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Ben500RR-S

Harness' replaced. Lessons learned. 2017 RR-S to 2019 (updated) harness.

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15 minutes ago, DentonC said:

Since we are talking electrical issues. My 2019 500rrs has this issue hot or cold. Every now and then I hit the starter and the bike turns over but sounds like it's getting no spark. I stop try again sometimes it continues or the bike will start. 

Another issue that maybe related and only happened about twice is the bike just cutting out while idling and rolling along. 

Also anyone have issues with the bike running as if a choke is on? Happened three times when first starting and warming the bike up. So I assumed the ECU was just doing its thing like in cars except it's summer and over 90. It never kicked off though I had to turn the key off and restart to get normal idle.

Twice though where I thought it can be dangerous out of nowhere when backing off the throttle the rpms stayed up. I'm not sure how high because the Voyager didn't show an increase in rpms, but the bike definitely was pulling almost harder than my brakes could overcome. Once again stopping and restarting the bike fixed the issues. 

I had the same issues as you, when my bike was newer.  It has been a while, hot or cold-it mostly happened on cold mornings or cold evenings where I'd get the hanging idle like you have been getting. 

It sounds like you need to do a passive reset where you have to get the bike stone-cold.  Start it and let it idle, not touching the throttle, ,until the fan kicks on and a few minutes longer after that.  Shut off, then restart and the bike should re-learn the condition(s) at that time.  

It has been so long since I have had the high idle that I had forgotten all about it.  At the same time, I have done so many of the passive resets in both the cold and hot weather that my bike must have adapted to all the possible conditions.  

When I did get the high idle while riding, I'd have to pull over and stop somewhere, shut the motor off and turn it back on and it would run fine the rest of the ride.  

Edited by Ben500RR-S

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2 hours ago, DentonC said:

Since we are talking electrical issues. My 2019 500rrs has this issue hot or cold. Every now and then I hit the starter and the bike turns over but sounds like it's getting no spark. I stop try again sometimes it continues or the bike will start. 

Another issue that maybe related and only happened about twice is the bike just cutting out while idling and rolling along. 

Also anyone have issues with the bike running as if a choke is on? Happened three times when first starting and warming the bike up. So I assumed the ECU was just doing its thing like in cars except it's summer and over 90. It never kicked off though I had to turn the key off and restart to get normal idle.

Twice though where I thought it can be dangerous out of nowhere when backing off the throttle the rpms stayed up. I'm not sure how high because the Voyager didn't show an increase in rpms, but the bike definitely was pulling almost harder than my brakes could overcome. Once again stopping and restarting the bike fixed the issues. 

Are you waiting for the fuel pump to get to pressure?  I noticed if I turn the key and try to fire it up immediately things can get a bit wonky. 

However your other problems do NOT sound right.  Try the reset as noted by @randysoo.  If that doesn't fix the problems I'd take it to the dealer, or maybe check all the wiring.  First thing I did with was install 4gallon IMS and while it was 'stripped' dialectric greased all electrical connections and secured wiring better.

My '19 500 RR-S has been nothing short of awesome.. 

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Yeah I wait for the fuel pump to get pressure but oddly never had an issue from the few times I hit start before pressure builds. I just learned my buddy who is a dirt bike mechanic and used to work for the beta dealer will be in town tomorrow. I'll run by the solutions you guys suggested to him. 

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After a good ride, home and back to work this AM, the charging voltages are holding steady and in a range that I'm very happy with.  Please also keep in mind that this is all small city street-riding, 20-40 mph at the most and 4.5 miles one way and 6.5 miles to get home.  These readings are not being taken  in the 90 degree woods, slow and crappy trail riding, nor are they taken when it is 10 degrees F, in 2-3' of snow, with an engine jacket on, and in both conditions, the fan is running about non-stop to keep the temps at a max of 228F-which is the highest recorded temp on the Voyager however, when in traffic, or waiting for a light, the fan does kick on at right around 200F and with the headlight off the voltage will drop from 13.4V to 13.5V.  This is good. 

 

If I flip on the headlight the voltage will go down to 12.8 to 13.2V.  

 

I have found that the Motominded mounted, Baja Designs Squadron Pro headlight needs right around 1.1V to run and that the fan needs from .6 to .8V to run.  

 

So far, the replacement harness is giving me the charging voltage that it should have had all along.  

I will have to remember to cut into the old harness just to take a look at what all the crimps look like as I know that I will never use the harness' again.  I will report back and keep providing updates on this 2017 500 RR-S harness swap to a 2019 upgraded harness and hope that the voltages will not stray for as long as I have this bike. 

