Crf150r crankcase damage

[Trenton Barnett]

Hey guys I just bought a Crf150r that was locked up for 250$ lol. I got it completely tore down and the cases split. There was some damage with the piston and cylinder but nothing major. There was a bunch of nics in the underside of the piston like a bunch of metal got into the cylinder. Once I got the cylinder off though the crank spun very smoothly and freely and after splitting the cases nothing is damaged in the bottom end or missing that I know of. The only thing I am concerned about is on the inner part of the crankcase halves right in the middle all the way around where the crank goes, there is all kinds of scoring and nicks in the surface of the cases. It looks like it blew up in the past and the crank crashed into the walls around it and some kind of metal gouged it all up. I just need to know if the cases are able to be ran or not. I don’t see why they wouldn’t be able too because I don’t think it would affect anything but I don’t know much when it comes to engines lol. I just want to get someones opinion who knows what they are talking about before I put a lot of money and time into it just for it to blow up again. I’ll post some pics of it to help out and if u have any more questions about it just ask and I’ll reply quickly. Any help would be greatly appreciated. And also what do u think happened to it? I think it blew up initially and some random mechanic down the road rebuilt it and it blew up right away again. All the parts - piston, head, crank, etc. look like they have very little run time and the crank is aftermarket. I also do know that it got rained in which is why the kid that I bought it from said it was locked up. The cam was very rusty and the cylinder had a pool for water sitting in it.

[brando brap@youtube.com]

Hey guys I just bought a Crf150r that was locked up for 250$ lol. I got it completely tore down and the cases split. There was some damage with the piston and cylinder but nothing major. There was a bunch of nics in the underside of the piston like a bunch of metal got into the cylinder. Once I got the cylinder off though the crank spun very smoothly and freely and after splitting the cases nothing is damaged in the bottom end or missing that I know of. The only thing I am concerned about is on the inner part of the crankcase halves right in the middle all the way around where the crank goes, there is all kinds of scoring and nicks in the surface of the cases. It looks like it blew up in the past and the crank crashed into the walls around it and some kind of metal gouged it all up. I just need to know if the cases are able to be ran or not. I don’t see why they wouldn’t be able too because I don’t think it would affect anything but I don’t know much when it comes to engines lol. I just want to get someones opinion who knows what they are talking about before I put a lot of money and time into it just for it to blow up again. I’ll post some pics of it to help out and if u have any more questions about it just ask and I’ll reply quickly. Any help would be greatly appreciated. And also what do u think happened to it? I think it blew up initially and some random mechanic down the road rebuilt it and it blew up right away again. All the parts - piston, head, crank, etc. look like they have very little run time and the crank is aftermarket. I also do know that it got rained in which is why the kid that I bought it from said it was locked up. The cam was very rusty and the cylinder had a pool for water sitting in it.

Even if you buy new cases halves your still in the green if you got it for 250 those are too trashed up for me

[Trenton Barnett]

3 minutes ago, brando brap@youtube.com said:

Even if you buy new cases halves your still in the green if you got it for 250 those are too trashed up for me

Yea that is a good point. I want to spend as little as possible on the bike though because I have intentions on reselling it. You don’t think the cases would be alright to run though? I have thought about it for a while  and I don’t see why they wouldn’t be ok. 

Thanks for the reply

[brando brap@youtube.com]

Yea that is a good point. I want to spend as little as possible on the bike though because I have intentions on reselling it. You don’t think the cases would be alright to run though? I have thought about it for a while  and I don’t see why they wouldn’t be ok. 
Thanks for the reply

How deep are the gouges and is there any damage to the crank at all scoring marks

[Trenton Barnett]

1 minute ago, brando brap@youtube.com said:

How deep are the gouges and is there any damage to the crank at all scoring marks

No the crank is fine but I think this happened in the past with a different crank in the bike because there is no way the cases could be like that and the crank be fine. It is an aftermarket crank too. The gouges aren’t very deep but there is one little one that might be a 1/8 inch deep. And if I did run them I will clean them out very good and maybe try to sand it smooth where the damage is that way there isn’t any metal protruding out or anything

[William1]

I'd carefully take off any sharp edges and not do any more. It is not a 2S.

[Toadmeister00]

6 hours ago, Trenton Barnett said:

No the crank is fine but I think this happened in the past with a different crank in the bike because there is no way the cases could be like that and the crank be fine. It is an aftermarket crank too. The gouges aren’t very deep but there is one little one that might be a 1/8 inch deep. And if I did run them I will clean them out very good and maybe try to sand it smooth where the damage is that way there isn’t any metal protruding out or anything

Those cases are okay to use. 

