2020 KLX300R New Owners Sound Off

[Jgas]

23 hours ago, Cory Gordon said:

LOL! Bro each one of those purple spokes adds 1hp. And I slapped a purple seat on it too recently for an additional 10hp. Just got her dyno’d at 115hp i cant keep the front tire down even at idle. Im looking into some tungsten handlebars to help keep the front end down but if that doesn’t help i might need to strap a sandbag to my front fender too. 

I guess purple spoke straws only work on Kawis. I worked all night and today, 24 hrs. nonstop, unlacing all my KTM spokes, both wheels, adding purple spoke straws and relacing. What a job! I then dynoed my KTM 520, (on my personal garage dyno). It lost 40 horse power! Started with 60! Wtf?! Feels like it has Tungsten handlebars with a sandbag strapped to the bars! Does this only work with pink and purple graphics? Do I now have to change the plastic to green? What gives?

[Cory Gordon]

On 11/12/2021 at 6:20 AM, Gasser56 said:

Thank you I like that light, looks very bright.  The purple spokes actually flow good with your bike, especially as that use to be Kawasaki's color scheme. 

thanks man! definitely check that light out. I love mine works great for night rides. ?

On 11/12/2021 at 6:20 AM, Gasser56 said:

Thank you I like that light, looks very bright.  The purple spokes actually flow good with your bike, especially as that use to be Kawasaki's color scheme. 

thanks man! definitely check that light out. I love mine works great for night rides. ?

[Cory Gordon]

23 hours ago, Jgas said:

I guess purple spoke straws only work on Kawis. I worked all night and today, 24 hrs. nonstop, unlacing all my KTM spokes, both wheels, adding purple spoke straws and relacing. What a job! I then dynoed my KTM 520, (on my personal garage dyno). It lost 40 horse power! Started with 60! Wtf?! Feels like it has Tungsten handlebars with a sandbag strapped to the bars! Does this only work with pink and purple graphics? Do I now have to change the plastic to green? What gives?

Lmfao! I think you need a purple chain and sprocket for KTM’s to unlock its full potential. KTM’s have heavy air filters and handlebars to begin with so the added weight of the plastic straws is probably what’s slowing it down. Replace your handlebars with a balsa wood broom shaft and try filling your tires with expanding foam instead of using an inner tube that should save some weight and help gain some horsepower. 

[GreenMike]

Hey Guys,

bought mine in July (used) after doing a trail day with a local company and getting completely hooked. The learning curve was steep (been solely a street rider for years), but the more I ride, the more the bike reveals its potential to me. I love it.

Between the previous owner and me it's already taken quite a beating cosmetically, but I like the well-worn look. It's not meant to be a garage queen.

It came with aftermarket pegs and Acerbis bark busters, next mods are putting an emperor racing bash plate and eventually the FMF exhaust system, if it ever comes back in stock. 

I was wondering why the bike was so loud until I found out the previous owner took the arrestor out. It's louder than most other bikes on the trail.

My wife christened it Mike.

 

[Rev Armstrong]

4 minutes ago, GreenMike said:

Hey Guys,

bought mine in July (used) after doing a trail day with a local company and getting completely hooked. The learning curve was steep (been solely a street rider for years), but the more I ride, the more the bike reveals its potential to me. I love it.

Between the previous owner and me it's already taken quite a beating cosmetically, but I like the well-worn look. It's not meant to be a garage queen.

It came with aftermarket pegs and Acerbis bark busters, next mods are putting an emperor racing bash plate and eventually the FMF exhaust system, if it ever comes back in stock. 

I was wondering why the bike was so loud until I found out the previous owner took the arrestor out. It's louder than most other bikes on the trail.

My wife christened it Mike.

