure the switch and wiring for the high beam can handle the power requirements of both lights.

Relay works as well, just differently.

That said you may end up drawing too much, seems like you should have 'enough' lighting without hi+low 😉

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Did you see the reviews?  Zoinks..   Usually relays have a schematic printed on them, so you know how they're internally setup can't see one on that so no clue. 

It would help to know exactly what switches you have and the schematic for each switch.  How this is wired will depend on that.

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24 minutes ago, braindead0 said:

Did you see the reviews?  Zoinks..   Usually relays have a schematic printed on them, so you know how they're internally setup can't see one on that so no clue. 

It would help to know exactly what switches you have and the schematic for each switch.  How this is wired will depend on that.

I strongly suspect the people that installed the relays in the reviews had no idea what they were doing, no fuses either. Though true, you buy a cheap $13 part, do not be surprised you got a $13 part....

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It’s a pretty standard relay from any auto parts store. I was just using that as an example and yeah, the people who left those reviews probably had no idea what they were doing (like I’m trying to avoid).

 

Here’s another with the diagram.

 

http:// Motoparty 3 way Hight Low Beam Lights Headlight Relay Mod For Polaris Sportsman 90 300 355 400 450 500 550 570 600 700 800 850 Explorer Relay https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JNH54PM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CyNICb20XXX80

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Without details about current wiring, here's how I'd do it..  2 single pole single throw relays.  One to control all power to the lights (I'd recommend running +/- wires directly from battery to the main relay) second relay controls high beams.  One switch turns on first relay powering lighting circuit, second switch powers high beam relay to supply power to the high beam(s).

 

Diagram1.png

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Drawing diagrams is like math to me. This may be of no help but I have a universal on/off switch that powers the universal dual sport wiring harness and universal lights/horn/signals switch on the bars. When the on/off switch is on the tail light, horn signals are powered. I have one set (of 3) powered to this so (12v dc) so they are always on. The other two lights (center: high beam, outer two (low beam) are wired thru the oem switch so that the lights only come on when the bike is running. Oem switch on, universal light switch “off” lights off. Universal switch low beam lights the outer two lights. High beam turns off low beam and turns on the center upper light. I’m thinking adding one 5 point relay (like shown in my previous post) from the universal off/lo/high handlebar switch will do the trick? There are two wires from the universal switch ( high/low). I’m thinking these need to go into the 5 point relay and out to the lights from the relay.

 

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It looks like your high-lo switch has an off position, not sure why you'd want/need a 'master on off'..... 

There are many ways to skin this particular 'cat', trying to use something designed for another vehicle is certainly possible however if you don't know your way around a continuity meter or able to read schematics it's going to be challenging.  I'd suggest trying to find someone local who's can help, trying to do this over the internet is not very efficient.

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Posted (edited)

Does the bike have a separate ac lighting coil and circuit? you can buy or build a rectifier for your leds.  wire all that to the battery and the charging won't keep up, hopefully you have a kickstart

 

also if you haven't got too far,  the tusk harness has some hidden crappy crimp splices in it.  Located about where the loom is at the headset tank area (where the wires move alot)  unwrap the loom back to find them and solder and secure better.

Edited by highmarker

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3 hours ago, braindead0 said:

Without details about current wiring, here's how I'd do it..  2 single pole single throw relays.  One to control all power to the lights (I'd recommend running +/- wires directly from battery to the main relay) second relay controls high beams.  One switch turns on first relay powering lighting circuit, second switch powers high beam relay to supply power to the high beam(s).

 

Diagram1.png

Needs fuses!!!

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4 minutes ago, William1 said:

Needs fuses!!!

that's a user added feature, I was just drawing the idea 😉

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Posted (edited)

As per braindead0' wiring diagram a few messages above,

the #85 and #86 terminals operate the coil (say the remote switching)

either terminal to ground and the other to the headlight switch.

 

#30 would be the power input from the battery to the lights,

dividing to either a normally close (87a) or normally open (87) position.

 

With the relay not activated, the circuit is a per the diagram shown on it.

When you power the relay, the 87a & 87 contacts switch to the opposite (one opens and the other closes)

 

Edited by mlatour
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that would be a single pole single throw relay, you'd need two of those to do what I diagramed.  I suspect that it works on the vehicle that it's designed for due to specifics of the vehicle wiring system. 

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Alright fellas I got it to work. I appreciate the advice but that was more if I was building the setup from scratch but I was working off the Tusk Enduro lighting kit wired to the oem 2019 KTM 300 xc-w tpi wiring harness. The relay was exactly what I needed. I just applied what the Polaris guys are doing to keep all three lights on when the high beams are turned on. The relay was spliced into the hi/lo wires coming from the universal handlebar switch and powered (w/ fuse) from the battery, and grounded. Now when I turn on the bike and turn on the high beam, the low beam stays on instead of turning off. At an idle, all lights on, with charging the voyager pro, I’m still getting 13.8-14.1 volts and no dimming/flickering. So the tusk kit has a separate on/off handlebar switch to power the universal wiring harness directly to the battery and so the horn/signals/tail light/brake switch work without the bike running. I have my Bluetooth leds wired to this circuit so they come on with the rest of the Enduro kit. The ktm headlight powers only when the bike is running so the universal handlebar control switch (off/lo/hi) wires into the tusk wiring harness kit, the oem headlight plug, my Polaris forum “trick” relay mod spliced in, and into my leds. Check the videos I just posted to see them working. Let me know if you have any questions.

 

 http://

 

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