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s.hiles

What sprocket setup do y’all run?

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Agreed 100%.  The "gear it super-low and ride like a trials rider" is a FANTASTIC way to learn very important and necessary skills.  I practice those skills every time I ride.  But at the end of the day, I'll spend WAY less energy (and be way faster) just fanning the clutch and smashing over something than creeping over something trials-style. 



I have gained a TON of ability and speed in the last year-ish of riding, and I attribute that to two main things:



1.  Understanding the importance of, and more importantly gaining enough confidence to trust, MOMENTUM. 

2.  A bike / suspension that's good enough to be able to carry that momentum.



We're riding trails now in 1:15-1:25 that used to take 1:45-1:55 (about 15 miles total, GPS tracked).  That's going from about an 8mph average up to about a 11.5mph average, which is HUGE.  Our maximum speed hasn't changed at all; what changed is how much faster we ride through the slow stuff. 
I think sneaky put his tail between legs again. B Shit the stroker won't hit rev limiter 6 gear sand. What do you think ADN does yours easy hit top end on 6,th gear. Without full throttle. I repeat sneaky you never rode a stroker. So before you say bs. You may ask the many that . Are on thumper talk that ride with me
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  Guess I'll chime in. When I take my XR (stock bore, 12:1 piston and my pipe) back into the woods (all gnarly like you guys have in N.C.) 1st gear is pretty much useless. Just too low, even climbing over big rocks and stuff. It has stock gearing (can't remember exactly) which is pretty much like the 230 I'm figuring.

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Posted (edited)

With 13/50 gearing riding my mostly stock 2015 CRF-230F on my property in NC there are many steep hill climbs right after sharp off camber turns on the side of a mountain or out of a stream crossing where 1st gear is just spinning and the engine is screaming at redline to just barely make it to the top of the hill. I installed 13/52 gearing and I now can climb the same steep hills in 2nd gear much faster with less wheel spin and lower RPMs. On some of the hills I can actually use 3rd gear instead of 1st gear and really haul ass up the steep hill with almost no wheel spin. With 13/52 it is much faster lap times than 13/50 on same course.

My 2015 Honda CRF-230F was like new when I bought it from a friend with only 1 hour of ride time. His wife only rode it twice in a field and did not like riding motorcycles. So I got a great deal on it about a year ago. It has a stock motor. I have uncorked it using a 120 main, 45 slow, 03-05 needle 4th clip, CRFs Only air screw, Twin Air filter w/airbox mods, DG R Series Round Slip On exhaust, NGK Iridium spark plug, 13/52 Sunstar gearing w/stock chain, Renthal CRF-150R Adult Bars, Renthal grips, Acerbis Pro Rally hand guards, UFO Plastics (saved the original stock Honda plastics), Works Connection skid plate, BBR  +1/2" shift lever, Moose Shorty clutch lever, Michelin S12 XC tires w/heavy duty tubes, 5w20 Mobil 1 for fork oil, replaced stock hardware with stainless steel hardware wherever possible, and Mobil 1 4T Racing 10w40 oil. I also took the bike down to the frame when I bought it and greased everything with water proof marine grease. I plan on doing more modifications in the future.

Edited by gspartsguy
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Any lower gearing on a 230 and I wouldn't ever use 1st gear, not even to start out in, i would use 2nd gear. 

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So Guys, help me understand. Why are some changing just the rear? Isn't easier just to change the front to a 14 /15. I run mostly single track and yes, 1st gear is too low but I'm an older rider (72) and obviously don't ride as aggressively now. You can see what mods I've made below if that helps determine gears.  Can I get a recommendation 14 or 15 or change the rear to?

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4 hours ago, sneaky98gt said:

Well, there's something I can agree with you on.  From riding a stock-ish 230 that made 16 horsepower, now to a bike that makes 45, I most certainly don't "get it" regarding the superiority of a modified 230 that might make 25 (generous).

Why are you even in this forum anyways?!?

Don't you have another forum you can BS and Bore people in?!?

 

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13/48 is my set up. I’ve tried 12/48 and 14/48 and I like the 13/48 best.

