Jump to content
ktm300

125rr & 200rr Fun Clutch Pack info

Recommended Posts

So, that clutch basket is quite different from what I'm used to, you can actually get at the basket nut and remove the entire complete clutch basket in one assembly with out removing any springs or plates, seven fibers, four aluminum and 2 steel. BUT if you take the inner pressure plates apart to replace plates, what the directions don't tell you is, those two inner pressure plates can go together six ways, but only one way is correct, index it before you take it apart.

I see ProX now has pistons and clutches listed for the 125rr and some stuff list for the 200rr as well, they only list steels for the clutch , I'm switch ing mine to all steel.          

Also the fiber plates are the same as Husky TC250, 09'-13, the steels are unique to Beta. 

Edited by ktm300
  • Like 7

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info, I was surprised I couldn’t find fibers online.

Is there a lighter spring that can be swapped for some or all of the springs?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 3/20/2019 at 7:10 AM, ktm300 said:

So, that clutch basket is quite different from what I'm used to, you can actually get at the basket nut and remove the entire complete clutch basket in one assembly with out removing any springs or plates, seven fibers, four aluminum and 2 steel. BUT if you take the inner pressure plates apart to replace plates, what the directions don't tell you is, those two inner pressure plates can go together six ways, but only one way is correct, index it before you take it apart.

I see ProX now has pistons and clutches listed for the 125rr and some stuff list for the 200rr as well, they only list steels for the clutch , I'm switch ing mine to all steel.          

Also the fiber plates are the same as Husky TC250, 09'-13, the steels are unique to Beta. 

Did you end up switching to all steel? If so how do you like it? I've read the main reason they do Alu/Steel in the smaller bore bikes is to keep them revving freely with less rotational weight. I've also read that ALL steel plates will get you better bite.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did just switch them to all steel, did't really notice any difference, but I also switch to the RK Tech head at the same time.

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did my sons 2019 200rr clutch a couple of months ago, His had all steel from the factory, I also used the pro x husky fibers.  It was a little tricky re assembling , but all in all not too bad.  I still haven't found anything but an OEM piston though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello,

ive been on other threads talking about the clutch engagement on my 2019. The throw at the lever is ridiculously long. You have to squeeze the lever all the way to the bar to disengage and release it all the way to engage. It leaves no room for 1 finger clutch use in technical terrain. I’ve seen other guys mention this issue but no fix.


You guys have any ideas how to make this clutch engage/disengage like a ktm where there is minimal lever travel to do so.

Im thinking a Clake clutch lever might work but it will probably still have the huge throw. 

I put washers under the spring plate to take a bit of tension Off the springs but no change.

Maybe lighter clutch springs?

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

HTR, your having issues not many other 200 guys are, I'd guess either your slave is going south or you have air in the system, my 200 clutch has better feel the any of the 250's I've had.

If your trying to get your Beta clutch to have the same feel as a diaphragm spring clutch, that's never going to happen.   

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
35 minutes ago, Hawaii Trail Rider said:

Hello,

ive been on other threads talking about the clutch engagement on my 2019. The throw at the lever is ridiculously long. You have to squeeze the lever all the way to the bar to disengage and release it all the way to engage. It leaves no room for 1 finger clutch use in technical terrain. I’ve seen other guys mention this issue but no fix.


You guys have any ideas how to make this clutch engage/disengage like a ktm where there is minimal lever travel to do so.

Im thinking a Clake clutch lever might work but it will probably still have the huge throw. 

I put washers under the spring plate to take a bit of tension Off the springs but no change.

Maybe lighter clutch springs?

Thanks

My clutch felt a little draggy but tapered off as the bike broke in. Also as I mentioned in one of your other threads, honda hp2 worked really well for this past race. It went in as the 2nd oil change at 14 hours. I think at 6 bucks a bottle I'll use the remainder of my motul and then its hp2 from then no matter how long if lasts. 

I just picked up a mid west clutch lever for the 300 and it's incredible how easy the clutch is to pull on it now. Plus it's a 2-3 finger lever so way easier to cover. Have you ever tried a bike one?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes I bought and installed the Midwest lever but no change in the throw. The clutch is plenty soft it’s just the throw I’d like to resolve. With the Midwest lever if I adjust it so the disengagement is where I want it then the engagement is incorrect and the clutch slips. 

As for the Honda oil I don’t see how that would resolve the issue. The clutch does not drag when the lever is completely pulled into the bar.

Ive bled the heck out of it. I don’t think it’s air in the line. It’s not spongey.

Seems that for most guys and they terrain they ride it’s not an issue. 

I think the Clake is my last resort. 

I randomly came across this thread so I thought I’d ask the guys here. Seems like the appropriate place. Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
21 minutes ago, Hawaii Trail Rider said:

Yes I bought and installed the Midwest lever but no change in the throw. The clutch is plenty soft it’s just the throw I’d like to resolve. With the Midwest lever if I adjust it so the disengagement is where I want it then the engagement is incorrect and the clutch slips. 

As for the Honda oil I don’t see how that would resolve the issue. The clutch does not drag when the lever is completely pulled into the bar.