 

That super restrictive stock cat with the spark arrestor is much better off removed, although it’s most likely now unauthorized for public trail use (depends where you ride). It is a band aid fix until exhausts come back in stock though. I’d look into the pro circuit over the FMF if you want more than just sound and looks - the T6 will give more notable performance gains. If you haven’t, get a Power Commander, and get rid of the stupid air box snorkel. The stock air filter sucks too, so a Twin or UNI will suit it well. Ricochet makes the best skid plate, although it’s arguably not the most appealing. Just keep riding that thing like you stole it and stay up on the low amount of maintenance required ??

[74 Moto]

9 minutes ago, GreenMike said:

Hey Guys,

bought mine in July (used) after doing a trail day with a local company and getting completely hooked. The learning curve was steep (been solely a street rider for years), but the more I ride, the more the bike reveals its potential to me. I love it.

Between the previous owner and me it's already taken quite a beating cosmetically, but I like the well-worn look. It's not meant to be a garage queen.

It came with aftermarket pegs and Acerbis bark busters, next mods are putting an emperor racing bash plate and eventually the FMF exhaust system, if it ever comes back in stock. 

I was wondering why the bike was so loud until I found out the previous owner took the arrestor out. It's louder than most other bikes on the trail.

My wife christened it Mike.

 

Yes, much louder with the SA out, be careful around the pipe because it will get scorching hot. I was a Power Commander sceptic for a year but it’s the real deal on this bike. Invest the money. Bike runs much cooler and is an animal on the throttle. Rode another 40 miles of single track yesterday, third good ride with the PC and new exhaust. Am now rethinking getting rid of the bike and hanging on to it for my son. 

[Rev Armstrong]

6 minutes ago, 74 Moto said:

Yes, much louder with the SA out, be careful around the pipe because it will get scorching hot. I was a Power Commander sceptic for a year but it’s the real deal on this bike. Invest the money. Bike runs much cooler and is an animal on the throttle. Rode another 40 miles of single track yesterday, third good ride with the PC and new exhaust. Am now rethinking getting rid of the bike and hanging on to it for my son. 

This is the 1 bike I may never trade up for. It’s too fun, and so versatile. My vote is keep it ???

[GreenMike]

1 hour ago, 74 Moto said:

Yes, much louder with the SA out, be careful around the pipe because it will get scorching hot. I was a Power Commander sceptic for a year but it’s the real deal on this bike. Invest the money. Bike runs much cooler and is an animal on the throttle. Rode another 40 miles of single track yesterday, third good ride with the PC and new exhaust. Am now rethinking getting rid of the bike and hanging on to it for my son. 

How hard is the power commander and exhaust install? Should I consider a PC before a new exhaust? I do find that it runs leaner than it should at times and that was noticeable when I put a brand new Hiflo filter with No toil oil. It felt like the bike had lost a bunch of power.

Edited November 14, 2021 by GreenMike

[74 Moto]

You can. I ran rode mine one weekend, without the SA before adding the exhaust. The main thing is getting the bike more fuel, which the PC does. Better do do them together, if you can.  Due to limited availability, I bought a Delkevic Tri-Oval exhaust. Also cheaper. YOU WILL HAVE TO MODIFY IT TO FIT!  Regardless of what Delkevic says. I cut the fixed mounting tab off and am just using the strap. Works fine, I can pick the back of the bike up, grabbing the slip on. It’s not going anywhere. I also went to a 51 tooth rear sprocket, just to better fit the riding I do. The bike will jump up out of a corner now, with all three mods. Everyone on here that said get the PC was right. I wish I had done that the day I bought the bike. 

[74 Moto]

Just now, 74 Moto said:

You can. I ran rode mine one weekend, without the SA before adding the exhaust. The main thing is getting the bike more fuel, which the PC does. Better do do them together, if you can.  Due to limited availability, I bought a Delkevic Tri-Oval exhaust. Also cheaper. YOU WILL HAVE TO MODIFY IT TO FIT!  Regardless of what Delkevic says. I cut the fixed mounting tab off and am just using the strap. Works fine, I can pick the back of the bike up, grabbing the slip on. It’s not going anywhere. I also went to a 51 tooth rear sprocket, just to better fit the riding I do. The bike will jump up out of a corner now, with all three mods. Everyone on here that said get the PC was right. I wish I had done that the day I bought the bike. 

