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Questions about my new 390

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Took delivery of my new beta 390rrs about 6 weeks ago and haven't had a chance to take it out.  HOwever, while its in the garage, I have slowly but surely added just about everything to it, except the stabillizer, which is pretty expensive  (yeah, yeah...  I know....  its worth it...)

 

But, I'm getting it ready for the maiden voyage and have a couple of questions,.

1.   I opted to to go with the stock forks with heavier springs for my 210lb weight without gear.  They installed the springs for me of course.    But I am not setting up the shock and all I see in the manual is to set it up for 35mm of static sag.  Is that all that's necessary?   The readings are a little inconsistent.  I think I need to break in the suspension and springs a little.

2.  I have a shinko fatty on the front.  Should I be raising my forks in the clamps just little?  Anybody riding this or any other fatty tire?

3.  Is it me, or is that threads on the rear view mirrors reverse threaded?      Was hoping to mount a ram ball there.  Has anyone done that?

4.  What type of coolant is it that they put in there.  I need to top it off.

5.  riding on the street, I cannot tell the difference with the map switch.  Does it really matter?

6.  most important question:   The rear brake... does it work well?   Keep in mind that I have been riding orange bikes for the past few years.  The rear brakes on KTM's are strong and grabby.  I often think of them as being too strong.  Should I expect to be able to modulate the rear a little more on the Beta?   I want to think that ultimately, the beta rear is better.  Thoughts?

7.  when I set the spring preload, which is on the rebound fork, (right?), should I be able to feel 'clicks'?  Whats that range on that adjustment.

 

Thanks for any insight.  Going to finally take it out and start adjusting it on the trail, where it really matters.

 

Maurice

 

 

 

Edited by Just_a_trail_rider
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6 hours ago, Just_a_trail_rider said:

1.  ... set it up for 35mm of static sag.  Is that all that's necessary?  
FOR CASUAL RIDING, STATIC SAG ALONE IS OK. BUT THE CORRECT WAY IS to also get your rider sag dimension, and then you'll see whether the two numbers fall within your weight. if you get a rider sag that's 30-35% of your total suspension travel, along w/ 25-35mm static,  then your rr spring is in the range for your weight.

2.  I have a shinko fatty on the front.  Should I be raising my forks in the clamps just little?  Anybody riding this or any other fatty tire?

i've gone back and forth between 80 & 90 tire, imo, it's not that much of a difference to require forks adjustment. the few times i thought i needed more bite up front, i typically make my ajdustment either through the rear spring's preload collar, or just turn my rear shock's compression 4-6 clicks firmer, rebound 2-4 clicks softer and that was enough to put more weight on the front tire.

6.  most important question:   The rear brake... does it work well?   Keep in mind that I have been riding orange bikes for the past few years.  The rear brakes on KTM's are strong and grabby.  I often think of them as being too strong.  Should I expect to be able to modulate the rear a little more on the Beta?   I want to think that ultimately, the beta rear is better.  Thoughts?

My 300rr rr brake isn't as rapid acting and strong as my ktm/husaberg.. 300rr has a little slop at the end of the brake lever  hole & pin, which if i fix this, i think the brake lever would invoke sooner. there's a recent post titled brake cleavis (clevis) w/ lots of good info to correct. 
i also ride a beta trials bike, the rr brake on my evo 290 feels similar to my 300rr, soft and progressive (vs. ktm quick grab & strong), so perhaps this is a beta trait. I read that changing out the oem pads to an ebc brand should help increase more  bite.

 

 

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11 hours ago, Just_a_trail_rider said:

4.  What type of coolant is it that they put in there.  I need to top it off.

Top off with distilled water.

Never mix colors of coolant.

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1.   Give it 10 hours or so to break in, mine was pretty harsh initially.  I'm running springs for my weight (per chart) and only set static sag per manual.   For how/where I ride I haven't touched it.

2.  Shouldn't be necessary..

5.  I notice the map switch difference mostly at low RPM/steady speed.  Just seems more sensitive to minor throttle inputs... I pretty much leave it in rain mode. 

6.  I've found the rear brake to be good, easy enough to modulate... no too grabby but easy to lock up when needed.

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18 hours ago, Just_a_trail_rider said:

Took delivery of my new beta 390rrs about 6 weeks ago and haven't had a chance to take it out.  HOwever, while its in the garage, I have slowly but surely added just about everything to it, except the stabillizer, which is pretty expensive  (yeah, yeah...  I know....  its worth it...)

 

But, I'm getting it ready for the maiden voyage and have a couple of questions,.

