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Looking back on all my upgrades, is the DRZ worth it?

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Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, ktmenvy said:

Check out this video for another take on a "lightweight" adventure bike.     

 

 

   Too bad Honda doesn't make it as a Mini Africa Twin already set up like that.         430 pounds is the wet weight.    My girlfriend has the 500 rebel with the same motor/transmission.   Its a really well set up motor/transmission it just does its thing and you never need to worry.

Edited by Barry Ries
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20 hours ago, Beta300recat said:

The Honda or the BMW will never come close to the Suzuki for reliability. 

This is simply not true, the Suzi has her own issues, none particularly better than the others.

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15 minutes ago, shuswap1 said:

This is simply not true, the Suzi has her own issues, none particularly better than the others.

False.

Suzuki's are far more reliable than BMW's or Hondas.

Electrical ALONE makes the Suzuki more reliable than the BMW. :smirk:

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12 minutes ago, shuswap1 said:

This is simply not true, the Suzi has her own issues, none particularly better than the others.

  When I've had a machine for awhile and I get to know and understand her I will usually catch potential problems before anything terrible happens.  I also get familiar with the way things go together so that repairs seem a lot less troublesome.   With unfamiliar machines there are always surprises and working on stuff always seems more difficult.  Though I did warm up to my DRZ really quickly and everything so far seems really straight forward

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5 hours ago, dad2u said:

This thread is too much fun to miss.  You need to sit down and do a ride needs assessment, which should have been done 15000$ ago!

I had a 2005 KLR for 8 years, and loved it...and rode the hell out of it off road: my buddies on their KTM's called it "the tractor" as it would chug chug up and through the most amazing stuff...but I was pushing it way too hard off road for its capabilities.  It was solid on the slab, and rode two up just fine with my wife.  (I had two sets of wheels, a tall and short windscreen, etc and a Corbin seat).   This bike weighs 400lbs plus, and can be picked up when it tips over, but is a job.  Inexpensive, has tons of advice and parts avail, rides 2 up okay, does fine on slab, gravel, and can be pushed into pretty gnarly stuff but is a challenge.

My analysis, which led to tears in my eyes as I really had a relationship with "Red" my name for my tractor, was that I needed a lighter and more capable off-road machine, as that is where my interests were pushing me.  I did not wish to abandon DS and go to trail, as I truly enjoy the hard cornering on good twisty slab, but really enjoy that mud/boulder climb to the top.  Accordingly, I got a DRZ and am super happy: it is far lighter to pick up, comes with enough power stock to do lots of very aggressive off-road, and has the same cult-following/world team of expert advice, cheap and readily avail parts, etc.  It does not do 2 up...although I custom built a seat that extends the custom seat (installs in 2 minutes) and my wife is happy on it for day rides.  It does not willingly do some of the most difficult trail stuff, and does not have the jump to wheelie without forcing it.  Perfect fit for me.

Many folks are dedicated to remaking their DRZ into something else...which to me indicates a failure to do the needs assessment I already alluded to.  If more power is your thing, then possibly you should consider any of the most excellent hard core trail machines (which come with a high cost and high maintenance schedule) rather than buying the cheaper DRZ and then spending a ton remaking it.  I am not sure that many of us can reengineer the DRZ to surpass the performance of the high end machines for a cheaper cost, and even if we do, we end up with a one-off machine and are on our own for repair/maintenance etc.  The stock DRZ, with some guards on it, is a dang good DS machine for pretty aggressive DS riding, one up.

From your points I glean: you talk about fast riding on slab, about 2 up, you are looking at BMW (heavier, much less capable off road, great slab and two up: I rented one for a day in Germany and my wife and I did a day of twisty slabs with local family members and dragged my sneakers on the pavement in the turns, what a blast....but no way would I ever consider taking this off-road where I like to ride)  or VSTROM: again smooth, heavy good 2 up, not capable for the tough off road.  Etc.  These bikes are all heavier, faster, better two up, smoother, and thus are ADV touring, etc. bikes, but not aggressive DS.  The DRZ is a great aggressive DS bike for one rider.  

You bought the wrong bike, and had fun modding it.  You really should consider liquidating the accessories you can unmod, and selling the bike.....and finding the fit for your true riding desires.

BTW, I am in Ottawa....and might be tempted by some of the mods...ha ha.  Where are you located?

 

Do you have pictures of this seat extension? I've been wanting to do something like that for my girlfriend so we can go on longer rides. I have an extra seat pan and the stock foam and cover, was trying to think of a way to incorporate that maybe 

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9 hours ago, superdutyscaler said:

I'm still trying to figure out where your parts added are worth 5k?

