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How to get to DR350 shift drum bolt?


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Hey guys,

Last time I rode my engine started making a loud ticking noise and losing power. Today I'm gonna drain the oil and take a look at the valves and the top end. I figured if I'm draining the oil I might as well make sure my shift drum bolt is in the right place and torqued properly.

Only thing is I'm mechanically inexperienced and I can't find any good guides on how to get to the shift drum bolt, anyone have step by step instructions? I'm scared I won't put the bike back together properly.... 

I heard there were some detailed posts on the maximum suzuki forums but I don't have access yet as my registration is pending approval.

Thanks guys,

-Zamboni

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no need to drain oil to check valves. use free shop manual found at thisoldtractor.

intake .002-.004" all models

exhaust .003-.005" 90 models

exhaust .004-.006" 91-93 models

exhaust .007-.009" 94-99 models

make sure the motor is cold

plenty of info on shift drum bolt both here & adventurerider DR350 thread.

if you go in, also check the primary drive nut, they can make a racket when loose.

 

Edited by plugeye
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It's about time for an oil change so I want to drain it anyways. Check the filter for (godforbid) metal fragments and such. 

Thanks for the manual and also your presence on this forum, I've posted months ago about other things and you were always the first to reply, I appreciate that.

Mine is a 93, do you know the valve clearance specs for it? Also, the manual states that I should use a special tool which I do not own to remove the clutch basket, should I buy it and wait to check the bolt?

Lastly, do you think my loud top end tick (audible when hand cranking, proportional to RPMs) is likely to be as simple as a loose valve or cam chain? Today I will adjust the clearance as well as the CCT, I just find it strange that my bike sounded normal when I went out, then within 2 hours had a tick that overpowers the sound of my exhaust. Though it did start immediately after I pushed it on a small stretch of highway where it felt somewhat underpowered (about 80% power I'd say). Bike still starts first or second kick and runs more or less fine.

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Thanks again plugeye. 

I'm trying to check my valves but my bike's timing window hex bolt is stripped as hell and I can't get it off. Any ideas?

It's a kicker so i can kick the engine over but have no way to tell if its in TDC or not, unless you know a way.

Thanks

20190628_181346.jpg

By the way it looks wet because I sprayed PB blaster on it

 

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1 hour ago, gzamboni said:

Thanks again plugeye. 

I'm trying to check my valves but my bike's timing window hex bolt is stripped as hell and I can't get it off. Any ideas?

It's a kicker so i can kick the engine over but have no way to tell if its in TDC or not, unless you know a way.

Thanks

20190628_181346.jpg

By the way it looks wet because I sprayed PB blaster on it

 

Use a Dremel tool with a cut off wheel to grind a slot through the center of the bolt, use a large flat blade screwdriver to remove the bolt. The heat from cutting the slot should help as well. I would use a new washer any time I remove it (after you replace that one) and not over tighten it. You could use a chisel and hammer also tap a notch in the side of the head of the bolt to get a bite then tap it counterclockwise to loosen bolt. Good luck and be careful not to over tighten the plug on the case to access nut on the crank to turn the bike over as the aluminum hex's strip easily as well.

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