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1 hour ago, dillsley said:

So Guys, help me understand. Why are some changing just the rear? Isn't easier just to change the front to a 14 /15. I run mostly single track and yes, 1st gear is too low but I'm an older rider (72) and obviously don't ride as aggressively now. You can see what mods I've made below if that helps determine gears.  Can I get a recommendation 14 or 15 or change the rear to?

The front sprocket is much easier to change,  so some people take the lazy route and just go down a front toot, which is approximately like going up 3 teeth in the rear sprocket. But the down sides are several,  the chain has to make a sharper bend,  the front sprocket wears faster already than the rear and you now accelerated its wear even more, the chain sliders on the swing arm now wear out much faster as the chain rubs them hard constantly,  and so for me the only way I would change the front sprocket is to go up a tooth if the clearance is there to do so. Usually the best solution if you need to gear a bike down is go up a few teeth on the rear sprocket.  If the chain is too short, add a link or two if needed. There should never be a need for radical gearing changes unless you are severely on the wrong bike. If you want to do gixxer 1k speeds at the drag strip, you shouldn't buy a trail bike in the first place. I frequently ride my daughter's 230, which is running stock gearing and wonder why it is geared so low to begin with, the thing is like a mountain goat in how it will crawl up a hill in 1st.

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1 hour ago, RevyRoamer said:

it is geared so low to begin with, the thing is like a mountain goat in how it will crawl up a hill in 1st.

  Yup, just like my XR. Tom's 13/48 on his 230 is slightly taller and sounds pretty good/just about right.

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You guys correct just change the front gear to 14 or 15t fast easy. We did  change the rear also from 50 to 45t. Because it was still too low geared so we changed the rear 45t. We use 14/45 local means day rides. 15/45 for overnight 4 to 6 days on bike. The only problem with 15/45 on tight slow down steep trail. Need hold clutch in use brakes as at idle too fast.

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Has anyone experienced detonation issues in sixth gear with the taller gearing (14 or 15 tooth front sprocket and/or smaller rear sprocket)?

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Has anyone experienced detonation issues in sixth gear with the taller gearing (14 or 15 tooth front sprocket and/or smaller rear sprocket)?
No my stocker with only pwk carb no pinging on pump fuel hi test. Even with 15/45. My stroker with cam sprocket advanced also procom box . Almost wants to ping only after rain when hooks up. Sometimes I'm forced to run reg fuel. As only thing I can bum from rancho. The stroker will have slight ping. If I just rev it slight bit more between gears no ping.

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Has anyone experienced detonation issues in sixth gear with the taller gearing (14 or 15 tooth front sprocket and/or smaller rear sprocket)?


No, absolutely no detonation is noticed youth taller gearing in sixth gear versus any other gear.
A lot more air flow around cylinder and head when in sixth you know....
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On 3/13/2019 at 8:20 PM, bajatrailrider said:

You guys correct just change the front gear to 14 or 15t fast easy. We did  change the rear also from 50 to 45t. Because it was still too low geared so we changed the rear 45t. We use 14/45 local means day rides. 15/45 for overnight 4 to 6 days on bike. The only problem with 15/45 on tight slow down steep trail. Need hold clutch in use brakes as at idle too fast.

Great post. I moved from stock gearing to 13/48, then 14/48, then yesterday to 14/45.  The power to the rear wheel is much more manageable.  Less wheel spin but still plenty of torque down low.  I have to admit though I was scratching my head for a moment trying to figure out why the rear brake was locked up after the installation of the smaller 45t rear sprocket.  A senior moment, 

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Great post. I moved from stock gearing to 13/48, then 14/48, then yesterday to 14/45.  The power to the rear wheel is much more manageable.  Less wheel spin but still plenty of torque down low.  I have to admit though I was scratching my head for a moment trying to figure out why the rear brake was locked up after the installation of the smaller 45t rear sprocket.  A senior moment, 
Haaa I did same on my one drum brake 230. I was also very surprised on my almost stock 230 . How it handled the 14/45 gear pulls it hard. The two 230 strokers 254 and 270. Blow thought the gears 14/45 like they have stock gear 14/45. Short shift like a big bore at 15/45 then the bikes are good. Not needed for local rides as close to house.

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