I still trying to figure out how more than half of those "upgrades" would not be needed on ANY new bike?!

 

Saying you bought the wrong bike for what you do is fine. But blaming the cost of farkles (many that are needed on any new bike) on it not being "worth" it is puzzling.  Many people enjoy the time installing new items on bikes and would not really consider the "cost"  in terms of money lost.

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3 hours ago, maxpower1970 said:

I still trying to figure out how more than half of those "upgrades" would not be needed on ANY new bike?!

 

Saying you bought the wrong bike for what you do is fine. But blaming the cost of farkles (many that are needed on any new bike) on it not being "worth" it is puzzling.  Many people enjoy the time installing new items on bikes and would not really consider the "cost"  in terms of money lost.

True. I think that the OP was just venting a bit (and exaggerating the costs in the process). One thing is certain though: he bought the wrong bike for his stated goals. Most of us have done the same thing at one point or another, I'm sure.

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On ‎7‎/‎12‎/‎2019 at 10:40 AM, ohiodrz400sm said:

Sounds like you need a street bike as opposed to a dirt bike. How about a Yamaha FZ09?

MT-09 SE (the one with the olins active rear shock)  On my shopping list for next March.  I love the upright riding position and bonkers power (all kinds of power in Jay Leno speak).  Also conforms to motorbikes having an odd number of cylinders, 3 in this case. I'll never sell the DRZ though - way to much fun and tinkering to be had.   

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Two completely different bikes.

Would you rather go out and make your own burrito at Chipotle or go to Gordon Ramsey's Restaurant with a set menu?

None of those options are the wrong choice, it just depends on what you feel like eating, if you want Ramsey's food then chipotle is just going to fell like a waste of money.

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 I like to do the no/low cost mods. After owning my bone stock E for 4or5years, I 3x3'd, re-jetted and un-corked the muffler. Having the extra oomph is nice, but the bike's a little loud now. Looking back, the bike was fine in stock form, kinda wished I had left it

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6 minutes ago, Dmouse said:

 I like to do the no/low cost mods. After owning my bone stock E for 4or5years, I 3x3'd, re-jetted and un-corked the muffler. Having the extra oomph is nice, but the bike's a little loud now. Looking back, the bike was fine in stock form, kinda wished I had left it

An overly loud bike not only pisses the neighbors off, it makes it not pleasant to ride imo.  Prob plenty of stock drz exhausts to be had on ebay if you keep a look out :thumbsup:

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2 minutes ago, timmy.g said:

An overly loud bike not only pisses the neighbors off, it makes it not pleasant to ride imo.  Prob plenty of stock drz exhausts to be had on ebay if you keep a look out :thumbsup:

 I actually have a spare exhaust tip that I could throw on, I'd have to go back to something close to stock jetting though. I had a miserable time removing/installing the FCR to re-jet, I don't plan on taking that carb back off unless I absolutely have to, like for a different issue

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Like a lot of others have said, if you can take off a lot of the goodies you've added to the bike and sell them separately then you can at least recoup some cash when you decide to sell the bike.  Get it as close to bone stock as possible (if you've saved those parts, lol).  I've sold a lot of bikes over the years and noticed that most buyers usually aren't overly enamored with aftermarket goodies.  A lot of times it just makes the bike look more used.  I've taken stuff off some of my bikes and returned them to stock when I've sold them and... well, I keep meaning to put that stuff on ebay, but it's still sitting out in the garage years later. lol.

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Just now, Dmouse said:

 I actually have a spare exhaust tip that I could throw on, I'd have to go back to something close to stock jetting though. I had a miserable time removing/installing the FCR to re-jet, I don't plan on taking that carb back off unless I absolutely have to, like for a different issue

yeah i hear you.  A glass filled silencer usually sounds much better than a stock pipe that's been chopped/modded.  I don't know how loud yours is, but I have seen some chopped/hacked ones that became unbearably loud.

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2 minutes ago, timmy.g said:

yeah i hear you.  A glass filled silencer usually sounds much better than a stock pipe that's been chopped/modded.  I don't know how loud yours is, but I have seen some chopped/hacked ones that became unbearably loud.

