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Buying Rekluse for yz250fx. Which one?

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I just replaced my old 2004 wr290f with a 2015 Yz250fx. I really like the new bike,great suspension and power,but it is very snappy when applying the throttle at low speed. I'm finding it more difficult to negotiate logs and other hard obstacles compared to the old bike.The 290 was slower revving, smooth with nice low speed torque. 

I'm looking at installing a rekluse. Any opinions as to which model?I would hope to retain engine braking. I tried a ktm 300 years ago with a rekluse and it free wheeled as if in neutral when the throttle was chopped. It felt odd.

Thankyou for any information 

Edited by vulcanduro

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I found mapping and a throttle cam tube to be my fix. That FI hit was a bit to get used to....but you will get used to it. Use the clutch some more and ride a gear taller than you're used to as well. 

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My experience is with WR250F's, but I believe the FX is quiet similar.

Lots of threads here about the snappy throttle response of the FI models, suggest you search for 'throttle'.

I am an avid Rekluse user with both carb and FI models, and did not find it to cure the snappy feel of the FI bike. nor for that matter a cam tube throttle.

What did work for me is increasing the idle RPM, and then a lot of getting used to it. 

..and when you do, other bikes will suddenly feel sluggish and unresponsive.

Edited by Micharider
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3 hours ago, Micharider said:

My experience is with WR250F's, but I believe the FX is quiet similar.

Lots of threads here about the snappy throttle response of the FI models, suggest you search for 'throttle'.

I am an avid Rekluse user with both carb and FI models, and did not find it to cure the snappy feel of the FI bike. nor for that matter a cam tube throttle.

What did work for me is increasing the idle RPM, and then a lot of getting used to it. 

..and when you do, other bikes will suddenly feel sluggish and unresponsive.

Why would increasing the idle reduce the FI snappiness?  

I have a throttle tamer and have gone to extremes with the GYTR tuner with respect to pulling advance out of the lower end revs and throttle openings.  Those things helped for sure but the snappiness is still pretty evident.  At least it doesn't throw me into trees.

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11 hours ago, vulcanduro said:

I just replaced my old 2004 wr290f with a 2015 Yz250fx. I really like the new bike,great suspension and power,but it is very snappy when applying the throttle at low speed. I'm finding it more difficult to negotiate logs and other hard obstacles compared to the old bike.The 290 was slower revving, smooth with nice low speed torque. 

I'm looking at installing a rekluse. Any opinions as to which model?I would hope to retain engine braking. I tried a ktm 300 years ago with a rekluse and it free wheeled as if in neutral when the throttle was chopped. It felt odd.

Thankyou for any information 

The YZFX FI snappiness is a bit of a handful to be sure.  I did three things to mine, which helped but have not completely eliminated the issue.

1. Throttle tamer - the throttle cam opens the butterflies slower

2. GYTR tuner - I drastically reduced ignition timing and added some fuel to the lowest revs and smallest throttle opening positions

3. Geared up the final drive ratio.  The FX comes with a 51T rear sprocket, I went to a 49T sprocket.

I have a Rekluse on my bike and it really doesn't eliminate the snappiness of the FI.  Engine braking is not a problem with a Rekluse.  I had to adjust mine to get the thing to freewheel down hills .... because I prefer that.

There are only 2 Rekluse models and they are basically the same thing.  The EXP and CX are the same basic system.  The only difference is the CX has the new clutch plates pack, which has more, thinner plates.  The EXP can be upgraded to a CX simply by swapping out the plates.  The Core designation means the clutch comes with a basket.  I only have the Core models so I'm not sure how a Rekluse works with the OEM clutch basket.

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1 hour ago, CDNSXV said:

Why would increasing the idle reduce the FI snappiness?  

I have a throttle tamer and have gone to extremes with the GYTR tuner with respect to pulling advance out of the lower end revs and throttle openings.  Those things helped for sure but the snappiness is still pretty evident.  At least it doesn't throw me into trees.

The problem is that when twisting the throttle from fully closed to slightly open, the revs suddenly go up in a step.

Increasing the idle reduces this step by making it start from a higher RPM level. 

It is extremely easy to trial (turn the 'choke' knob to increase the revs) - don't take my word for it, simply test it.

Edited by Micharider

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34 minutes ago, Micharider said:

The problem is that when twisting the throttle from fully closed to slightly open, the revs suddenly go up in a step.

Increasing the idle reduces this step by making it start from a higher RPM level. 

It is extremely easy to trial (turn the 'choke' knob to increase the revs) - don't take my word for it, simply test it.

Think I might.  ?

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49 minutes ago, Micharider said:

The problem is that when twisting the throttle from fully closed to slightly open, the revs suddenly go up in a step.

Increasing the idle reduces this step by making it start from a higher RPM level. 

It is extremely easy to trial (turn the 'choke' knob to increase the revs) - don't take my word for it, simply test it.

I actually had done this with my Tune on the Stock muffler and the GYTR ECU. I also increased the Ignition my +1  I found it smoothed things out a tad for me on my '15 WR. I have a FMF now, so I'm starting from scratch again. 

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I put the "full" rekluse on my 2015 when a wrist injury was preventing clutching for longer technical rides.  I set it up as per out of the box manufacturer settings, works great in the woods.  I did soften the mapping to reduce the low end snappiness (less ign, more fuel) prior to the Rekluse.