Use the money that you don't have to spend on cases to buy a new o.e. crank.  Whatever aftermarket crank that is in there is garbage. That goes for both Wiseco and Hot Rods, but especially for Wiseco.

[Trenton Barnett]

5 hours ago, William1 said:

I'd carefully take off any sharp edges and not do any more. It is not a 2S.

Yea I was gonna get some soft sand paper and try to make it smooth as I can without going into the case past where it is supposed to be. I hope it’ll be alright

[Trenton Barnett]

5 hours ago, Toadmeister00 said:

Those cases are okay to use. 

Use the money that you don't have to spend on cases to buy a new o.e. crank.  Whatever aftermarket crank that is in there is garbage. That goes for both Wiseco and Hot Rods, but especially for Wiseco.

Ok I’m glad to hear that the cases are fine to use. If they weren’t I prolly would part the bike out. And the crank that was in it was a wiseco. It seems fine but I was gonna replace it anyways because of heard nothing but bad things about them. I can get a good used oem crank off of eBay for around 100$. I think I might go that route.

[William1]

1 hour ago, Trenton Barnett said:

Yea I was gonna get some soft sand paper and try to make it smooth as I can without going into the case past where it is supposed to be. I hope it’ll be alright

All you want to do is remove the sharp edges. Keep away from the machined surfaces where the cases meet. I'd use a Dremel with a sanding drum. Low speed (1/3 or so) and take your time going in at a slight angle so as to keep the drum away from the edge. You will also either have to replace the bearings or tape them off to keep grit and alloy out. Then a through washing and lubrication.

[Trenton Barnett]

53 minutes ago, William1 said:

All you want to do is remove the sharp edges. Keep away from the machined surfaces where the cases meet. I'd use a Dremel with a sanding drum. Low speed (1/3 or so) and take your time going in at a slight angle so as to keep the drum away from the edge. You will also either have to replace the bearings or tape them off to keep grit and alloy out. Then a through washing and lubrication.

Ok I’ll give it a try, it actually has a little gouge in the edge where the cases seal together. I think it is fine though because it was sealing fine. I never noticed it leaking any oil or anything. When I put them back together I might use a little gasket maker on top of the gasket to ensure that it doesn’t leak in that little spot. Would that be ok to do?

[William1]

31 minutes ago, Trenton Barnett said:

Ok I’ll give it a try, it actually has a little gouge in the edge where the cases seal together. I think it is fine though because it was sealing fine. I never noticed it leaking any oil or anything. When I put them back together I might use a little gasket maker on top of the gasket to ensure that it doesn’t leak in that little spot. Would that be ok to do?

Surgically clean only. No gasket sealer. Only us it where the service manual specifies. You are better off leafing and deformity alone where the case halves meet Vs. damaging them.

[Trenton Barnett]

35 minutes ago, William1 said:

Surgically clean only. No gasket sealer. Only us it where the service manual specifies. You are better off leafing and deformity alone where the case halves meet Vs. damaging them.

Ok. I’ll just sand all the sharp spots a little then go around with a razor blade and remove all the stuck on gasket. After that I’ll clean everything as best as I can. I’ll order everything I need to get the cases back together - a gasket, a crank, and a new oil valve thing cuz the old one is gummed up. All the bearings feel good so I’ll leave them in and I’ll mask them off so I don’t get stuff down in them. Also should I order some assembly lube to lube up the bearings or will I be fine with just engine oil?

 

Does all of this sound good to you? I have some experience working on bikes but this is the first time I’ve ever been in the bottom end of one. I though what better to learn on though than something I payed 250$ for lol

[William1]

1 hour ago, Trenton Barnett said:

Ok. I’ll just sand all the sharp spots a little then go around with a razor blade and remove all the stuck on gasket. After that I’ll clean everything as best as I can. I’ll order everything I need to get the cases back together - a gasket, a crank, and a new oil valve thing cuz the old one is gummed up. All the bearings feel good so I’ll leave them in and I’ll mask them off so I don’t get stuff down in them. Also should I order some assembly lube to lube up the bearings or will I be fine with just engine oil?

 

Does all of this sound good to you? I have some experience working on bikes but this is the first time I’ve ever been in the bottom end of one. I though what better to learn on though than something I payed 250$ for lol

Be 110% careful with the razor blade, the last thing you want to do is gouge the case. I use solvent and towels to rub gaskets off. No sharp objects. Engine oil only on bearings.

