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mbw479

Aer 48 holding down

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Just noticed my husky sitting low in the front, it is sitting 100mm too low. When I remove the bleeders I can pull it back up, but it drops straight down again. I have seen this is a common issue, does anyone know the fix?

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Yes ,there are some fixes ,it involves pumping them up to a high pressure and pulling them up

Try 175psi

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Yes ,there are some fixes ,it involves pumping them up to a high pressure and pulling them up

Try 175psi

Tried that one at 180psi, I have since read up too 250psi....seems risky. Going to disassemble then reassemble and see if I can find a problem. If not clean and reassemble and see what happens 🤷‍♂️

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you need to remove the base bolt adapter on the bottom of the cartridge in order to purge the negative chamber - which means a fair bit of dissassembly.  

You likely need a new (or updated) piston seal in the cartridge anyway - which is why it was stuck down in the first place.

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I have the same issue on my 2017 TC 125, AER 48 forks are new to me, is the negative chamber on both sides or just left side ?

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you need to remove the base bolt adapter on the bottom of the cartridge in order to purge the negative chamber - which means a fair bit of dissassembly.  
You likely need a new (or updated) piston seal in the cartridge anyway - which is why it was stuck down in the first place.

Yeah you’re onto it, I got it sorted. Not a cheap part. IMG_0967.JPG

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Why is it like that ?

To unscrew the nut above the plastic you have to melt the excessive amount of locktite used on the tread, repair was completed by ktm dealer. Apparently this is normal.

Replacing the fork seals on these is simple, but opening that inner chamber is not.

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14 hours ago, mbw479 said:


To unscrew the nut above the plastic you have to melt the excessive amount of locktite used on the tread, repair was completed by ktm dealer. Apparently this is normal.

Replacing the fork seals on these is simple, but opening that inner chamber is not.

Nonsense, you just have a ham fisted mechanic who used WAAAAAY too much heat.  Done properly you will neither melt the seals, nor the plastic top out spring guide.  There are a few other parts to update in the old style cartridge (the melted part is one of them) but you should be looking at ~$100, NOT the whole cartridge rod assembly.  

BTW, I have over 230 hours on my OEM '18 aer forks, and the cartridge has been apart 3 or 4 times.  Original seals, seal head, etc....

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Nonsense, you just have a ham fisted mechanic who used WAAAAAY too much heat.  Done properly you will neither melt the seals, nor the plastic top out spring guide.  There are a few other parts to update in the old style cartridge (the melted part is one of them) but you should be looking at ~$100, NOT the whole cartridge rod assembly.  
BTW, I have over 230 hours on my OEM '18 aer forks, and the cartridge has been apart 3 or 4 times.  Original seals, seal head, etc....

Interesting, do you use locktite when you put it back together? How do you hold the inner tube when undoing the nut from it?

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21 hours ago, bikedude987 said:

Nonsense, you just have a ham fisted mechanic who used WAAAAAY too much heat.  Done properly you will neither melt the seals, nor the plastic top out spring guide.  There are a few other parts to update in the old style cartridge (the melted part is one of them) but you should be looking at ~$100, NOT the whole cartridge rod assembly.  

BTW, I have over 230 hours on my OEM '18 aer forks, and the cartridge has been apart 3 or 4 times.  Original seals, seal head, etc....

question, what level and type of ridding ? 

The reason I ask is I had my 2018 AER modded and one of the things I was told was that the piston seals in the stock fork dont last long for expert/pros in MX use. 

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They do 50 hours , at pro use maybe 20 but that's top-level mx riding

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