1.   I opted to to go with the stock forks with heavier springs for my 210lb weight without gear.  They installed the springs for me of course.    But I am not setting up the shock and all I see in the manual is to set it up for 35mm of static sag.  Is that all that's necessary?   The readings are a little inconsistent.  I think I need to break in the suspension and springs a little.

2.  I have a shinko fatty on the front.  Should I be raising my forks in the clamps just little?  Anybody riding this or any other fatty tire?

3.  Is it me, or is that threads on the rear view mirrors reverse threaded?      Was hoping to mount a ram ball there.  Has anyone done that?

4.  What type of coolant is it that they put in there.  I need to top it off.

5.  riding on the street, I cannot tell the difference with the map switch.  Does it really matter?

6.  most important question:   The rear brake... does it work well?   Keep in mind that I have been riding orange bikes for the past few years.  The rear brakes on KTM's are strong and grabby.  I often think of them as being too strong.  Should I expect to be able to modulate the rear a little more on the Beta?   I want to think that ultimately, the beta rear is better.  Thoughts?

7.  when I set the spring preload, which is on the rebound fork, (right?), should I be able to feel 'clicks'?  Whats that range on that adjustment.

 

Thanks for any insight.  Going to finally take it out and start adjusting it on the trail, where it really matters.

 

Maurice

 

 

 

Rad bike! I'm really liking mine. On to your questions:

1) If the springs are right for your weight, I dont think you'll need much preload. I'd get a new rear spring however, I'm the same weight as you and I think I'm running a 5.8 spring in the rear, to get the right rider sag.  Rear sag is more important to get the bike to steer right.

2) I just put on a GT216AA fatty and after riding, decided to drop the forks another line. Haven't tried it out yet, but the bike was noticeably less agile with that big ol front tire on.

3) I dont think so? IIRC I had an old ram ball mount and it went right in to the LH clamp.

4) Not sure, I swapped mine for water wetter after I boiled it over doing some trail crawling. Hoping that'll cool it down better.

5) Makes it a bit more chill if you're tired out, I've found. If you're in some challenging traction conditions, give it a try.

6) Never had any complaints with my rear brake, but I'm not exactly the most aggressive rider.

7) I think the preload just turns, no clicks there. I had my bike with the Beta Factory BYOB suspension from day 1 so it's a little different in adjustment.

Also, I found the 390 to need a longer break in than any other thumper I've owned, after about 25-30 hours it really started to liven up. 

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3 hours ago, ryanb said:

Rad bike! I'm really liking mine. On to your questions:

1) If the springs are right for your weight, I dont think you'll need much preload. I'd get a new rear spring however, I'm the same weight as you and I think I'm running a 5.8 spring in the rear, to get the right rider sag.  Rear sag is more important to get the bike to steer right.

I agree about the rider sag, but the beta manual  I have only shows me about the static sag.   I was smart enough to order the xtrig shock adjuster to simplify the shock preload.  But what is the right amount.  Should I shoot for 100mm?  I am somewhere around 230-235lbs geared up to ride.     I have .54 fork springs and a 6.0 rear shock.   

3 hours ago, ryanb said:

3) I dont think so? IIRC I had an old ram ball mount and it went right in to the LH clamp.

Hmmm.... then I need to try it again

7) I think the preload just turns, no clicks there. I had my bike with the Beta Factory BYOB suspension from day 1 so it's a little different in adjustment.

 

 

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Very high rate front springs, theoretically seem correct for your weight but real life is different. 

After break in, if they feel firm or busy on small bumps you may consider a revalve or going down on rate. 

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10 hours ago, Just_a_trail_rider said:

I agree about the rider sag, but the beta manual  I have only shows me about the static sag.   I was smart enough to order the xtrig shock adjuster to simplify the shock preload.  But what is the right amount.  Should I shoot for 100mm?  I am somewhere around 230-235lbs geared up to ride.     I have .54 fork springs and a 6.0 rear shock.   

 

I'm running .50 in the front and a 5.8 in the rear. Beta USA sent it out with a 5.6, but I put the 5.8 on and it feels great. I'm 205-210lb, if your bike feels stiff you might want to go down a rate on your springs front/rear. 100-110mm rider sag, 30-35mm static.

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Rider sag on all bikes should target 1/3 of the total travel, front and rear. On the rear of a Beta that is 96.5mm. Since Beta's have less travel than most bikes that is a common misconception to set them like other bikes around 105. Beta's front travel has been lengthened 5mm (98.2) in the last few years. It is always a big debate HOW to measure rider sag, sitting or standing etc.  I am in the standing camp since moving back and forth on the seat creates a variance. I wouldn't be overly concerned with free sag, set the spring for minimal est. 10mm of preload not sag. The suspension still works pretty good with a lighter spring, but you will suffer in chassis balance with a "chopper" setup.

