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Edman141

So much for so little

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So a guy I ride with has a 2018 250l and I have the 2019 250l. He has an fmf pipe and programmer on his. He has always been able to pull on me, highway and in town. I recently put in a k&n filter and replaced my chain tubes and sprocket for lighter ones. I went to an xring did chain and a 42t moose aluminum sprocket. I left the stock 14t upfront. My friend with the 2018 runs a 13/40. Overall I removed 3lbs of rotating weight from the rear wheel. I noticed the bike seemed much more lively after this. So tonight we went for a ride and now I can pull on him from a stop every time by a decent amount and on the highway he seemed to stop accelerating around 120kmh and I pulled passed him and accelerated up to 135kmh. I suspect he is on the down side of the power band at that speed as he revs higher than the 14/42. I think the combination of the k&n and the 42t in aluminum coupled with the light weight tubes may be a winning combination. It seems to have a greater effect than his exhaust and programmer mods. He said he is going to try my setup with his pipe and programmer . It will be interesting to see the difference.

I should mention he has the stock air filter in his.

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Let us know how it goes. I have the fmf and programmer with stock filter and stock 14/40 gearing. I have been on the fence about the K&n and 42 tooth sprocket.

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*CONTROVERSIAL OPINION*

exhaust and EJK don't actually do much (if anything) for increasing ACTUAL power. they do help the Butt Dyno numbers, but I've seen more than enough reports with actual numbers that show that JUST those mods don't actually do much of anything for actual measurable power. throttle response can get better from more air in/more air out (airbox mods and exhaust), and from the EJK but in general, total power doesn't change (in real world ways). of course, the FMF full exhaust is, what...like 10+ lighter than stock? weight reduction alone on these bikes will increase performance in surprising ways.

 

obviously the gearing makes big differences in bottom end and top end speeds/torque values etc... which is where I'd suspect your "gains" come from.

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21 hours ago, motorberus said:

 I have been on the fence about the K&n

Save your engine - don't

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While actual dyno numbers for mods seem to vary between "nothing" and "dirt bike magazine's black marker", I have seen gains measured by essentially top-speed going both directions on the same flat patch of road I use for testing, and of course "butt dyno" aka throttle response and feel.  When my '16 was brand new, bone stock, I could BARELY hit 70MPH, it was slow, sluggish, and after 60MPH, it was slow acceleration up to 70.  After 600 miles and an EBC clutch kit, it was a bit better, and could hit 75 given enough time on flat road.  I did the FMF Q4 with PB header, cut the backfire screen on the stock filter, removed the snorkel, and added some body stuff, 13/40 gearing, and could just hit 80, but throttle response was far quicker, and it got to 75 relatively quick, then stretched out to top speed of 82.  Adding 17" sumo wheels and going back to 14/40 gearing, and a 2" snorkel mod got me to 86.  Swapping in a '17 throttle body was my latest mod, and I have hit 90, it gets to 85 relatively quick, with the best throttle response ever, and climbs slow from there, this is from the "slow" direction on this road, got 88 by the gopro GPS, 89 by phone GPS.  Of course atmospheric conditions can affect power, and it hasn't been dynoed before/after every mod, but what has become a 20MPH top speed increase from stock makes the bike FAR more useful to me.  I do ride fast and far, and the ability to stay 80+ with a headwdind and slight hill allow me to keep up, and get through traffic on the interstate, something the bike couldn't do out of the box.

 

 

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While actual dyno numbers for mods seem to vary between "nothing" and "dirt bike magazine's black marker", I have seen gains measured by essentially top-speed going both directions on the same flat patch of road I use for testing, and of course "butt dyno" aka throttle response and feel.  When my '16 was brand new, bone stock, I could BARELY hit 70MPH, it was slow, sluggish, and after 60MPH, it was slow acceleration up to 70.  After 600 miles and an EBC clutch kit, it was a bit better, and could hit 75 given enough time on flat road.  I did the FMF Q4 with PB header, cut the backfire screen on the stock filter, removed the snorkel, and added some body stuff, 13/40 gearing, and could just hit 80, but throttle response was far quicker, and it got to 75 relatively quick, then stretched out to top speed of 82.  Adding 17" sumo wheels and going back to 14/40 gearing, and a 2" snorkel mod got me to 86.  Swapping in a '17 throttle body was my latest mod, and I have hit 90, it gets to 85 relatively quick, with the best throttle response ever, and climbs slow from there, this is from the "slow" direction on this road, got 88 by the gopro GPS, 89 by phone GPS.  Of course atmospheric conditions can affect power, and it hasn't been dynoed before/after every mod, but what has become a 20MPH top speed increase from stock makes the bike FAR more useful to me.  I do ride fast and far, and the ability to stay 80+ with a headwdind and slight hill allow me to keep up, and get through traffic on the interstate, something the bike couldn't do out of the box.
 
[url=https://www.youtube.com/embed/jlyITAFz7II?feature=oembed][/url]  
Thanks for your real world experience. End results and suitability for role are more important than numbers on a graph.
Just to clarify, are all these mph figures gps generated or just the last ones? Where is speedo driven off btw?

Pete

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I got very similar results as alucard on my 2018 Rally with adding the FMF Q4, Megabomb header, EJK, and backfire screen removed. Stock gearing, tires, and clutch. Speedo is driven off the transmission so any gearing or tire size changes will throw your speedo off. I measured all top speeds before and after mods via GPS and got similar results to alucard. FYI, my speedo is relatively accurate with stock tires and gearing, reading approximately 1.5% higher than GPS speed all times measured. 

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Thanks. I was wondering whether the larger headers and throttle body of the late model L's and the Rally would negate some of the gains that people are experiencing with earlier bikes.
So it seems that a less restricted muffler and air filter combined with fuelling mods delivers real world usability gains.

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I have waze on my phone(ram mount to handlebar), GPS data embedded in the video from my Gopro 7 black(source of pictured overlay), then the DRD speedo that I calibrate based on the 2 GPS values.  Even the stock speedo with no mods was about 3 or 4 MPH fast, think my current correction is around 10%.  For top speed, that section of road, and the west 1/2 of the bridge measure less than 10' elevation change over a mile, and I take the exit across the bridge and come back from the other way to see if there is a difference in speed due to wind, usually there isn't much if any.  Figure at 90/top speed I'm about 9K RPM, right at the tail end of the peak HP on most every dyno out there for the stock displacement bike, so IMO it's a decent indicator of peak power.  When I tune the EJK, I zip-tie it to the bars, make a small change, then do several runs to see if there is a change, I tune "low" green settings mostly by driveability and a smooth transition, "mid" yellow by a low RPM pull up a hill, and what speed I can maintain, higher speed or better acceleration before it gets into red= better setting, "high" red is set simply by top-speed at WOT. Not sure how the different combos of parts between 13-16 and 17+ models affect actual HP, Honda claims less than a 2HP increase with the ECU, throttle, airbox, and header, no real way to tell without a dyno if any of the changes, including aftermarket increase or decrease power on their own, but for me at least, I have had a measureable increase with each group of mods, so at least I'm happy about that.

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