New WR250R Owner

[wmx124]

1 hour ago, Yamaguy55 said:

Are you missing the small sub-fender that keeps the crap off of the shock?

If so, get one and put it back on unless you like to frequently rebuild your shock. 

I have it. Just haven't put it back on the bike yet.

[Monica]

I like the Galfer lines, used them on a previous bike.  Which cut bars did you go with?  How'd they change from stock if any?

For handguards on mine are Zetas with the integrated blinker.  They're ok, but they look like the bike has wings or ears.  I like Acerbis rallys better though for style.  I use them on my TTR with a 6" bright LED strip for blinkers.  

And right now the mirrors are stock.  For me and my size they provide decent vision around me.  If I break them though I'll splurge on double takes.

[Yamaguy55]

10 hours ago, Monica said:

I like the Galfer lines, used them on a previous bike.  Which cut bars did you go with?  How'd they change from stock if any?

For handguards on mine are Zetas with the integrated blinker.  They're ok, but they look like the bike has wings or ears.  I like Acerbis rallys better though for style.  I use them on my TTR with a 6" bright LED strip for blinkers.  

And right now the mirrors are stock.  For me and my size they provide decent vision around me.  If I break them though I'll splurge on double takes.

I got the Zetas as part of a larger order from WCS. A family member took a short ride and managed to do one of the "find the spot with the front and back wheels on a high ground with the center much lower" deals. Results as expected the you are stopped and can't reach the ground - a tip over. That got me a tweaked set of bars and a bent handle. I'm concerned less with the look than the function, and I like the mounting to the top triple clamp for the inboard mount- very robust.  I had them on the original bars at first with the inboard bar mount, and went back and got the triple mount after I changed the bars. Much improved. 

Of all things I have the ATV High bars. They were leftovers on fall sale at the local shop. I had been looking for higher bars as I'm not the tallest person you'll meet. Being the standard Pro-Taper design/material, I just used a standard pipe cutter to lop off the ends- makes a nice square cut that is basically finished when done. The bend ended up being ideal for me. I got the Yamaha fat bar handlebar clamps and used them. The only downside is now that not only are the bars aluminum and stiffer, but the additional mounting point to the triple clamps adds yet even more stiffness. So I inadvertently added some bar end vibration that I didn't have previously. The grips absorb most of the felt part of it, but the mirrors are now a bit blurry. But the setup is so superior in every other way that I don't mind. The WRR's vibration "flavor" doesn't bother me anywhere near as much as four cylinder bikes. Those put my hands to sleep.

The stock mirrors are plenty tough. many change them as they think they aren't The replacements are slightly wider and slightly lower. The real advantage is that I already had them. I tried them out and thought that they were incrementally better for me, so I just left them on. I doubt I'd have gone out and bought a set. 

[wmx124]

Pulled the coolant drain bolt last night and nothing came out. Sucked out as much coolant as I could from the radiator filler neck. I'm guessing the coolant has gelled. The coolant in the radiator was still liquid and a nasty brown/black color. Will running the engine cause the coolant to liquefy and allow me to drain it or do I need to do some kind of pressurized flush?

[Wallowa]

Think about that...if coolant will not drain out and is indeed gelled it can not cool the motor....willing to gamble?  Do what is needed to extract that crap from the reservoir and radiator/lines.  

[wmx124]

Think about that...if coolant will not drain out and is indeed gelled it can not cool the motor....willing to gamble?  Do what is needed to extract that crap from the reservoir and radiator/lines.  

Radiator and reservoir are liquid, not gel. I’m speculating the gel theory.... Any other reason why it wouldn’t drain from the drain plug?

[Wallowa]

I was going with your statement that "I'm guessing the coolant has gelled."  If vented and liquid the coolant should drain out; otherwise something is blocking the drain point.  Perhaps not a viscous gel but something such as metal or rubber from the system.  Mine are pure WAGs.

[Yamaguy55]

I think I'd investigate the reason it won't drain before proceeding. It could just be residue in that bolt hole. If the cooling system is in rough shape, consider at least changing the hoses and flush it with distilled water several times. It holds so little coolant that two gallons of distilled water would easily flush it multiple times. Pulling the hose off of the top of the pump and the bottom of that radiator would also work, but you would be  disturbing the seal, so may not be the first choice. But that drain bolt should drain, so why is it not draining? 

You're supposed to change the hoses periodically. I did mine a few years back and went with the Samco silicone ones, plus Evans coolant. 

Back to the coolant: what could make it dark? Failing water pump seal? Contamination introduced?  Mine was very clean. It was just time for new coolant and hoses. I've never seen ethylene glycol based coolant gel, although I suppose it could. When it gets nasty, I'd look for why. I drained the coolant from a 1997 F150 about four years ago, it looked close to what the new stuff looked like. So discoloration is a big deal. Especially considering just how little coolant there is.

If you're going to do a thorough job: get new hoses as well as a new gasket for the water pump cover. Pull the cover off of the pump and take a good look in there. Who knows what's going on if you don't. Wouldn't do to leave it uninvestigated and find out in a remote place that the water pump disintegrated or the seal went and added coolant to your engine oil. 

