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My Engine Is Ticking

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So I washed my bike and was inspecting the valves to see if they were causing my hard starts in hare scrambles (they were) but after I got the valve cover back on and I went to start the bike up it's ticking. I know there's a normal amount of ticking that goes on but I think its louder. It may just be me overreacting because I feel like I messed something up when inspecting the valves. I'm not sure I'll get a video tomorrow.

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1 hour ago, xSmokey said:

So I washed my bike and was inspecting the valves to see if they were causing my hard starts in hare scrambles (they were) but after I got the valve cover back on and I went to start the bike up it's ticking. I know there's a normal amount of ticking that goes on but I think its louder. It may just be me overreacting because I feel like I messed something up when inspecting the valves. I'm not sure I'll get a video tomorrow.

Check your valve lash again, doesn’t hurt to double check. As long as it’s a slight tick and not a knock, you should be good. It’s not like a car that has hydraulic flat tappets or cam followers to adjust and smoothen lash, it’s literally metal on metal for bikes. 

 

Youve probably got that anxiety that a good number of us get after doing more precise work such as setting valves. Go for a slightly thicker oil if you’d like, but don’t go far off from what the oil spec is, that’s when your asking for issues. 

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10 hours ago, Mr.mudman112 said:

Check your valve lash again, doesn’t hurt to double check. As long as it’s a slight tick and not a knock, you should be good. It’s not like a car that has hydraulic flat tappets or cam followers to adjust and smoothen lash, it’s literally metal on metal for bikes. 

 

Youve probably got that anxiety that a good number of us get after doing more precise work such as setting valves. Go for a slightly thicker oil if you’d like, but don’t go far off from what the oil spec is, that’s when your asking for issues. 

Ok so the intake were more than .5 mm too big. Could this be the problem? Since its a bigger gap it might be making more noise? I'll go take a video

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24 minutes ago, xSmokey said:

Ok so the intake were more than .5 mm too big. Could this be the problem? Since its a bigger gap it might be making more noise? I'll go take a video

Half a millimeter is roughly 20 thou... that seems a bit off to me yeah. Don’t take my word for it,  check the spec for the intake lash, get your feeler gauge and lock it up! What bike is it, I’ll find the spec for you. 

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So from what I've read them being loose isnt a big deal except it might hurt performance. But we're going out this weekend for my birthday and I wont be able to get shims before then. So I'll just ride the weekend then get shims and adjust them. 

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2 hours ago, xSmokey said:

Do I just see if its really loose? Or is there some other way to test and see?

I don’t think it would be the tensioner, those don’t just go that easily though it definitely doesn’t hurt to check. It’s a glorified spring on a stick that pushes a track inward that the chain runs on, or it may even be a little wheel. Just give a little tug on the chain and make sure it’s snug. While you have it off, why not just check your timing marks haven’t skipped a tooth, that may also make a ticking noise. Check your oil too make sure there’s no potential contamination 

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21 hours ago, Mr.mudman112 said:

I don’t think it would be the tensioner, those don’t just go that easily though it definitely doesn’t hurt to check. It’s a glorified spring on a stick that pushes a track inward that the chain runs on, or it may even be a little wheel. Just give a little tug on the chain and make sure it’s snug. While you have it off, why not just check your timing marks haven’t skipped a tooth, that may also make a ticking noise. Check your oil too make sure there’s no potential contamination 

Actually, they do. The OEM tensioner is about a 15-20 hour part, max. I've got an entire bucket full of the damn things that have come loose then reset themselves. You can reach in with your tiny flat blade and add a tiny bit of extra tension on the chain and it'll stay for a little while. Just turn it about 1/4 of a turn. If it quiets down, the left side bearing on the cam is probably worn a little. The chain should be adjusted to the proper tension when you check the valve lash too. Bench setting the lash usually ends up about .001" tight on the left side because of the chain tension. Not the end of the world, but not right either. If you missed the lash by 1/2mm, you really missed it. The intake side should be .011" +/- .001. Half a mm is .020, that's double and it's too much. That clattering can mushroom the valve stems and mess up the opening ramp on the cam too.