Goodness, you’d think I had been drinking!  Ran rode and do do. My English teachers would be proud?

[Rev Armstrong]

36 minutes ago, GreenMike said:

How hard is the power commander and exhaust install? Should I consider a PC before a new exhaust? I do find that it runs leaner than it should at times and that was noticeable when I put a brand new Hiflo filter with No toil oil. It felt like the bike had lost a bunch of power.

Power Commander is as easy as downloading the software (must be on Windows) and sending the tune to the device and then bypassing the ECU on the bike. Simple plug and play, and it’s a notable difference. If you already have SA pulled you need to get more fuel flowing because now you’re on the extremely lean side of operation. With the SA pulled you’re running about the same pressure as you would with an FMF slip on, which is what I have mapped on my bike with the SA removed. You also need to block off the PAIR/AIS system or else you’re gonna get some aggressive backfiring and unnecessary air flow in the exhaust. Ideally, you should install the PC shortly after the exhaust if not at the same time, but since you have no SA just do the PC now until exhausts are back in stock. On another note, strictly opinion - but I hate NoToil. I think it’s overrated and much less effective than Maxima FFT. It may work better on certain filters, but from my experience I think it’s subpar performance for premium price. The nice part about FFT is it goes on and soaks in like water, then emulsifies to a super tacky resin that holds well in the filter without making a huge mess in the air box. It’s also the easiest to clean from my experience. 

[74 Moto]

15 minutes ago, Rev Armstrong said:

Power Commander is as easy as downloading the software (must be on Windows) and sending the tune to the device and then bypassing the ECU on the bike. Simple plug and play, and it’s a notable difference. If you already have SA pulled you need to get more fuel flowing because now you’re on the extremely lean side of operation. With the SA pulled you’re running about the same pressure as you would with an FMF slip on, which is what I have mapped on my bike with the SA removed. You also need to block off the PAIR/AIS system or else you’re gonna get some aggressive backfiring and unnecessary air flow in the exhaust. Ideally, you should install the PC shortly after the exhaust if not at the same time, but since you have no SA just do the PC now until exhausts are back in stock. On another note, strictly opinion - but I hate NoToil. I think it’s overrated and much less effective than Maxima FFT. It may work better on certain filters, but from my experience I think it’s subpar performance for premium price. The nice part about FFT is it goes on and soaks in like water, then emulsifies to a super tacky resin that holds well in the filter without making a huge mess in the air box. It’s also the easiest to clean from my experience. 

100% agree. I did not do a pair valve mod, but a little unburnt fuel won’t hurt you. There is a PC video that explains some options for helping reduce  the backfiring by changing the idle tune. Super simple. I have some, but nothing I can’t live with. Very simple installation and I am also running the FMF tune. It seems to be a little more aggressive than the Pro Circuit. I had initially said the PC wasn’t a game changer. The more I ride, the more I am changing my opinion. It’s just like Tubliss. For the riding we do, I will never run tubes again. 

[Rev Armstrong]

16 minutes ago, 74 Moto said:

100% agree. I did not do a pair valve mod, but a little unburnt fuel won’t hurt you. There is a PC video that explains some options for helping reduce  the backfiring by changing the idle tune. Super simple. I have some, but nothing I can’t live with. Very simple installation and I am also running the FMF tune. It seems to be a little more aggressive than the Pro Circuit. I had initially said the PC wasn’t a game changer. The more I ride, the more I am changing my opinion. It’s just like Tubliss. For the riding we do, I will never run tubes again. 

