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Ktm xc 300 wont start

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My xc 300 sat for a year but fired right up after a few kicks, I had the stater off so I reconnected it and the stater gear jamed up when I used e start, I disconnected it and it wouldn’t start, the stator cover cracked when it jamed so I open it up and replaced the stator with a trail tech. I am currently getting good spark but not starting. Have gas air and spark, any ideas what it could be?  Please help!!

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What year? Try it with the old stator and see if that works. I imagine just because you see spark doesn't mean the spark is strong enough to burn a mixture. Possibly the TrailTech stator is defective or not properly wired.

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I was having the issue before putting in the new stator, so I highly doubt it would be the new stator. It’s no even coughing when sprayed with starter fluid

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1 minute ago, Alex Dimattio said:

And the cdi is good so it’s not thatt

Compression is also good

It’s a 2014

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I'd like to give extra insight for the OP but am out of ideas.

I studied the ignition system for the KTM Freeride 250R and if I experienced this on my bike I'd be tempted to do the following, even if I had spark like the OP.

OP, I'd get a multi-meter if you don't have one and do some checking on the ignition system.

Ignition coil (with spark plug connector removed from the secondary winding end), these numbers are from gleaming a service manual:

  1. Primary winding resistance should be under 1 ohm.
  2. Secondary winding resistance should be 5,000 ohms to 7,000 ohms. I believe this is resistance between the "ground" on the ignition coil and the wire that goes to the spark plug.

Stator: since you're using a Trail tech stator and not the Kokusan OEM unit, I'd check out some videos that test the Trail Tech stator.

Spark plug: Try a new one.

I wonder if any of your other ignition components got damaged in attempts to start with the e-starter at the time it got jammed.

 

This is just my hunch and I am no expert, so someone please correct me if any of what I have said is illogical.

OP, I hope you get it solved.

My theory is that you can have a weak spark and it still may not cough when turning over.

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When you did the stator did you remove the flywheel for any reason?  if you did, when you put it back, were you careful about lining up the groove in the flywheel and the woodruff key?  If you did not remove it, have you checked your woodruff key is intact and correctly locating the flywheel trigger that sets pulse timing for spark?

My Key sheared off and spun the flywheel on the crank shaft.  it put me almost 180 degrees off of timing,  I had spark, fuel and air, but it was sparking at the bottom of the stroke.  

I discovered this because one day i got super pissed after slow deliberate kicks that I rage kicked it like 15 times really fast and got a sputter.  It only sputtered because the rage kicking sucked in enough fuel for it to ignite the whole cylinders fuel volume even at the bottom of the stroke, and it made me think about timing.

 

 

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32 minutes ago, iTGbuDeeV said:

When you did the stator did you remove the flywheel for any reason?  if you did, when you put it back, were you careful about lining up the groove in the flywheel and the woodruff key?  If you did not remove it, have you checked your woodruff key is intact and correctly locating the flywheel trigger that sets pulse timing for spark?

My Key sheared off and spun the flywheel on the crank shaft.  it put me almost 180 degrees off of timing,  I had spark, fuel and air, but it was sparking at the bottom of the stroke.  

I discovered this because one day i got super pissed after slow deliberate kicks that I rage kicked it like 15 times really fast and got a sputter.  It only sputtered because the rage kicking sucked in enough fuel for it to ignite the whole cylinders fuel volume even at the bottom of the stroke, and it made me think about timing.

 

 

Thank you, I will check timing this week

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6 hours ago, iTGbuDeeV said:

When you did the stator did you remove the flywheel for any reason?  if you did, when you put it back, were you careful about lining up the groove in the flywheel and the woodruff key?  If you did not remove it, have you checked your woodruff key is intact and correctly locating the flywheel trigger that sets pulse timing for spark?

My Key sheared off and spun the flywheel on the crank shaft.  it put me almost 180 degrees off of timing,  I had spark, fuel and air, but it was sparking at the bottom of the stroke.  

I discovered this because one day i got super pissed after slow deliberate kicks that I rage kicked it like 15 times really fast and got a sputter.  It only sputtered because the rage kicking sucked in enough fuel for it to ignite the whole cylinders fuel volume even at the bottom of the stroke, and it made me think about timing.

 

 

Speaking of timing, I wonder if his crankshaft position sensor is perhaps askew.

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On 4/22/2019 at 9:32 PM, freeride250r said:

Speaking of timing, I wonder if his crankshaft position sensor is perhaps askew.

 

So it turned out to be a sheared off woodruff key

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