Only minor complaints are the occasional stall when chopping throttle usually during very low speed no clutch wheelies, and it does clutch aggressively on steep climbs lifting the front, but that's me being lazy not covering the clutch lever due to my Ox left hand brake in the normal clutch position.   I added the Ox Brake to prevent roll backs on climbs, however I now use it for regular braking as well. 

For woods riding, I would now more consider the Rekluse and LHB on any new 4 stroke.  It covers mistakes and makes the overall ride more successful and less tiring.

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2 hours ago, malcolmzilla said:

I put the "full" rekluse on my 2015 when a wrist injury was preventing clutching for longer technical rides.  I set it up as per out of the box manufacturer settings, works great in the woods.  I did soften the mapping to reduce the low end snappiness (less ign, more fuel) prior to the Rekluse.

Only minor complaints are the occasional stall when chopping throttle usually during very low speed no clutch wheelies, and it does clutch aggressively on steep climbs lifting the front, but that's me being lazy not covering the clutch lever due to my Ox left hand brake in the normal clutch position.   I added the Ox Brake to prevent roll backs on climbs, however I now use it for regular braking as well. 

For woods riding, I would now more consider the Rekluse and LHB on any new 4 stroke.  It covers mistakes and makes the overall ride more successful and less tiring.

Your flameouts are a bit strange.  Mine never does that and I do no-clutch wheelies from a standstill all the time.

The hydraulic LHRB is the best thing since sliced cheese.  It is THE mod I couldn't ride without and it absolutely transformed my downhills.  I prob use the LHRB for 95% of my braking.

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7 hours ago, CDNSXV said:

Your flameouts are a bit strange.  Mine never does that and I do no-clutch wheelies from a standstill all the time.

+1

BTW in my case messing with the map in order to tame the snappiness off of idle, only resulted in mellowing the engine response W/O curing the problem.

Hence my recommendation would be to put a map which keeps the smile on your face, and tame that annoying step off of idle by revving up the idle RPM.

While on the subject, can anyone testify from personal experience if Yamaha cured it with latest models?

 

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I don't know what you did to "mess with" the mapping on your bike but with the 3x3 grid map, there is no reason the engine response should be hugely mellowed if you only adjust the low rpm and small throttle opening settings.

This is the map I am currently using and the engine still has loads of power when I want it.  

 

Screen Shot 2019-08-28 at 10.03.51 AM.png

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My map isn't that detuned off idle iirc, just a couple points of fuel and ignition.

I don't think its a EFI flameout, so much as a clutch issue when snapping it open and chopping combined with a rear brake grab.

Maybe some Rekluse tuning will alleviate it, but its so infrequent I likely wont bother given the Rekluse's performance elsewhere.

Wonder if the 2020 will use the same Rekluse?

Edited by malcolmzilla

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The basic Rekluse EXP unit hasn't changed at all AFAIK.  The only changes they make model to model would be clutch basket and cable or hydraulic actuation and thus adjustment.

 

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On 8/27/2019 at 10:38 AM, Micharider said:

The problem is that when twisting the throttle from fully closed to slightly open, the revs suddenly go up in a step.

Increasing the idle reduces this step by making it start from a higher RPM level. 

It is extremely easy to trial (turn the 'choke' knob to increase the revs) - don't take my word for it, simply test it.

I have dialled my idle up to about 2300 rpm.  Gonna try it the next couple of days.

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20 hours ago, CDNSXV said:

I have dialled my idle up to about 2300 rpm.  Gonna try it the next couple of days.

Note this reduces engine breaking, so you will carry more speed into turns and on downhills when letting go of the throttle.

Takes a ride or two to get used to that, but then you'll never think about it again.

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Engine braking is not an issue for me.  I prefer to not have it.

After today's ride I'd say the raised idle speed helps maybe a little bit.  Maybe it softens the jerkiness but the jerkiness is still there to be sure.  We r riding again tomorrow so I will have some more experience with it.

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6 hours ago, CDNSXV said:

Engine braking is not an issue for me.  I prefer to not have it.

After today's ride I'd say the raised idle speed helps maybe a little bit.  Maybe it softens the jerkiness but the jerkiness is still there to be sure.  We r riding again tomorrow so I will have some more experience with it.

"If using force did not solve your problem, you must have applied too little from it" ?.

Edited by Micharider
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On 8/31/2019 at 11:02 PM, CDNSXV said:

Engine braking is not an issue for me.  I prefer to not have it.

After today's ride I'd say the raised idle speed helps maybe a little bit.  Maybe it softens the jerkiness but the jerkiness is still there to be sure.  We r riding again tomorrow so I will have some more experience with it.

I bought a 2018 250f over winter and it took a little time and some parts to make it ridable. I came from a wr450f with a rekluse. Riding the tight single track in first gear was horrible, a lot of jerkiness. Clip a tree with left bark buster i would wiskey throttle it! Not enough power or talent for 2nd gear. I actually put a Rekluse in it before i rode it. I experienced flameouts constantly. You can only bump the idle so far without the clutch trying to engage. I tried a couple different mappings. 1st big ride on it went ok. I had the suspension done and lowered so it handles alot better than my 290lb wr. I immediately did the G2 throttle tamer, flywheel weight and new Shinko 525 cheater. Totally different experience 2nd time out. I can ride second in all the places i had to ride in first. So much smoother now. I currently loving this bike now. I put a flywheel weight on a cr250 i had it really changed the bike and let me ride a gear higher which makes it more controllable for me. I only ride rocky woods coal mine Pennsylvania terrain.       

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