No it won’t, performance wise it doesn’t really matter, but the decel popping gets a little annoying. I’ll have to look into what you’re referring to though for good measure. Also gonna depend on your elevation and pressures where you’re riding too, so it may not be as bad for some as it is for others. I agree. The FMF tune i found to be a little more aggressive on the low to midrange as well, really pulls hard out of the bottom. Tubliss on the other hand is something I still haven’t made the jump to, but am very intrigued by. If anything, for the weight saving or running HD/UHD tubes in the rocky terrain. Some of my buddies run mousse and they rave about it, but man it’s treading unknown territory that freaks me out, especially when it comes to suspension and tires! ? I think I’d be quicker to jump, if I knew the investment would be long term. What pressures are you running on the 300 for where you ride? 

[74 Moto]

10 minutes ago, Rev Armstrong said:

No it won’t, performance wise it doesn’t really matter, but the decel popping gets a little annoying. I’ll have to look into what you’re referring to though for good measure. Also gonna depend on your elevation and pressures where you’re riding too, so it may not be as bad for some as it is for others. I agree. The FMF tune i found to be a little more aggressive on the low to midrange as well, really pulls hard out of the bottom. Tubliss on the other hand is something I still haven’t made the jump to, but am very intrigued by. If anything, for the weight saving or running HD/UHD tubes in the rocky terrain. Some of my buddies run mousse and they rave about it, but man it’s treading unknown territory that freaks me out, especially when it comes to suspension and tires! ? I think I’d be quicker to jump, if I knew the investment would be long term. What pressures are you running on the 300 for where you ride? 

So I’m in Texas and the terrain we ride is loamy and full of slick roots in the woods. I run 5.5-6 in the rear and 7 in the front. When we race in the West Texas rocks, I’ll air up a little. One of the guys in our group runs mousse (CRF450RX) and had to buy a Rabaconda so he change tires. He’s not sold on them yet. 

[Rev Armstrong]

10 minutes ago, 74 Moto said:

So I’m in Texas and the terrain we ride is loamy and full of slick roots in the woods. I run 5.5-6 in the rear and 7 in the front. When we race in the West Texas rocks, I’ll air up a little. One of the guys in our group runs mousse (CRF450RX) and had to buy a Rabaconda so he change tires. He’s not sold on them yet. 

I am not sold on the mousse either. I do have interest in the tubliss though, and I know a lot of folks are real happy with them. Do you notice the bike handling better (especially for its weight) being aired down on that type of soil? I’m from idaho so I ride anything from high desert to alpine mountain terrain. Most guys here like tubliss and mousse, I’m just stuck in the past of using what I know. I currently run 8-10 psi in the rear and 10-12 in the front. I have yet to get any pinch flats or issues on tubes, but the idea of being able to air down a few more pounds and not worry about flats is sweet. My other hesitation again was with how it would perform on the 300, so it helps finally hearing from someone who’s put them on this bike 

[74 Moto]

11 minutes ago, Rev Armstrong said:

I am not sold on the mousse either. I do have interest in the tubliss though, and I know a lot of folks are real happy with them. Do you notice the bike handling better (especially for its weight) being aired down on that type of soil? I’m from idaho so I ride anything from high desert to alpine mountain terrain. Most guys here like tubliss and mousse, I’m just stuck in the past of using what I know. I currently run 8-10 psi in the rear and 10-12 in the front. I have yet to get any pinch flats or issues on tubes, but the idea of being able to air down a few more pounds and not worry about flats is sweet. My other hesitation again was with how it would perform on the 300, so it helps finally hearing from someone who’s put them on this bike 

For me, and again, the riding I do, it’s like Velcro. I made the change early on and really noticed the difference recently what I busted one of the inner bladders. Threw a tube back in the front until the new bladder got here. Was back up to 11 in the front and had trouble keeping the front tire tracking through turns. Guess I had forgotten how on tubes.  IMO, huge difference. 