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Another small-lesson learned yesterday, that is not really related to the harness but sort of is;

My Trail Tech Voyager, had stopped turning on by itself sometime this past spring.  I had no motivation to track down why it would not go on automatically and any time that the bike would start rolling.  

When I had installed the new harness' this past weekend, the function started working again but after work on Monday, it stopped working.  I had realized that on that morning, like most mornings, I go Baja 1000 on a dirt road on the way to work in order to get my adrenaline fix on and when I got home, I had noticed that the second connector from the clutch plate side of the bike, due to all the jostling, pulls away on its own so once I had zip tied it in place, it fixed the loose connection problem.  

Now the Voyager turns on automatically anytime the wheels of the bike are moved.  

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45 minutes ago, Ben500RR-S said:

Another small-lesson learned yesterday, that is not really related to the harness but sort of is;

My Trail Tech Voyager, had stopped turning on by itself sometime this past spring.  I had no motivation to track down why it would not go on automatically and any time that the bike would start rolling.  

When I had installed the new harness' this past weekend, the function started working again but after work on Monday, it stopped working.  I had realized that on that morning, like most mornings, I go Baja 1000 on a dirt road on the way to work in order to get my adrenaline fix on and when I got home, I had noticed that the second connector from the clutch plate side of the bike, due to all the jostling, pulls away on its own so once I had zip tied it in place, it fixed the loose connection problem.  

Now the Voyager turns on automatically anytime the wheels of the bike are moved.  

That's a well known issue, zip tie seems to be the common fix.  I also disassembled the plug and tightened up the female connectors so the they are now a tight fit., previously the fit was rather sloppy.   Speedo function has been spot on since.

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15 minutes ago, braindead0 said:

That's a well known issue, zip tie seems to be the common fix.  I also disassembled the plug and tightened up the female connectors so the they are now a tight fit., previously the fit was rather sloppy.   Speedo function has been spot on since.

At least I know now, which connection controls that on/off for the auto-power for the Voyager, and that the fix is easy enough.  

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2 minutes ago, Ben500RR-S said:

At least I know now, which connection controls that on/off for the auto-power for the Voyager, and that the fix is easy enough.  

You might want to check the setting for 'ACCUM RUN TIME' in vehicle sensor setup.  Make sure that's set to "ENG or WHL".   I think that may be related to when it wakes up.

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1 minute ago, braindead0 said:

You might want to check the setting for 'ACCUM RUN TIME' in vehicle sensor setup.  Make sure that's set to "ENG or WHL".   I think that may be related to when it wakes up.

Hmmmm, I think I have it set on both or either right now but I would prefer to have it set to engine so when the motor starts, the Voyager starts.  

 

Thanks for the heads-up.  I'll be surprised if I have it set on wheel to wake it up.  

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Just now, Ben500RR-S said:

Hmmmm, I think I have it set on both or either right now but I would prefer to have it set to engine so when the motor starts, the Voyager starts.  

 

Thanks for the heads-up.  I'll be surprised if I have it set on wheel to wake it up.  

Default is both.   I'm not 100% sure that has anything to do with 'waking up', however the notes in the manual indicate that activity from the sensor(s) configured in this setting will 'keep Voyager awake". 

While in there, might want to set the warning LED's if you haven't already.  Default is disabled, which seems bassackwards to me...

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20 minutes ago, braindead0 said:

Default is both.   I'm not 100% sure that has anything to do with 'waking up', however the notes in the manual indicate that activity from the sensor(s) configured in this setting will 'keep Voyager awake". 

While in there, might want to set the warning LED's if you haven't already.  Default is disabled, which seems bassackwards to me...

I do have the amber/red warning LED's set to alert me to something like 235F and another for a higher temp and thankfully, they have never gone off.  

I have gone though all the options on the Voyager, making sure I got it all how I like it.  

 

The best are the two User1 and User2 customizeable screens where we can put 6 bits of data on each screen, exactly where we want it.  I keep my eye on the Voltage, all the time.  

 

I'll probably keep it on voltage from now on, just to see if it will drop over time.  I hope it doesn't but if it does, I'll know.  

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I'm still amazed, I got home after my usual 6.5 mile ride home, with no headlight and no fan as it was only in the low 60's for the ride home with no traffic and the voltage, at the battery was 13.5V.  

So far, the replacement has been a success.  

Edited by Ben500RR-S
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