 The right hand mirror mount has reverse threads, designed so you can "back" the stock mirrors against the lock nut. I bought the wrong ball from Ram Mounts years ago and never got the right one, I think a Yamaha one is what you need.

Your rear brake should be fine, no mods needed on Beta's, they don't lock up like KTM's stalling the bike. 

You may want to raise the forks in the clamps regardless of what tire you run, but yes for the fatty raise them. Beta's have/had a tendency to need more weight on the front for chassis balance to keep the front from washing in low traction or high speed situations.

 Fork oil is frequently overfilled and too high of a viscosity stock. At low hours (5) toss the stock oil, take note of the color and if it's really black think about having your uppers coated before it gets out of hand. Before disassembly mark the lower fork tubes with a dry erase marker and ride and see if you are using full travel, adjust oil height accordingly and go to a 5w.

I don't answer every new owners questions so much as I used to the last 4 years, but you asked the right questions and asked them intelligently.

Great bike choice, it was 2nd on my list.  On the demo days I could easily tell the map difference since we were on hard pack flat corners a lot. I opted for rain setting at all times, it fits with the Beta engine "rideability" style.

Edited by Johnny Depp
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3 hours ago, KRAYNIAL said:

Please tell me the filter is there for humor purposes....

Your entire life is for humor purposes. 😏

Edited by Beta300recat

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6 hours ago, Johnny Depp said:

Rider sag on all bikes should target 1/3 of the total travel, front and rear. On the rear of a Beta that is 96.5mm. Since Beta's have less travel than most bikes that is a common misconception to set them like other bikes around 105. Beta's front travel has been lengthened 5mm? in the last few years. It is always a big debate HOW to measure rider sag, sitting or standing etc.  I am in the standing camp since moving back and forth on the seat creates a variance. I wouldn't be overly concerned with free sag, set the spring for minimal est. 10mm of preload not sag. The suspension still works pretty good with a lighter spring, but you will suffer in chassis balance with a "chopper" setup.

 The right hand mirror mount has reverse threads, designed so you can "back" the stock mirrors against the lock nut. I bought the wrong ball from Ram Mounts years ago and never got the right one, I think a Yamaha one is what you need.

Your rear brake should be fine, no mods needed on Beta's, they don't lock up like KTM's stalling the bike. 

You may want to raise the forks in the clamps regardless of what tire you run, but yes for the fatty raise them. Beta's have/had a tendency to need more weight on the front for chassis balance to keep the front from washing in low traction or high speed situations.

 Fork oil is frequently overfilled and too high of a viscosity stock. At low hours (5) toss the stock oil, take note of the color and if it's really black think about having your uppers coated before it gets out of hand. Before disassembly mark the lower fork tubes with a dry erase marker and ride and see if you are using full travel, adjust oil height accordingly and go to a 5w.

I don't answer every new owners questions so much as I used to the last 4 years, but you asked the right questions and asked them intelligently.

Great bike choice, it was 2nd on my list.  On the demo days I could easily tell the map difference since we were on hard pack flat corners a lot. I opted for rain setting at all times, it fits with the Beta engine "rideability" style.

Thanks for the responses.  Had my first ride and  it felt pretty good.   

The .54 and 6.0 springs are what was recommended.  I am going to stick with them.   I did back out most of the fork preload and the clicker settings are about 20 clicks out front and rear.  Bike held up in the stroke and did not wallow and was not bouncy.   I love that.   The fork moved when it needed to.   I agree I need to make sure that there isn't too much oil in the forks.

I am going to raise the forks in the clamps

Regarding setting the spring up for 10mm of preload, I can do that.   But, does anyone know what the length of the shock spring is so I can measure mine with the preload?     

Edited by Just_a_trail_rider

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21 minutes ago, Just_a_trail_rider said:

Thanks for the responses.  Had my first ride and  it felt pretty good.   

The .54 and 6.0 springs are what was recommended.  I am going to stick with them.   I did back out most of the fork preload and the clicker settings are about 20 clicks out front and rear.  Bike held up in the stroke and did not wallow and was not bouncy.   I love that.   The fork moved when it needed to.   I agree I need to make sure that there isn't too much oil in the forks.

I am going to raise the forks in the clamps

Regarding setting the spring up for 10mm of preload, I can do that.   But, does anyone know what the length of the shock spring is so I can measure mine with the preload?     

If you're referring to the rear, they are 260mm free length.

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9 hours ago, motoxgiant said:

If you're referring to the rear, they are 260mm free length.

Standard Sachs springs yes. But in case it is a Boano spring (red) it may be 265mm. I don't know if it is from another manufacturer but perhaps you should remove all preload to check free length. 

Edited by dirtbird

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