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Running lean after switching to K&N filter

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I just switched from the foam to K&N filter and the bike seems not to be ruining too lean.

After warmed up and accelerating it is not responding.

Last week I had the jetting kit installed and it was running gray then.

I’m not an advanced mechanic but if I learn how to do something I can keep doing it.

I messed up a bit with the fuel screw yesterday but if someone could walk me through the steps on how to properly adjust it that would be great.

How many turns should I start with again? How do I start with zero turns?

 

Mods in the bike

Mrd shorty

3x3

JD jetting kit

Hopefully the KN filter.

 

Thanks in advance.

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Turn it all the way tight. Back it out 2.5 turns and start from there.

 

Dump the k&n filter and go back to the foam. K&n lets in a lot of dirt. It lets in particles a lot larger than other filters

 

 

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Turn it all the way tight. Back it out 2.5 turns and start from there.
 
Dump the k&n filter and go back to the foam. K&n lets in a lot of dirt. It lets in particles a lot larger than other filters
 
 

Thank you.
I’m not planning on doing a lot of off road riding.
I’m wondering about your comment on the lack of protection of the K&N. Before I bought it I read conflicting stories making it hard to decide. I went with it because it’s easier to maintain.

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, b-mtrd said:


Thank you.
I’m not planning on doing a lot of off road riding.
I’m wondering about your comment on the lack of protection of the K&N. Before I bought it I read conflicting stories making it hard to decide. I went with it because it’s easier to maintain.

K&N filters are made for performance/racing, on tracks (controlled environments) where dirt, dust, debris and anything else isn't being kicked up in the air and being sucked into your airbox and into your filter. It allows more air through, but this also means there's less filtration; and more chance for dirt particles to find their way through.  They're easier to maintain, sure, and you can reuse them many times, etc etc, but your engine will thank you down the road for using a good ol' foam filter on it. 

Many people have their own views on them but at the end of the day, there have been plenty of tests done to show they let far more dirt through than your regular foam filter; regardless of the environment you ride in.

Edited by Divisi0n
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 I've had a K&N in my DRZ for almost 10years and have had no issues, but I don't live in a dry and dusty environment. If your bike is now running lean, you get to put in a larger main jet :ride:

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Did a bit of trial and error today
Installed the foam air filter again, turned the screw to 2.5 turns and went for a ride. It was still running lean so I started turning it counter clockwise 1/2 turn at a time.
I got to 4 turns but I’m not sure if that’s the ideal setting or I went too rich.
What’s the best way to find the ideal setting?

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Set it at 2 turns.Go for a ride,at least 15 min.,get the motor hot so it's at full operating temp.Turn the idle as low as it will allow it to stay running.Turn the fuel screw out or in until the idle peaks and smooths at the highest rpm.Turn idle down and test again to make sure you have peak idle speed.Raise idle speed back to about 1600-1800rpm.Blip the throttle to see if it returns quickly back to normal idle speed and that there is no hanging idle.Note the number of turns on the fuel screw.If less than 1.5 turns you need a larger pilot jet.If more than 3.5 turns you need a smaller pilot jet,then the process starts over again.

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Posted (edited)
29 minutes ago, b-mtrd said:

Did a bit of trial and error today
Installed the foam air filter again, turned the screw to 2.5 turns and went for a ride. It was still running lean so I started turning it counter clockwise 1/2 turn at a time.
I got to 4 turns but I’m not sure if that’s the ideal setting or I went too rich.
What’s the best way to find the ideal setting?

4 is too far whether it runs good or not. It will fall out. You need a bigger pilot if it needs 4. Look at the FAQ section for instructions on how to set the fuel screw.

Edited by Atolduso

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Silly question.
Screw all the way closed means lean or rich. As you open the screw are you increasing the fuel or air amount?
I’m new to carbureted bikes.

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Posted (edited)
1 minute ago, b-mtrd said:

Silly question.
Screw all the way closed means lean or rich. As you open the screw are you increasing the fuel or air amount?
I’m new to carbureted bikes.

Its a fuel screw, the more open the screw is the richer the mix. Screw in = leaner.

Edited by Atolduso

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