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Rear brake pivot play solution

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Searched TT, saw many semi-fixes for the play in the rear brake lever at the pin/clevis. I am not sure what the Fasst clevis pin diameter is, The tusk clevis comes with a pin diameter of .310" which still leaves lots of play in the stock lever bushing ID of close to .350". Decided I was going to tighten it up with a closer tolerance bushing. 5 pack shipped for about $15 after tax will cover all three of my bikes. 8mm ID, 12mm OD and 8mm long should work out just fine. For a little more than the price of one Fasst clevis, I bought 3 of the tusk units and the bushings linked below. 

 

Going to drill out the stock brake lever bushing and press in this:

 

https://www.zoro.com/bunting-bearings-sleeve-bearing-8mm-id-8mm-l-pk5-cbm008012008/i/G4091796/feature-product?gclid=CjwKCAjwqZPrBRBnEiwAmNJsNt5t3JzvfBhEF0Y17rR6wK_Ds95S76UgRxvEt4zGF9yDAfif9DLcahoCJ7UQAvD_BwE

 

If I can drop the clearance from .040" to .004" it should be as tight as possible shy of using a sealed bearing. Once i finish this I will let you know how it worked out. 

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30 minutes ago, Just_a_trail_rider said:

very interested in how this plays out.  I also want to remove the some of the play in the rear brake lever, but I don't want the pedal any higher.

The tusk clevis has ample threads in it, I am sure you could machine it down and gain some room to get the pedal lower than you could with the stock stamped clevis. 

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You can buy replacement bushings off McMaster.com for $1.. and keep the stock clevis in.  The stock clevis measures 8mm but the stock bushing is close to 9mm ID", thats where the slop comes from.  Here is a link to the bushings I used that got rid of all the slop.  8mm ID, 11mm OD.. bike is a 17' 250RR.  It does require a touch of filing to get the width just right when its seated in the brake pedal.. super easy though.

https://www.mcmaster.com/6658K732

Also @redhurricane. You don't have to drill out the stock bushing.. just press it out with a socket in a vice.. comes out easy.

Edited by NW_drZ
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8 minutes ago, NW_drZ said:

You can buy replacement bushings off McMaster.com for $1.. and keep the stock clevis in.  The stock clevis measures 8mm but the stock bushing is close to 9mm ID", thats where the slop comes from.  Here is a link to the bushings I used that got rid of all the slop.  8mm ID, 11mm OD.. bike is a 17' 250RR.  It does require a touch of filing to get the width just right when its seated in the brake pedal.. super easy though.

https://www.mcmaster.com/6658K732

Also @redhurricane. You don't have to drill out the stock bushing.. just press it out with a socket in a vice.. comes out easy.

Good to know, the bushings I bought are larger in diameter than the mcmaster ones you linked. 12mm OD so i will be boring to fit. I probably should have spent more than 5 minutes searching for metric bushings. 

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6 hours ago, redhurricane said:

any of you guys that have the Fasst clevis, could you mic the diameter of the pin for me? @Edgecombe pretty sure you are running one? 

Yes I am sir. I'll be washing the beast Friday after I get all the grass cut and getting you some measurements shortly after. 

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6 minutes ago, Edgecombe said:

Yes I am sir. I'll be washing the beast Friday after I get all the grass cut and getting you some measurements shortly after. 

Much appreciated. 

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On 8/28/2019 at 12:04 PM, redhurricane said:

any of you guys that have the Fasst clevis, could you mic the diameter of the pin for me? @Edgecombe pretty sure you are running one? 

20190830_162456.thumb.jpg.064c234703e8083063bf43766628d10c.jpg20190830_162256.jpg.6c2d4ef9bddacb7e4c5b9413187980bb.jpg20190830_162216.jpg.6ded33704a1c3beac78552418988265e.jpg

 

Will this work

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4 minutes ago, Edgecombe said:

20190830_162456.thumb.jpg.064c234703e8083063bf43766628d10c.jpg20190830_162256.jpg.6c2d4ef9bddacb7e4c5b9413187980bb.jpg20190830_162216.jpg.6ded33704a1c3beac78552418988265e.jpg

 

Will this work

Perfection. that's how Fasst co is getting the slop out, my inner bushing measured .351"

 

I have some of the 11mmod x 8mm ID bushings coming to solve my slop. the Tusk clevis is no different from the stock one in play. After ordering 3 of them and paying shipping/tax it was about $14. 

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33 minutes ago, redhurricane said:

Perfection. that's how Fasst co is getting the slop out, my inner bushing measured .351"

 

I have some of the 11mmod x 8mm ID bushings coming to solve my slop. the Tusk clevis is no different from the stock one in play. After ordering 3 of them and paying shipping/tax it was about $14. 

Glad I could help 

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1 minute ago, hawaiidirtrider said:

Just got some ebay China ones. I’m guessing it’s sort of Tusk level of quality which doesn’t look bad at all. I think this was 9 or 10 bucks shipped. 

 

9D3A095B-8308-49C1-9731-463EBE3064F6.jpeg

98F5D033-98C7-4810-8EDD-E096F9C83D9E.jpeg

I would replace that clip with a split pin or cotter pin. With ever you call it. Or wire tie it.

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20 minutes ago, Edgecombe said:

I would replace that clip with a split pin or cotter pin. With ever you call it. Or wire tie it.

When I pull off the stock clevis I will compare to the ebay one to see what might be better or worse. I’m not even sure I’m changing at this point. I figure for 10 bucks I could look snd see. I don’t really notice any problem with the stock clevis. But if this new one is an improvement I’ll throw it on.  It sure looks shiny and pretty for now..

yea looking at it a cotter pin does look more permanent.

Edited by hawaiidirtrider

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If you drill a hole through the pin, not only does it look trick, it gives an additional place to safety wire after installation...

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all three bikes now have near zero play at the clevis pin. $15 in bushings and about 20 min of my time. well worth the time investment to do this mod. WHY Beta has not done this is beyond me. 

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