Edited August 28, 2019 by Yamaguy55

[Monica]

On 8/27/2019 at 6:00 AM, Yamaguy55 said:

I got the Zetas as part of a larger order from WCS. A family member took a short ride and managed to do one of the "find the spot with the front and back wheels on a high ground with the center much lower" deals. Results as expected the you are stopped and can't reach the ground - a tip over. That got me a tweaked set of bars and a bent handle. I'm concerned less with the look than the function, and I like the mounting to the top triple clamp for the inboard mount- very robust.  I had them on the original bars at first with the inboard bar mount, and went back and got the triple mount after I changed the bars. Much improved. 

Of all things I have the ATV High bars. They were leftovers on fall sale at the local shop. I had been looking for higher bars as I'm not the tallest person you'll meet. Being the standard Pro-Taper design/material, I just used a standard pipe cutter to lop off the ends- makes a nice square cut that is basically finished when done. The bend ended up being ideal for me. I got the Yamaha fat bar handlebar clamps and used them. The only downside is now that not only are the bars aluminum and stiffer, but the additional mounting point to the triple clamps adds yet even more stiffness. So I inadvertently added some bar end vibration that I didn't have previously. The grips absorb most of the felt part of it, but the mirrors are now a bit blurry. But the setup is so superior in every other way that I don't mind. The WRR's vibration "flavor" doesn't bother me anywhere near as much as four cylinder bikes. Those put my hands to sleep.

The stock mirrors are plenty tough. many change them as they think they aren't The replacements are slightly wider and slightly lower. The real advantage is that I already had them. I tried them out and thought that they were incrementally better for me, so I just left them on. I doubt I'd have gone out and bought a set. 

I can vouch for the toughness on the Zetas.  Took a slip on a water crossing.  They protected the bike fine with a little rash on the guard.  Although had an ouchie to repair that wasn't as expected.  The inside mount/bar knocked the brake line loose off the master cylinder.  We had to do a quick little repair before continuing on the trail.  From that experience if I could give any advice for any handguard syle, double check there is a little room between the brake line and the hand guard.  I've had a few boo boos but this was the first time I have knocked loose the brake line so probably a low chance thing, but I'm aware going forward.

On the bar height, I've thought about a slightly taller set, I'm not tall either but it's crossed my mind to try.  I'm still looking but in no rush yet.  

 

17 hours ago, wmx124 said:

Pulled the coolant drain bolt last night and nothing came out. Sucked out as much coolant as I could from the radiator filler neck. I'm guessing the coolant has gelled. The coolant in the radiator was still liquid and a nasty brown/black color. Will running the engine cause the coolant to liquefy and allow me to drain it or do I need to do some kind of pressurized flush?

I wouldn't run the bike sans the cooling system.  I think a flush would be good.  I'd capture the old stuff and inspect it, maybe it'll provide clues.  I second the suggestion to replace parts while you're in there.  If the work you've already done by removing some gnarly parts are an indication as to the bike's condition,  I wouldn't chance letting those go without attention.

[wmx124]

A small shot of compressed air in the drain hole solved the coolant problem. No signs of gelled coolant. Must have been a deposit or debris. Used a coolant system cleaner followed by 2 distilled water flushed and filled with engine ice. Oil change with a new magnetic drain plug and reinstalled the skid plate.

[Yamaguy55]

What rubber is on that bike?

[wmx124]

6 minutes ago, Yamaguy55 said:

What rubber is on that bike?

Michelin T63s currently. I have a set of Bridgestones ready to go on.

[Gooney]

On 8/12/2019 at 5:03 AM, wmx124 said:

Chain is rusted out. Found the master link clip embedded in mud behind the front sprocket guard. Coolant is black. Left fork leg is leaking fluid. Looks like I have an aftermarket fuel tank though.

Wait these tanks are aftermarket???? Mine looks lik that

[Gooney]

like* also does anyone have a comparison pic?

[Jens Eskildsen]

Stock is metal, aftermarket is plastic.

[Gooney]

12 minutes ago, Jens Eskildsen said:

Stock is metal, aftermarket is plastic.

really? eBay has OEM ones in the same black plastic look as me and the other guy

[Gooney]

This was how it looked in January... but yea, OEM or Aftermarket?

This is how it looked in April... got rid of all the stunt stuff, added Zeta guards, and did a few more mods... now she looks sick!

[Gooney]

Still a work in progress... sorry for hijacking the thread lmao

https://www.youtube.com/goonrides if you were wondering what Goon Rides is hehe

Edited August 29, 2019 by Gooney

[Wallowa]

We covered the fuel tank ID before...it is an IMS 3 gallon tank/cap/vent and yes it is plastic....what I have and I plan on 190-200 miles; plus two large Primus aluminum fuel bottles which adds about 40 more miles... [60-70 mpg depending on right wrist!]

[Jens Eskildsen]

9 hours ago, Gooney said:

really? eBay has OEM ones in the same black plastic look as me and the other guy

Yes, really ? The 3 gallon IMS looks a bit like the stocker, but is "higher" and very slightly wider. Its easy to tell when you know.

IMS 3 gallon (notice the big "bulge"/raised part on top)

Another clear sign is the threaded gascap