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20hrs Tight Valves and Dyno Result

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I took my bike 2018 exc 500 in for a valve check and a dyno tune. I have Vortex, Fmf and reeds pulled. Dyno result made me sad. 40hp at the rear tire. Anybody know what the drivetrain loss is for this? I know it’s not 20hp. I read this bike would do 60hp. 

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It's really difficult to compare dyno numbers. Either there was slippage from the knobby, or could be the correction factor they used, or could be humidity, altitude, etc etc. What's important is how it feels to you. If you got a proper tune and it's running well (a/f ratios and all that), then the number doesn't matter.

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Posted (edited)
5 minutes ago, jrodicus100 said:

It's really difficult to compare dyno numbers. Either there was slippage from the knobby, or could be the correction factor they used, or could be humidity, altitude, etc etc. What's important is how it feels to you. If you got a proper tune and it's running well (a/f ratios and all that), then the number doesn't matter.

AF looks really good. Bike runs well. And the before and after number showed a 10% gain. The soft (Cheater) tire was shredding so I assume there was some traction issue. The low and high trim pots on the vortex went from 5 all the way to 8 which surprised me. I was also surprised the valves were out of spec so soon. 

Edited by phatfos1

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, StevetheSnake said:

Yes you need to run a street tire for real HP numbers. You must have had tire slippage issues. The Dyno guy should have known and told you. 

My built 08 WR480 supermoto produced 57 HP on a Dynojet. 

I didn't have a street tire I just had the (brand new) cheater on there. Tore the heck out of it which I assume means it was slipping and not putting up an accurate HP. I emailed him and he said it should be within 1-2hp even with the traction issue. My S1000rr put down 205 on the same dyno under similar conditions. The number must be off considerably more than the 1-2hp he said otherwise I don't think the bike would wheelie easily in fourth gear with 13/49 gearing! My AF numbers look great though and the before/after runs show a lot more power under the curve even though that HP number was a bit of a wtf moment.

Edited by phatfos1

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24 minutes ago, phatfos1 said:

I didn't have a street tire I just had the (brand new) cheater on there. Tore the heck out of it which I assume means it was slipping and not putting up an accurate HP. I emailed him and he said it should be within 1-2hp even with the traction issue. My S1000rr put down 205 on the same dyno under similar conditions. The number must be off considerably more than the 1-2hp he said otherwise I don't think the bike would wheelie easily in fourth gear with 13/49 gearing! My AF numbers look great though and the before/after runs show a lot more power under the curve even though that HP number was a bit of a wtf moment.

He is very very wrong.

And not only is he wrong, you ruined a tire in the process.

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14 minutes ago, eastreich said:

He is very very wrong.

And not only is he wrong, you ruined a tire in the process.

Crap. Ok. Well, I paid for a tune and he fixed the AF issue that was clearly there. Wish he would have told me the tire would be shredded I would have said forget it. 

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The advertised hp numbers are for the euro version I heard... what vortex tune do you have?  I have a pr2 racing vortex which is for snowbikes however it has a dirt bike map for max hp. Might want to contact Jeff at pr2 racing and ask him about his tune. 

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17 hours ago, phatfos1 said:

I took my bike 2018 exc 500 in for a valve check and a dyno tune. I have Vortex, Fmf and reeds pulled. Dyno result made me sad. 40hp at the rear tire. Anybody know what the drivetrain loss is for this? I know it’s not 20hp. I read this bike would do 60hp. 

That's sounds more like a totally stock 500 plugged up, should be 50 horse Plus, opened up at the rear wheel. If you were running a knobbie, it would drop the rating.

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6 hours ago, Spud786 said:

That's sounds more like a totally stock 500 plugged up, should be 50 horse Plus, opened up at the rear wheel. If you were running a knobbie, it would drop the rating.

Well now I want to take it back for a real run on a street tire. 

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3 minutes ago, phatfos1 said:

Well now I want to take it back for a real run on a street tire. 

