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WR250F maps with stock exhaust


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Hi,

 

I have the GYTR Tuner and ECU installed in a 2015 WR250F. I am using the suggested Map that is included with the instructions for the Stock exhaust. I have a couple questions:

 

1) Does anyone have a similar setup and modified the mapping for better performance etc? 

2) By installing an aftermarket pipe,  ie (FMF Q4) what are the likely performance gains?  (I know it will sounds better, but what should I expect in terms of performance?) 

 

thank you!

 

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  • 7 months later...

I have the same bike with the competition ECU. I put the YZ 250 muffler on mine that I purchased as a new take off and it really uncorked it. It is louder but the power increase makes up for the increased noise. Also, I did the other mods such as replacing the throttle screw and modifying the air filter housing.

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I have the same bike with the competition ECU. I put the YZ 250 muffler on mine that I purchased as a new take off and it really uncorked it. It is louder but the power increase makes up for the increased noise...

A word of caution: please use ear plugs when riding with these “virtually” open exhaust systems. After riding MX bikes for roughly 45 years I’m am now nearly completely deaf. The ringing is so loud that signal to noise ratio in my head is 5% at best. I never thought it would happen to me either...Don’t make this same mistake.
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On 1/24/2020 at 7:44 PM, Jonezed7 said:

Depends what kind of riding you do. Here's a cheat sheet:

image.png.dc7d3163dd96517436ea4df6badf014c.png

These maps look a little conservative to me, are they for a WR?  Generally I find the WR needs much more fuel than standard, and negative numbers of ignition on the bottom row (I regularly use -6 -4 -4) to stop the throttle being too snappy.

The most important thing to do with maps is pre-build a selection of 4 or 5 in the tuner/app and try them all one after the other, when you're out riding, so you can compare them directly.  Then come home, make a few changes to the maps where you think it needs to feel different and do the same again.  But, as above, making changes of +/-1 here and there probably won't make a noticeable difference.  Similar to suspension tuning, if you make the changes too small you won't be able to detect a difference, you need to go 3 or 4 numbers either way and you will be able to tell quickly if you're going in the right direction.

Edited by Ooshka
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17 hours ago, work4matt said:

Hi guys. I see all these map charts etc for a stock exhaust. My Q is do these maps still apply to an aftermarket system?

I’m using a full Yoshi RS4, without the tail pipe insert, or is there a specific map for this.

Thanks!

Try these for an aftermarket exhaust.  Worth trying with a stock exhaust too but may need some mods.

 

431848770_OoshkaWR250FMaps_Page_1.jpg.5dbef0dd00821eb91d621656a66ce75e.jpg

1731747831_OoshkaWR250FMaps_Page_2.jpg.eeda4bc477165db7227a541096d350b0.jpg

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4 hours ago, Ooshka said:

Try these for an aftermarket exhaust.  Worth trying with a stock exhaust too but may need some mods.

 

431848770_OoshkaWR250FMaps_Page_1.jpg.5dbef0dd00821eb91d621656a66ce75e.jpg

1731747831_OoshkaWR250FMaps_Page_2.jpg.eeda4bc477165db7227a541096d350b0.jpg

Thumbs up to Ooshka.  I followed his lead from previous posts and have found a map very similar to #3, works for me.  Take the tuner with you, define a test loop and have at it.  Stock exhaust, baffle out, SA in. 

Edited by kcposty
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On 2/16/2020 at 5:03 AM, Ooshka said:

Try these for an aftermarket exhaust.  Worth trying with a stock exhaust too but may need some mods.

 

431848770_OoshkaWR250FMaps_Page_1.jpg.5dbef0dd00821eb91d621656a66ce75e.jpg

1731747831_OoshkaWR250FMaps_Page_2.jpg.eeda4bc477165db7227a541096d350b0.jpg

I didn't create the mappings I posted. Someone on here did, I was just sharing.

How would you modify those mappings for the stock exhaust? 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I finally had time to try out some engine maps. I attached a pic with the quick info and have additional thoughts outlined below.

I'm laying out all pertinent information so that others know exactly how they worked for me in these conditions.

Bike: '19 WR250F with GYTR comp kit (airbox and exhaust mod done per instructions), otherwise stock

Rider: midpack C rider at MX and HS (10 years ago), will see how I do this year in enduro.

Test Conditions: I started with doing a slow race/trails stands, bar lock figure 8, a few throttle cracks, clutch up the front wheel, crack the gas on slick section going slow. After that I did 2 continuous timed laps on a 1.6 mile harescramble style loop. The track comprised of some atv woods trail, sand ruts, whoops, berms and fast sections. This was in Florida so it was all sand with the woods section having a medium amount of roots. I started with the base map and worked through them in order. I omitted the time data as the trail shaped up and I found faster lines skewing the data towards later laps. Over a 30 min session lap times were 3:34 averaged with avg speed of 27mph for reference.

 

GYTR Stock Exhaust map: It felt better down low and up top than the stock all zeros map. Had a noticeable hit where it really seemed to come on up top. Hard throttle through a corner could spin up the wheel at the transition to the top end. Not the smoothest map but I'd take it over the base one for what I was riding.

GYTR Soft: This map is real soft! It was great down low and could chug along but had zero top end. There was no over-rev and the bike revved very slow. There was a marked improvement in traction and I could easily get the front wheel up from a track stand in the sand. The mellow, linear power gave great confidence in the longer corners but let down everywhere that required acceleration. I did not like it on the test track but was the best map for the figure 8s and such.

GYTR Hard: Power increase is easily noticeable! Great power and snappy delivery like a proper MX bike. The motor revs quickly and keeps pulling all the way to the end. It flamed out/stalled a bit easier in my figure 8/trials test and the snappy power isn't the best for getting traction in slippery stuff. I liked it a lot in the more open sections and it could pull a gear taller in the corners with some clutching which helped with the more unforgiving, snappy throttle response.

Dirt Bike Test: This map gives an excellent, fat midrange. I was immediately comfortable with this setting as it is a bit of a goldilocks of the Soft and Hard map. The midrange is powerful but it doesn't feel abrupt either. It stalls easier than the Soft map and lacks the top end of the Hard map, but absolutely rips compared to the all zero stock map. The midrange was great for the woods section, allowing for smoother cornering and shooting me towards the next corner. This is probably the best map for the kind of riding I typically do in Pennsylvania where the top end won't be missed but on this loop the lack of top end pull compared to the hard map was rather noticeable.  I liked this map enough that I kept it in to do my 30 min practice run and will likely try to modify it for more top end pull.

 

I will try out some more engine maps when I get some free time, and will re-test everything when I can get to ride the rocky trails of PA.

Engine Maps - WR250F.png

Edited by onewheelwheatley
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