 Mine's not overly loud, I didn't 'hack' mine, I used a 1 3/8" holesaw on the tailpipe. It does a very clean job, and the spark arrestor stays intact. I have the spare tip cuz the inspector that approved my bike when I plated it initially said it was too loud, so I bought the spare, threw it on, got clearance, put the modified tip back on. I re-jetted before I drilled out the tailpipe, and I started fouling my sparkplug from being too rich... un-corking the muffler cured that, plus it had the big power jump I was looking for (then)

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9 minutes ago, Dmouse said:

 Mine's not overly loud, I didn't 'hack' mine, I used a 1 3/8" holesaw on the tailpipe. It does a very clean job, and the spark arrestor stays intact. I have the spare tip cuz the inspector that approved my bike when I plated it initially said it was too loud, so I bought the spare, threw it on, got clearance, put the modified tip back on. I re-jetted before I drilled out the tailpipe, and I started fouling my sparkplug from being too rich... un-corking the muffler cured that, plus it had the big power jump I was looking for (then)

Oh nice.  I still have this memory in my head of the time I test drove an old dr350 where someone had hacked the pipe--they basically just cut out all the baffling by cutting the end off the pipe with a hacksaw, so it was just a big hollow tube.  Man, that thing was horrible obnoxious loud.  It was a super clean bike besides that, but I didn't buy it.  If I recall it was one of the kick-start-only offroad dr350's.

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Posted (edited)
23 hours ago, superdutyscaler said:

I'm still trying to figure out where your parts added are worth 5k?

Keep in mind it's $5000 CAD worth of upgrades.  Here's the upgrades list with prices for all you skeptics! ? 

Upgrade Costs (Total $5195 CAD)

  • 3x3 airbox mod - $0
  • UNI Air Filter - $35
  • JD Jet Kit - $100
  • FMF Powerbomb Header & FMF Q4 Exhaust - $950
  • Seat Concepts Seat - $550
  • Scots Steering Stabilizer - $850
  • Galfer USA Oversized Front Rotor, Sintered brake pads & Stainless steel brake line - $500
  • Aluminum skid plate - $135
  • Bark Busters - $195
  • Pro Taper Bars - $130
  • Tusk Pannier Racks - $225
  • Nelson Riggs Soft Bags - $260
  • Top Rack - $100
  • Aluminum Rad Guards - $150
  • Denali Sound Bomb Horn - $150
  • KLX Headlight Shroud - $40
  • HID Headlight bulb - $100
  • Edge 2 Fender Eliminator - $75
  • Continental TKC80 Tires with Motion Pro Rim Locks - $400
  • TT Case Savers - $75
  • USB charging port and RAM phone mount $100
  • UFO Front Fender - $75
  • Countershaft Loctite Fix - $0
  • Stator and Starter Clutch Loctite Fixes - $0
  • Side-stand kill switch removal - $0
Edited by trekker
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13 hours ago, maxpower1970 said:

I still trying to figure out how more than half of those "upgrades" would not be needed on ANY new bike?!

 

Saying you bought the wrong bike for what you do is fine. But blaming the cost of farkles (many that are needed on any new bike) on it not being "worth" it is puzzling.  Many people enjoy the time installing new items on bikes and would not really consider the "cost"  in terms of money lost.

On a new F800GS Adventure for example (which I'm looking at) I wouldn't need almost all the upgrades I've done on my DRZ.  The F800 either already has the upgrade or doesn't have any need for it.

  • 3x3 airbox mod
  • UNI Air Filter
  • JD Jet Kit
  • FMF Powerbomb Header
  • FMF Q4 Exhaust
  • Seat Concepts Seat
  • Scots Steering Stabilizer
  • Galfer USA Oversized Front Rotor
  • Galfer USA Sintered brake pads
  • Galfer USA Stainless steel braided brake line
  • Bark Busters
  • Pro Taper Bars
  • Tusk Pannier Racks
  • Top Rack
  • KLX Headlight Shroud
  • HID Headlight bulb
  • Continental TKC80 Tires with Motion Pro Rim Locks
  • TT Case Savers
  • UFO Front Fender
  • Countershaft Loctite Fix
  • Stator and Starter Clutch Loctite Fixes

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7 hours ago, Dmouse said:

 I like to do the no/low cost mods. After owning my bone stock E for 4or5years, I 3x3'd, re-jetted and un-corked the muffler. Having the extra oomph is nice, but the bike's a little loud now. Looking back, the bike was fine in stock form, kinda wished I had left it

I bought an exhaust tip for my kicker model from ebay and it really opened up the flow, but I couldn't tell much difference in sound.  It's still way quieter than my son's XR400 with similar modded stock exhaust. 

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