Ive bled the heck out of it. I don’t think it’s air in the line. It’s not spongey.

Seems that for most guys and they terrain they ride it’s not an issue. 

I think the Clake is my last resort. 

I randomly came across this thread so I thought I’d ask the guys here. Seems like the appropriate place. Thanks

Hmm its extremely sandy where I am and I'm also on the heavy side. Sometimes a lazy shifter too so I work the clutch pretty hard on it. Cant say I've ever noticed any engagement issues and besides the notchy shifting and drag during the break in hours the clutch works well. I think you may have something else going on. You mentioned your were experiencing clutch fade too. I haven't had any of that even on a 85 mile ST ride trying to keep pace with A guys. Maybe time for a trip to the dealer?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

To add I just took my sons 2005 kx85 out for a cruise and it’s clutch has the same throw as my 2018 Ktm 300 with the DDS clutch. 
 
maybe the clutch plates on my 200 need a sanding and cleaning with Coca Cola? I must have something else going on with this clutch stack you guys don’t have. 
 

Im going to take it apart and do some cleaning.

Edited by Hawaii Trail Rider
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So after going back and rereading your post I realized what your after. The clutch pull is a bit long to full disengagement but the amount of movement available lends well for the kind of clutch fanning I use. Cant say i even disengage the clutch fully on shifts. Maybe its intentional on betas part? They do seen to make their bikes luggable and to do this a wide clutch range would help.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Njbetarider, your probably right. I think the Clake would give me the one finger action I need while allowing the lever to be pulled to the bar to fully disengage. I’m going to do some cleaning/deglazing of the plates just for the hell of it and go from there. Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My 300 pull is just as long so it's not just the 200. The 300s are a bit harder to pull as well and for that bike I dont really work the clutch that much, more for just complete disengagement for shifting. That's why I put the mid west on that to try and get full disengagement with a finger or 2. 

  • Helpful 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
53 minutes ago, Hawaii Trail Rider said:

Yes I bought and installed the Midwest lever but no change in the throw. The clutch is plenty soft it’s just the throw I’d like to resolve. With the Midwest lever if I adjust it so the disengagement is where I want it then the engagement is incorrect and the clutch slips. 

As for the Honda oil I don’t see how that would resolve the issue. The clutch does not drag when the lever is completely pulled into the bar.

Ive bled the heck out of it. I don’t think it’s air in the line. It’s not spongey.

Seems that for most guys and they terrain they ride it’s not an issue. 

I think the Clake is my last resort. 

I randomly came across this thread so I thought I’d ask the guys here. Seems like the appropriate place. Thanks

If anything the MW lever increases the throw in order to reduce pull.  You may want to try your stocker again or an ARC lever.  I have both the MW and ARC and much prefer the ARC.  

  • Like 1
  • Helpful 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
39 minutes ago, NjBetaRider said:

My 300 pull is just as long so it's not just the 200. The 300s are a bit harder to pull as well and for that bike I dont really work the clutch that much, more for just complete disengagement for shifting. That's why I put the mid west on that to try and get full disengagement with a finger or 2. 

Crazy, the 21 300 clutch is insanely light. I've been pulling heavy cable clutches for years and have the permaclaw to prove it so these new ones are completely transparent. Plus you almost never need to feed clutch to the 300, not compared to my yz.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 minutes ago, HeavyRotationClassic said:

Crazy, the 21 300 clutch is insanely light. I've been pulling heavy cable clutches for years and have the permaclaw to prove it so these new ones are completely transparent. Plus you almost never need to feed clutch to the 300, not compared to my yz.

Oh I definitely dont think it's a hard pull, it's like you said pretty easy and light years ahead of a cable clutch. The 200 is an even easier pull though just a bit on the long side. Great if your feathering it but a finger pincher for heavy shifting. I got the new lever so I could keep my ring and pinky finger on while fully disengaging the clutch. Definitely a personal preference kind of thing because you do lose some clutch feel with it. Give and take as always.

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just now, NjBetaRider said:

Oh I definitely dont think it's a hard pull, it's like you said pretty easy and light years ahead of a cable clutch. The 200 is an even easier pull though just a bit on the long side. Great if your feathering it but a finger pincher for heavy shifting. I got the new lever so I could keep my ring and pinky finger on while fully disengaging the clutch. Definitely a personal preference kind of thing because you do lose some clutch feel with it. Give and take as always.

I have these weird lumps of scar tissue on my left ring finger that takes all the abuse from the lever Haha. It's really built up and solid. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

20 minutes into the ride I usually cant feel my hands anyway. I wish the ico enduro computer had voice command because I'm usually fat fingering the buttons after a section. No idea what I'm pressing, can't feel a damn thing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My 19' 125RR has drug as you reported as new. 25 hours and I'm use to it at this point. I use an ARC powerlever - nice & easy, one finger pull with only slight drag. Starts in gear, once it's warm; what more could you want? 

Tested a Sherco 125, clutch felt the same, draggy unless nearly pulled to the bar. I assumed it was a hydro clutch attribute? 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...