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13 SX250 (300) woods setup for best power delivery

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So here is the story.  I picked up a '13 SX250 for racing hare scrambles in Wisconsin.  I run the +40 vet class and can get around pretty quick (had been racing my '13 CRF450r).  As far as suspension setup, I have that covered.  What I AM asking, is what is the best combination of engine parts to make it woods friendly.  I want it to have gobs of grunt down low, with as smooth of a transition to the upper power as possible.  When I bought the bike it came with a box full of spare parts.  I can start swapping to see what I like best, but I figured I'd tap into the knowledge on this board for some up front knowledge.  Thanks for any feedback!

Current setup: 

300 top end kit (are there different head options from KTM?  I'm not sure which I have if there is)

300 CDI

38mm carb (from a 125)

FMF fatty pipe / shorty silencer

Spare Parts:

250 CDI

36mm carb (stock)

Stock pipe / silencer

Bag full of power valve spring options

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Dang, same here. Vet40 A rider, slowing down a little, but still got a little left. Bought a 12 SX250 with very little time on it. Big tank, tall seat, skid plate, flywheel weight. The suspension was done by the other owner and I have the specs, and if feels fine for me. I feel its got plenty of grunt, and runs really strong, I just cant get it jetted real good. Has the pipe bang, or hanging idle a lot of people talk about. I am thinking of buying a Lectron carb. From quite a few people I have heard it makes the bike so much more responsive which would make it feel like it had more low end. Dont want to put tons in to the bike or it would have been easier to just buy a new one. 

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If you're looking for torque first thing I'd drop is the fatty/shorty combo and replace with gnarly/TCII. Then look for a fly wheel weight around 12-13ou.

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jsned250, so far on mine (have only ridden once yesterday), the jetting seems perfect.  Amazing crisp, no hanging idle, no bog, starts with about 1/2 swat at the kicker with a smooth low idle.  The guy was running 50/50 race/pump fuel.  Amsoil 40:1.  Can't remember the clip # but it's in the #3 position.  42sj and 156mj or 158mj, and 2 turns on the air screw.   Temp about 55, altitude 500'

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The green spring really helps tame the upper mid hit

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, WIfarmer said:

 I want it to have gobs of grunt down low, with as smooth of a transition to the upper power as possible.

 

Suzuki triple taper needle.

Edited by Trailryder42

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2 hours ago, WIfarmer said:

Current setup: 

300 top end kit (are there different head options from KTM?  I'm not sure which I have if there is)

300 CDI

 38mm carb (from a 125)

FMF fatty pipe / shorty silencer

Spare Parts:

 250 CDI

36mm carb (stock)

Stock pipe / silencer

Bag full of power valve spring options

The 36 carb will add some response down low.  But it will also shave a few hp off peak which seems to be what you are after.

PV spring changes aren't going to add bottom.  Honestly, it would be good to throw it on a dyno as is, before you start making changes, so that you have a baseline to compare to.

Getting your head setup properly is probably the cheapest and most noticeable improvement.  More compression and proper squish clearance (around 1.2mm).

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I would be careful getting more hp out 9f the 13, I had a 13 350 and the 13 250sx made it feel slow

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1 hour ago, mog said:

I would be careful getting more hp out 9f the 13, I had a 13 350 and the 13 250sx made it feel slow

He wants more power down low.

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He wants more power down low.
I think you hit the nail on the head ,get it Dyno to see where it's at ,I would think that setup should have lots of bottom ,the shorty won't help as others said ,but mine doesn't lose hardly any on the 150
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