[Trenton Barnett]

16 minutes ago, William1 said:

Be 110% careful with the razor blade, the last thing you want to do is gouge the case. I use solvent and towels to rub gaskets off. No sharp objects. Engine oil only on bearings.

Ok I am halfway done with the razor blade and it hasn’t gouged the case at all that I can tell. It feels pretty smooth when I run my finger across it so I think it’ll be good

[brando brap@youtube.com]

Ok I am halfway done with the razor blade and it hasn’t gouged the case at all that I can tell. It feels pretty smooth when I run my finger across it so I think it’ll be good

If you can’t feel it with your nail it’s probably good general rule of thumb

[KnotAPro]

On ‎6‎/‎30‎/‎2019 at 11:15 AM, Trenton Barnett said:

Ok I’m glad to hear that the cases are fine to use. If they weren’t I prolly would part the bike out. And the crank that was in it was a wiseco. It seems fine but I was gonna replace it anyways because of heard nothing but bad things about them. I can get a good used oem crank off of eBay for around 100$. I think I might go that route.

There is a company that bought out Wiseco. In the past Wiseco was crap because of nearly zero QA during speedy overseas manufacturing pumping out product standards. Supposedly the Wiseco factory started producing their crank in the good ole' USA which in turn "we" would be using a Quality Assurance Standard that separates us from the (Made in China) personification.

I am currently running a HotRod crank / OEM Piston in my RM125 and I run the schit out of the bike. I am at the beginning of building an engine with a Wiseco Crankshaft and Piston. I am doing my own study of this phinonimum "misspelled" of whose Aftermarket Crank is worth a schit. My next engine will have a rebuild crank with a Wossner Connecting Rod rebuilt crank and Wossner Piston configuration. My last engine in this study with have an OEM crankshaft from a blown engine and Pro-X Piston. All these engines will be well documented during the builds and all the NOTES with the Break-In Process and the following 15 hour ride time of running the schit out of the bike.

I know some people hate Yellow Dirt Bikes but the Members and Newbies on TT are always discussing/chattering about whose crank is the best.

Yepper, ancient aftermarket crankshaft are junk in both of the popular brand. I read all that too. There might be some serious hope for us all who can't afford the OEM cranks. So for those of you reading this one stayed tuned for my full on report of my Build(s) in the Suzuki RM125 2-stroke forum coming soon.

I won't have any questions of my own during the build(s) so TT won't be shooting out an e-mail with my Topic in it. If you shoot me a (message) then I will keep you abreast of when I start my Topic related to """"Building"""" a Suzuki RM125 Engine.   

[Trenton Barnett]

9 hours ago, KnotAPro said:

There is a company that bought out Wiseco. In the past Wiseco was crap because of nearly zero QA during speedy overseas manufacturing pumping out product standards. Supposedly the Wiseco factory started producing their crank in the good ole' USA which in turn "we" would be using a Quality Assurance Standard that separates us from the (Made in China) personification.

I am currently running a HotRod crank / OEM Piston in my RM125 and I run the schit out of the bike. I am at the beginning of building an engine with a Wiseco Crankshaft and Piston. I am doing my own study of this phinonimum "misspelled" of whose Aftermarket Crank is worth a schit. My next engine will have a rebuild crank with a Wossner Connecting Rod rebuilt crank and Wossner Piston configuration. My last engine in this study with have an OEM crankshaft from a blown engine and Pro-X Piston. All these engines will be well documented during the builds and all the NOTES with the Break-In Process and the following 15 hour ride time of running the schit out of the bike.

I know some people hate Yellow Dirt Bikes but the Members and Newbies on TT are always discussing/chattering about whose crank is the best.

Yepper, ancient aftermarket crankshaft are junk in both of the popular brand. I read all that too. There might be some serious hope for us all who can't afford the OEM cranks. So for those of you reading this one stayed tuned for my full on report of my Build(s) in the Suzuki RM125 2-stroke forum coming soon.

I won't have any questions of my own during the build(s) so TT won't be shooting out an e-mail with my Topic in it. If you shoot me a (message) then I will keep you abreast of when I start my Topic related to """"Building"""" a Suzuki RM125 Engine.   

I will definitely keep up with how each bike holds up that sounds very interesting. 

You sound like you have a lot of experience with bike engines so if you have seen the pictures that I posted above do you think that the cases will be fine to use if I clean them up really well and get rid of any jagged edges or rough spots?

