Jump to content
NewEngland400

About to De-smog, Vortex, and Open Muffler on 500 exc

Recommended Posts

On 3/25/2019 at 4:30 PM, Burnrider said:

You plan on leaving the emissions stuff on for show?

Hunt the hardware store loose ball bearing drawer & slide an oversized ball down the line for a seal. 

Can you only put ball bearing into the tube and call it a day?

Or do you have to remove brass fitting and plug that too?

I am just not sure how much you actually need to do and how much people are doing to "clean up" etc. 

Trying to figure what's the bare minimum required to stop backfire (as I understand that desmog is required to avoid that condition).

Edited by lag

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you remove all the smog stuff, better to get the plugs for the intake and exhaust. Some want to leave smog in place for show in CA. That's when you plug lines.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 minutes ago, Burnrider said:

If you remove all the smog stuff, better to get the plugs for the intake and exhaust. Some want to leave smog in place for show in CA. That's when you plug lines.

So to do bare minimum and achieve 100% of functionality do you only plug line for exhaust with ball bearing and that's it?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The exhaust you can plug the line in front of the SAS (secondary air system valve). The intake can be plugged with a ball bearing in the hose leading to the brass nipple on the intake. (2017-2019 500 EXC - not sure about the 2020 bikes). You should still pull the reeds, get a fueling device and get an endcap/ muffler.

 

 

Edited by Burnrider

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 minutes ago, Burnrider said:

The exhaust you can plug the line in front of the SAS (secondary air system valve). The intake can be plugged with a ball bearing in the hose leading to the brass nipple on the intake. (2017-2019 500 EXC - not sure about the 2020 bikes).

 

 

Is there are a reason you need to plug intake (brass nipple)? and pluging just exhaust (big tube) is not enough? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 minutes ago, lag said:

Is there are a reason you need to plug intake (brass nipple)? and pluging just exhaust (big tube) is not enough? 

The intake nipple needs to be capped or plugged to prevent air entry into intake track. Exhaust SAS needs to be capped or plugged however you decide, ball bearing or remove and plug device.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 minutes ago, Alan DeLarge said:

The intake nipple needs to be capped or plugged to prevent air entry into intake track. Exhaust SAS needs to be capped or plugged however you decide, ball bearing or remove and plug device.

Sorry, I meant: Is there are a reason you need to plug intake (tube that attaches to brass nipple) assuming original tube is still in place and only change has been made is exhaust tube has been plugged with big bearing inside of it.

I understand that leaving brass nipple with nothing on it is a bad idea as it will suck dirty air.

Edited by lag

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, lag said:

Sorry, I meant: Is there are a reason you need to plug intake (tube that attaches to brass nipple) assuming original tube is still in place and only change has been made is exhaust tube has been plugged with big bearing inside of it.

I understand that leaving brass nipple with nothing on it is a bad idea as it will suck dirty air.

It serves the same purpose, but plugging it drops weight.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, HansLanda said:

It serves the same purpose, but plugging it drops weight.

If I don't care about the weight and want to make it as simple as possible I can plug either tube (intake or exhaust - doesn't have to be both) and it should stop backfires?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 minutes ago, lag said:

If I don't care about the weight and want to make it as simple as possible I can plug either tube (intake or exhaust - doesn't have to be both) and it should stop backfires?

 

I'd recommend plugging both, however you want to.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
39 minutes ago, lag said:

If I don't care about the weight and want to make it as simple as possible I can plug either tube (intake or exhaust - doesn't have to be both) and it should stop backfires?

 

Before removing my SAS I simply stuck an earplug in the open end and test rode, all decell popping went away.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The anchor point for the SAS is weak allowing air to get pulled in around the tube. My dealer left it on the bike plugged and it popped. It needs some kind of support strap to maintain a seal.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Burnrider said:

The anchor point for the SAS is weak allowing air to get pulled in around the tube. My dealer left it on the bike plugged and it popped. It needs some kind of support strap to maintain a seal.

Can you please clarify which anchor point you are referring too?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

At the base of SAS mounting into the exhaust port. Ride it and see if the bike pops. Back in the shop - check the one 6mm bolt securing the SAS for tension.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

While i got rid of the SAS and it's octopus hoses, i just threw a piece of fuel tubing and a screw for the throttle body. I left the charcoal canister in the frame and the connectors on the frame. Why? Totally lazy is the only reason. I'll eventually yank it but ran outta time. No decel pop, Nada, Nothing. I have stage 2 tune upgrade (Blais Racing tune in a Unlocked ECU) and wholly shirt is it a different bike. When i get used to it i will do a Stage 3 ECU upgrade (Vortex or Get). The intake track noise is better than medical Mary Jane.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, cmbthumper said:

While i got rid of the SAS and it's octopus hoses, i just threw a piece of fuel tubing and a screw for the throttle body. I left the charcoal canister in the frame and the connectors on the frame. Why? Totally lazy is the only reason. I'll eventually yank it but ran outta time. No decel pop, Nada, Nothing. I have stage 2 tune upgrade (Blais Racing tune in a Unlocked ECU) and wholly shirt is it a different bike. When i get used to it i will do a Stage 3 ECU upgrade (Vortex or Get). The intake track noise is better than medical Mary Jane.

I have a GET (slavens map), removed the reeds, removed muffler end cap and replaced with a KTMnHusky spark arrestor.  I still have my entire smog system on the bike.  It’s just disabled.  Ball bearing in air injector valve.  Charcoal canister is still up inside her.  Lol.  No decel pop though.  The bike runs like a top.  It can go -1 mph in quicksand and it will not stall.

Edited by NewEngland400

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, NewEngland400 said:

I have a GET (slavens map), removed the reeds, removed muffler end cap and replaced with a KTMnHusky spark arrestor.  I still have my entire smog system on the bike.  It’s just disabled.  Ball bearing in air injector valve.  Charcoal canister is still up inside her.  Lol.  No decel pop though.  The bike runs like a top.  It can go -1 mph in quicksand and it will not stall.

Sounds like you have the bike dialed in.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
14 minutes ago, Burnrider said:

Sounds like you have the bike dialed in.

Well, I simply followed all you guys advice.  It was the simple mod job that many of us have done.  

  • Helpful 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
23 hours ago, lag said:

Sorry, I meant: Is there are a reason you need to plug intake (tube that attaches to brass nipple) assuming original tube is still in place and only change has been made is exhaust tube has been plugged with big bearing inside of it.

This is exactly what the KTM Husky guy recommends on his YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_O8j8I2SKtY

~2:50 in video, he says to avoid breaking off the brass fitting by just plugging the tube between solenoid and the brass fitting

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, NewEngland400 said:

Well, I simply followed all you guys advice.  It was the simple mod job that many of us have done.  

Same here, not rocket science and plenty of info here.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:


×
×
  • Create New...