I always put a manually adjusting CCT on the engines I do. I dont trust those OEM auto setters as far as I can throw one.

 

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12 minutes ago, Shawn_Mc said:

Actually, they do. The OEM tensioner is about a 15-20 hour part, max. I've got an entire bucket full of the damn things that have come loose then reset themselves. You can reach in with your tiny flat blade and add a tiny bit of extra tension on the chain and it'll stay for a little while. Just turn it about 1/4 of a turn. If it quiets down, the left side bearing on the cam is probably worn a little. The chain should be adjusted to the proper tension when you check the valve lash too. Bench setting the lash usually ends up about .001" tight on the left side because of the chain tension. Not the end of the world, but not right either. If you missed the lash by 1/2mm, you really missed it. The intake side should be .011" +/- .001. Half a mm is .020, that's double and it's too much. That clattering can mushroom the valve stems and mess up the opening ramp on the cam too.

I always put a manually adjusting CCT on the engines I do. I dont trust those OEM auto setters as far as I can throw one.

 

Ah ok. I’ve never had or seen one go or cause an issue. I’ve had them go on car engines we rebuild, but I’ve never really had much issues with any bikes tensioner. That being said, I’ve mostly had 2t bikes lmao. 

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1 hour ago, Mr.mudman112 said:

Ah ok. I’ve never had or seen one go or cause an issue. I’ve had them go on car engines we rebuild, but I’ve never really had much issues with any bikes tensioner. That being said, I’ve mostly had 2t bikes lmao. 

The issue with them is that they let go, then reset themselves after they've let the timing usually go at least one tooth retarded. The "piston" for the lack of a better term is just locked into place with a simple wedging device like a freakin screen door or something. The spring pushes it out, the wedge is supposed to keep it from backing off, but the chain whip, a little wear in the left side main bearing, the lobes tugging at the chain...all that wears that little edge off the lock wedge and it slips. Honda said they fixed it in 04...ah, no. Spend the 50 bucks and never worry about again. The TT branded part is really nice when you consider the price and peace of mind. Tokyo Mods makes one that's practically jewelry grade. Really nice.

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On 8/27/2019 at 12:29 PM, xSmokey said:

So from what I've read them being loose isnt a big deal except it might hurt performance. But we're going out this weekend for my birthday and I wont be able to get shims before then. So I'll just ride the weekend then get shims and adjust them. 

No man.

A camshaft has a slow take-up Ramp that transitions from the base circle to the flank very gently, by having all the clearance your skipping the take up and transition and the flank is banging the valve open hard (and generating the tick)

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On ‎8‎/‎28‎/‎2019 at 11:47 PM, Shawn_Mc said:

The issue with them is that they let go, then reset themselves after they've let the timing usually go at least one tooth retarded. The "piston" for the lack of a better term is just locked into place with a simple wedging device like a freakin screen door or something. The spring pushes it out, the wedge is supposed to keep it from backing off, but the chain whip, a little wear in the left side main bearing, the lobes tugging at the chain...all that wears that little edge off the lock wedge and it slips. Honda said they fixed it in 04...ah, no. Spend the 50 bucks and never worry about again. The TT branded part is really nice when you consider the price and peace of mind. Tokyo Mods makes one that's practically jewelry grade. Really nice.

Have you ever had to re-adjust a manual one and how would you know?   I thought about it when I rebuilt but wasn't sure about the process for getting it set properly.

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9 hours ago, Whopharded said:

Have you ever had to re-adjust a manual one and how would you know?   I thought about it when I rebuilt but wasn't sure about the process for getting it set properly.

Never. The chain simply doesnt stretch that much. By the time that chain is worn enough to need adjustment, you're replacing the crank and should be replacing the chain too, since it's only 30 bucks anyway.

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