[KnotAPro]

20 hours ago, Trenton Barnett said:

I will definitely keep up with how each bike holds up that sounds very interesting. 

You sound like you have a lot of experience with bike engines so if you have seen the pictures that I posted above do you think that the cases will be fine to use if I clean them up really well and get rid of any jagged edges or rough spots?

For me time is money and money is time. So if you have plenty of time to get the gouging out and no crank half's friction to the casing you would be fine with a 4stroke engine. It is suggested by most builders to replace crank bearings no matter how good they feel. Your Aftermarket crankshaft Kit should have bearings included in the kit. Or buy a cheap set from R/M. Gasket surfaces are very important in my book. I am one of those guys who follows the OEM Manual. The OEM casing gasket or Athena gaskets are a primium choice to me. Especially if the OEM has rubber in it. To me Wiseco gasket kits are schit, just an opinion. Now if that was a 2-stroke engine casings I'd be leery of that much gouging. I've worked with nuclear engineers before and there were milecular movement conversations. Fuel oil premix gas vapor in the combustion chamber is nuclear to me. Ever wonder why it is machined smooth? 

I bought casings from eBay that have gouging too. Less than yours. I too will be grinding them out to be as smooth as possible. Another test platform of one of the engine builds. One thing I don't agree on is in the gear box it crapped out gears. I don't mean the teeth per say but where the gears slip into each other. Rounded off dog ears and or lead/exiting edges of the holes means miss shifts or shifts dropping back down a gear. Shift forks tolerances and the gear groove the operate in cause that symptom too.

I am pretty sure you are up to speed of most of what I've written. Saving money is one thing but short cuts can bite you too. I'd say a $250 bike is one hell of a buy. But shuving $1000 in it will barely make it perform better than a pitbike to do restrooms run on. Just an opinion. I take it, this bike will get flipped or be a pitbike. I didn't read this whole thread so excuse me if I missed something.

Sorry! For being long winded...

 

 

[Trenton Barnett]

On 7/2/2019 at 10:03 PM, KnotAPro said:

For me time is money and money is time. So if you have plenty of time to get the gouging out and no crank half's friction to the casing you would be fine with a 4stroke engine. It is suggested by most builders to replace crank bearings no matter how good they feel. Your Aftermarket crankshaft Kit should have bearings included in the kit. Or buy a cheap set from R/M. Gasket surfaces are very important in my book. I am one of those guys who follows the OEM Manual. The OEM casing gasket or Athena gaskets are a primium choice to me. Especially if the OEM has rubber in it. To me Wiseco gasket kits are schit, just an opinion. Now if that was a 2-stroke engine casings I'd be leery of that much gouging. I've worked with nuclear engineers before and there were milecular movement conversations. Fuel oil premix gas vapor in the combustion chamber is nuclear to me. Ever wonder why it is machined smooth? 

I bought casings from eBay that have gouging too. Less than yours. I too will be grinding them out to be as smooth as possible. Another test platform of one of the engine builds. One thing I don't agree on is in the gear box it crapped out gears. I don't mean the teeth per say but where the gears slip into each other. Rounded off dog ears and or lead/exiting edges of the holes means miss shifts or shifts dropping back down a gear. Shift forks tolerances and the gear groove the operate in cause that symptom too.

I am pretty sure you are up to speed of most of what I've written. Saving money is one thing but short cuts can bite you too. I'd say a $250 bike is one hell of a buy. But shuving $1000 in it will barely make it perform better than a pitbike to do restrooms run on. Just an opinion. I take it, this bike will get flipped or be a pitbike. I didn't read this whole thread so excuse me if I missed something.

Sorry! For being long winded...

 

 

Yes the bike is gonna be flipped but I’ll mess around on it until it sells. I just got the cases together and everything went ok. I cleaned everything out best I could and got a new oil strainer and valve. I got a good used oem crank to put in it and it feels a whole lot better than the wiseco. It is also much quieter when spinning it. For the gasket I used one I got out of a kit, it was tusk brand. They had good reviews and seem like good quality but I’ll see if it holds up or not. The kit was around 60$ cheaper than an oem kit or vertex kit so I couldn’t pass it up. The only thing that I am unsure about though is now that the cases together and all the bolts are tightened, the crank has a little side to side movement in the cases. I don’t know if this is normal or not but I think I’m just gonna  send it. I am on hold right now though until I get a torque wrench for important bolts like ones inside the cases and head bolts etc. I should have it ready to run here in about a week. Hopefully it fires right up and has no issues.