Jump to content

Tire leak after change

By yz_mik3,
in Yamaha 2 Stroke

 Share

Recommended Posts

Mentor

Captain.Olives

Posted
Posted (edited)

I've used the no pinch tool, wasnt that impressed with it to be honest.  With a little practice and the right tools, I really dont see the need for it.  Some folks swear by them.  Just my experience.  

I use STI tubes exclusively, mostly a mix of the 2 and 3mm ones.   For the money, they cant be beat IMO.  We did encounter the odd clean seem rip on a rear 4mm last winter with one of the riders on my annual Baja trip.  The tube cleanly separated.  Cant explain it.  Been using them for nearly a decade and still using them. 

Your leak is definitely a pinch.  A couple pieces of advice.  First, I rarely use a tire iron anywhere near the valve stem.  In my workshop, I'll add air to the tube before spooning on the the second bead to ensure I have the tube inserted properly, then deflate before spooning on the second bead.  Only takes 2 minutes and worth the time IMO.  Second,  I'll start there where you can push the second bead on by hand around the valve and finish the bead somewhere 90 degrees to either side of the valve stem, neither at the valve stem nor directly 180 opposite.   Everyone has there process, some vary, thats just what works for me and I change a lot of tubes and tires every year.   I will also reuse low hour tubes.  

Lastly, the right tools make all the difference.  In my garage I have a valve stem puller to pull the stem through the rim, a K&L Tire Tamer (both make getting the tube in and straight easy), a bead buddy, at least three long tire irons (not the short trail tools), some baby powder for the tube and inside of tire, and a spray bottle of soapy water to lube the bead.  Unlike WD40 or other oils, soapy water drys fast and doesnt leave the bead/rim slippery.   

Edited by Captain.Olives
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Grand Master

YZDOC

Posted
Posted
12 hours ago, Captain.Olives said:

I've used the no pinch tool, wasnt that impressed with it to be honest.  With a little practice and the right tools, I really dont see the need for it.  Some folks swear by them.  Just my experience.  

I use STI tubes exclusively, mostly a mix of the 2 and 3mm ones.   For the money, they cant be beat IMO.  We did encounter the odd clean seem rip on a rear 4mm last winter with one of the riders on my annual Baja trip.  The tube cleanly separated.  Cant explain it.  Been using them for nearly a decade and still using them. 

Your leak is definitely a pinch.  A couple pieces of advice.  First, I rarely use a tire iron anywhere near the valve stem.  In my workshop, I'll add air to the tube before spooning on the the second bead to ensure I have the tube inserted properly, then deflate before spooning on the second bead.  Only takes 2 minutes and worth the time IMO.  Second,  I'll start there where you can push the second bead on by hand around the valve and finish the bead somewhere 90 degrees to either side of the valve stem, neither at the valve stem nor directly 180 opposite.   Everyone has there process, some vary, thats just what works for me and I change a lot of tubes and tires every year.   I will also reuse low hour tubes.  

Lastly, the right tools make all the difference.  In my garage I have a valve stem puller to pull the stem through the rim, a K&L Tire Tamer (both make getting the tube in and straight easy), a bead buddy, at least three long tire irons (not the short trail tools), some baby powder for the tube and inside of tire, and a spray bottle of soapy water to lube the bead.  Unlike WD40 or other oils, soapy water drys fast and doesnt leave the bead/rim slippery.   

Some good info, almost the same, and everyone does have their own way, but I end at the bead lock and start at the valve stem. KTM for some stupid reason puts them 4 spokes apart. I also used to use soapy water, but soapy water reacts to water crossing and WD-40 (NEVER OTHER OILS) is all ready dry by the time you hit the trails. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Rising Star

yz_mik3

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I got the tires on but I found out that the front hub is too big for the axle. The brake rotor is also bigger so I assume it was probably on a 450. I bought them off eBay. There is also a lot of space between the hub and end of the axle almost like it needs bigger spacers. Any way to fix this?
IMG_4721.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Grand Master

YZDOC

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, yz_mik3 said:

I got the tires on but I found out that the front hub is too big for the axle. The brake rotor is also bigger so I assume it was probably on a 450. I bought them off eBay. There is also a lot of space between the hub and end of the axle almost like it needs bigger spacers. Any way to fix this?
IMG_4721.JPG

Call RMATV and ask if the bearings are different from the bike they were on, to the bike you put them on. Could be easy fix.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Grand Master

YZDOC

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, yz_mik3 said:

Do they make sleeves that you can put on your axle to make them a little bigger?

ID correct, OD wrong?

Measure and/or bring wheel to bearing shop. I am sure you will find what you need if you know the size of ID/OD/WDTH.

Do you have seals for those wheels?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
Grand Master

YZDOC

Posted
Posted
14 minutes ago, yz_mik3 said:

Turns out I’m gonna have to buy a new hub that fits. I would need a 20mm Id x 39 Od bearings for this hub to work? Is there any way to true a wheel without the stand? If not I I’ll just buy the tusk stand.

On the bike with a zip tie as your guide. No chain if doing the rear.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

ThumperTalk

Register a new account Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing
×
×
  • Create New...
Terms of Use
Copyright
Privacy Policy