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fishugly

Stock 2000 S carb. Oil inside throat & on diaphragm. Also, needle valve different in carb kit than stock. (pics in post)

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I noticed oil in two places when taking my carb apart to rebuild. The first place was in the throat as shown in the below pic. It's not filter oil as I use red filter oil. This looks like engine oil. Also, I noticed a little oil on top of the diaphragm. (the little o-ring that goes between the top of the carb & diaphragm cover was missing - #37 on Suzuki's part's schematic. There's a chance I lost it upon taking it apart...but it could have been lost 2-3 yrs ago when I took the carb apart to clean) (see video in below post)

Is the oil in either area a symptom of something...or is it nothing to worry about?

More questions below carb pic.

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The needle valve assembly from my All Balls Racing rebuild kit is a little different than stock. Rather than brass, it looks to be chrome plated. Also, as seen in the below pics, unlike the stock one, this one has a screen on it. Should I remove the screen? The hole under the All Balls screen is a tad different than the one on the stock piece too (not bigger, just less chamfered than stock - see pics). Not a big difference but one none-the-less.

I'm half tempted to take the fresh o-ring off the All Balls piece, stick it on the stock piece and reusing it. I did scuff up the hole in the stock piece when pulling it out with needle nose pliers... but smoothed it out with 1200 grit sandpaper (after pic was taken).

(wish I would have spent the extra $ and got the OEM rebuild kit 😞. I've got this one now though so am going to use it)

Advice would be greatly appreciated.

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Edited by fishugly

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7 hours ago, bumtarder said:

I would use the new parts and order the 0-ring that goes under the top cap.

Thanks. What do you think about that screen on the new part? Since the stock part didn't have it, I'm inclined to leave it off.

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You've already buggered up the original seat upon removal.A marred seat won't work or function well.All fcr carbs have a screen on the float needle seat.It keeps fine particulates out of the body of the carb.That screen on the seat will act as a redundant fuel filter so long as there is adequate clearance for it to seat properly in its bore of the carb.That's my opinion.

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1 hour ago, bumtarder said:

You've already buggered up the original seat upon removal.A marred seat won't work or function well.All fcr carbs have a screen on the float needle seat.It keeps fine particulates out of the body of the carb.That screen on the seat will act as a redundant fuel filter so long as there is adequate clearance for it to seat properly in its bore of the carb.That's my opinion.

Thanks. As far as the original seat, I marred it on the top inside edge only. After smoothing the tiny burrs out with 1200 grit, the float needles moves freely in it with no place for it to hangup. Would that be your concern...the float needle hanging up on a burr?

I must say though, when I just took this photo of the "repaired" stock seat, it looks worse than what I could see with my eyes (I failed to mention that before the sandpaper, I ran a file over it lightly... and it shows in this pic). The needle doesn't hang up in it...but maybe best to just go with the new All Balls seat... even though the bottom orifice does not have the chamfer the stock seat does. Seems it would not flow as well...but this bike isn't going on the dyno then to some world championship race...

I'd just like it to run as well as it did before I started monkeying with it...

Additional thoughts/opinions appreciated.

 

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Edited by fishugly

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Ya, definitely use the new needle valve seat.  Your old seat lost its screen at some point in the past - it's supposed to be there.  And you're not likely going to clean up the old seat enough to keep it from chewing up your new needle valve. The rubber tip of the needle needs to seal completely, with only the pressure of the floats pushing it up into the seat.  The reason they plated the new seat is to get a smoother surface for the needle to sit on and seal better.  The slightest abrasion against that little rubber tip will eat it up in a matter of a few rides, due to vibration and shock while riding.

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2 hours ago, DirtAndBass said:

Ya, definitely use the new needle valve seat.  Your old seat lost its screen at some point in the past - it's supposed to be there.  And you're not likely going to clean up the old seat enough to keep it from chewing up your new needle valve. The rubber tip of the needle needs to seal completely, with only the pressure of the floats pushing it up into the seat.  The reason they plated the new seat is to get a smoother surface for the needle to sit on and seal better.  The slightest abrasion against that little rubber tip will eat it up in a matter of a few rides, due to vibration and shock while riding.

I finished the carb before reading your post. I used the new seat, but left the screen off. While I can't be 100% certain, I am reasonably sure no one besides myself has opened that carb.

At any rate, I wasn't expecting the bike to run better. It does though...mostly. While cruising down the road in a steady lower mid RPM range... if I suddenly open the throttle wide open... it falls a bit flat for a fraction of a second before taking off. Otherwise, it has good throttle response and runs well... even accelerating wide open through the gears.

Anyone have any idea why it falls flat for that fraction of a second?

 

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2 minutes ago, shuswap1 said:

What needle is in there? And what size pilot jet?

 

Stock sizes, as far as I know. All Balls Racing kit. I checked the number on some of the All Balls Racing jets and they were the same as the jets in the carb.

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The needle makes the most difference in the BSR carb, in my experience. You can either buy one or sand it down as bucketlist did. I tried shimming a stock needle higher on the SM version I had for a while and it did little to nothing. It costs nothing but time to sand the needle down and I'm pretty sure bucketlist would share his ideas on that.

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