[74 Moto]

19 minutes ago, Rev Armstrong said:

I am not sold on the mousse either. I do have interest in the tubliss though, and I know a lot of folks are real happy with them. Do you notice the bike handling better (especially for its weight) being aired down on that type of soil? I’m from idaho so I ride anything from high desert to alpine mountain terrain. Most guys here like tubliss and mousse, I’m just stuck in the past of using what I know. I currently run 8-10 psi in the rear and 10-12 in the front. I have yet to get any pinch flats or issues on tubes, but the idea of being able to air down a few more pounds and not worry about flats is sweet. My other hesitation again was with how it would perform on the 300, so it helps finally hearing from someone who’s put them on this bike 

By the way, I ran Tubliss on the stock front tire for over a year. Am currently running the stock rear tire. Replaced the rear when I added the Tubliss, wore it out and to save money, but the rear back on (it still had the stripes on it). I have had no issues re-mounting tires and using a somewhat used tire. I will say, the Armor All method has never worked for me. I always have to use LOTS of soapy water to get things to seal off (which is how Tubliss says to do it). When I replaced the bladder on the rear, I used electrical tape on the inner rim instead of rim tape. I have had no issues. 

[Rev Armstrong]

53 minutes ago, 74 Moto said:

By the way, I ran Tubliss on the stock front tire for over a year. Am currently running the stock rear tire. Replaced the rear when I added the Tubliss, wore it out and to save money, but the rear back on (it still had the stripes on it). I have had no issues re-mounting tires and using a somewhat used tire. I will say, the Armor All method has never worked for me. I always have to use LOTS of soapy water to get things to seal off (which is how Tubliss says to do it). When I replaced the bladder on the rear, I used electrical tape on the inner rim instead of rim tape. I have had no issues. 

That’s helpful info, makes me really want to look into it. Thanks for the input! I think with the weight of this bike, having more bite out of the tire setup can make or break peoples opinion of it. I don’t find many guys riding the same type of terrain that I do, and as hard as I do - which makes it hard to gather valuable info in regards to performance upgrades. I may look further into it now!

[GreenMike]

2 hours ago, Rev Armstrong said:

Power Commander is as easy as downloading the software (must be on Windows) and sending the tune to the device and then bypassing the ECU on the bike. Simple plug and play, and it’s a notable difference. If you already have SA pulled you need to get more fuel flowing because now you’re on the extremely lean side of operation. With the SA pulled you’re running about the same pressure as you would with an FMF slip on, which is what I have mapped on my bike with the SA removed. You also need to block off the PAIR/AIS system or else you’re gonna get some aggressive backfiring and unnecessary air flow in the exhaust. Ideally, you should install the PC shortly after the exhaust if not at the same time, but since you have no SA just do the PC now until exhausts are back in stock. On another note, strictly opinion - but I hate NoToil. I think it’s overrated and much less effective than Maxima FFT. It may work better on certain filters, but from my experience I think it’s subpar performance for premium price. The nice part about FFT is it goes on and soaks in like water, then emulsifies to a super tacky resin that holds well in the filter without making a huge mess in the air box. It’s also the easiest to clean from my experience. 

It all starts to make sense. I will install a PC over the winter break (season's ending up here in Ontario) and will keep an eye out for the exhaust in stock. I do get a lot of pops on engine braking so the PC is a requisite. Mine doesn't that hot though, at least not as hot as some people have described it.

My buddies swear by tubliss and I'm due for a new set of tires anyway so I'll do it all at the same time. I was considering mousse, but the life span is pretty short given the price and I don't ride multi-day races (at least not yet) so it isn't as critical for me.

[74 Moto]

4 minutes ago, Rev Armstrong said:

That’s helpful info, makes me really want to look into it. Thanks for the input! I think with the weight of this bike, having more bite out of the tire setup can make or break peoples opinion of it. I don’t find many guys riding the same type of terrain that I do, and as hard as I do - which makes it hard to gather valuable info in regards to performance upgrades. I may look further into it now!

Yea, that’s why you see me repeatedly say, “for the riding I do”. Recommendations from someone riding up and down the street don’t help me much but may help others.