Ive never seen any 500 come out that low, do you know where he adjusted the PR2 settings , Im just curious as to what dial clicks got changed?  

Being a pr2 wondering if if  was overfueled and he went leaner on some clicks or opposite.

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Posted (edited)
7 minutes ago, Spud786 said:

Ive never seen any 500 come out that low, do you know where he adjusted the PR2 settings , Im just curious as to what dial clicks got changed?  

Being a pr2 wondering if if  was overfueled and he went leaner on some clicks or opposite.

On map 1 he went to 6,8,8. I was at 555. He told me that when I go to 5000+ feet to back them off one click each. With the changes he made the AF numbers were much smoother at 14.2 iirc. I will put the dyno charts up as soon as I get home for you guys who know what you’re talking about to take a look. 

Edited by phatfos1
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Posted (edited)

 

ALL, the original poster did not say he had a PR2 tuned vortex. I just wanted to make that abundantly clear.  I was the one  saying I have one and run it in their dirt bike mode during the summer and to possibly call them to remap your vortex to some better maps. 

 

 

 

 

Edited by broke311
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2 minutes ago, broke311 said:

 

ALL, the original poster did not say he had a PR2 tuned vortex. I just wanted to make that abundantly clear.  I was the one  saying I have one and run it in their dirt bike mode during the summer and to possibly call them to remap your vortex to some better maps. 

 

 

 

 

Correct. I have an “off the shelf” Vortex from Slavens. Reeds pulled and FMF 4.1. I took it to BHP in California to check my AF and he does that using a Dyno and the power to the knobby was low which surprised me. I was under the impression this bike would go close to 60hp with the changes I made to it. This same Dyno showed an as expected 200+ HP on my street bike.  So when I saw the KTM number I assumed something was wrong with either traction (since it had a knobby Shinko tire) or with the calibration of the Dyno. I will upload the charts later today. 

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Many, many people are interested in the hp numbers on this bike with the vortex. You’d be doing a good deed by getting a street tire and going back at it. I sure would appreciate it!  Also you might want to just swap in the fc 450 air boot to make sure you get max power(it’s cheap). Thanks!!!!

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Many, many people are interested in the hp numbers on this bike with the vortex. You’d be doing a good deed by getting a street tire and going back at it. I sure would appreciate it!  Also you might want to just swap in the fc 450 air boot to make sure you get max power(it’s cheap). Thanks!!!!

Is there any Dyno data showing the diff between the stock air boot (reeds removed) and the FC450 that you mention? How is the FC different?

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4 hours ago, KennyMc said:


Is there any Dyno data showing the diff between the stock air boot (reeds removed) and the FC450 that you mention? How is the FC different?

What do you mean by the FC boot? Is it different (if so, how) then the exc boot?

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On 4/18/2019 at 9:51 AM, phatfos1 said:

I took my bike 2018 exc 500 in for a valve check and a dyno tune. I have Vortex, Fmf and reeds pulled. Dyno result made me sad. 40hp at the rear tire. Anybody know what the drivetrain loss is for this? I know it’s not 20hp. I read this bike would do 60hp. 

Here are the Dyno runs. Am taking it back and will have them put a street tire on and run again. 

 

On 4/18/2019 at 9:51 AM, phatfos1 said:

I took my bike 2018 exc 500 in for a valve check and a dyno tune. I have Vortex, Fmf and reeds pulled. Dyno result made me sad. 40hp at the rear tire. Anybody know what the drivetrain loss is for this? I know it’s not 20hp. I read this bike would do 60hp. 

 

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1 minute ago, phatfos1 said:

What do you mean by the FC boot? Is it different (if so, how) then the exc boot?

Ahh shoot, sorry I thought we were in the fe501 forum. Disregard my post, as the ktm’s have a different air box I believe. I wonder though if you could put an sxf air boot in there. It shouldn’t have the reed valve in it and it will be optimized for power rather than for reeds 

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