Jump to content

Is a 2015 Wr250f a good year model?

Recommended Posts

Came across a used clean 2015 Wr250f that I haven’t ridden yet and was wondering if it was a good year and buy at 4700? Did first year FI have problems?   Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It has the advantage of having a back up kick start lever, 

a feature removed from newer models to save weight.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

'16 and on models got the uprated conrod following failures in yzf

No reported failures on '15 WR's but they dont usually see the abuse of the mx bikes

Edited by GuyGraham
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a '15 WR250f that I race and trail ride with 240 hours on it. Valves are still in spec as of last week and still on the same piston. I change the oil every 6-10 hours or less depending on ride/race conditions. Air filter is changed often as I have three of them to rotate through. $4700 could be a good price, just depends on the condition and how it was taken care of. Great bike and the suspension is really good. Is it stock or has the ECU and exhaust been changed? The comp ECU is a must for that bike, wakes it up to match the FX.

  • Like 2
  • Helpful 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
33 minutes ago, tmac1366 said:

I have a '15 WR250f that I race and trail ride with 240 hours on it. Valves are still in spec as of last week and still on the same piston. I change the oil every 6-10 hours or less depending on ride/race conditions. Air filter is changed often as I have three of them to rotate through. $4700 could be a good price, just depends on the condition and how it was taken care of. Great bike and the suspension is really good. Is it stock or has the ECU and exhaust been changed? The comp ECU is a must for that bike, wakes it up to match the FX.

same boat here. 15 WRF.  I have the ECU and its great. Headlight/taillight  and the stock rear sprocket (50T) are the only differences to the FX baring the exhaust. 

  • Helpful 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Test road the 15 and talked to the previous owner. He said the bike would drain the battery quickly when not in use and he always had to keep it on a trickle charger. I’ve found electrical drains in cars hard to find and fix, what about bikes? I as also wondering if anybody found a map that improves low end torque? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 hours ago, Harry Potter said:

Test road the 15 and talked to the previous owner. He said the bike would drain the battery quickly when not in use and he always had to keep it on a trickle charger. I’ve found electrical drains in cars hard to find and fix, what about bikes? I as also wondering if anybody found a map that improves low end torque? 

Bike doesn't just "drain" the battery. The battery is probably done. I just replaced my 2015 OEM battery a couple weeks back with a new one (Lithium) and its great.  Before that I  was trickle charging mine to keep it up. I have had the bike 2 years and the previous owner about 9 months. These OEM batteries don't last long. 

 

 

  • Helpful 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Check if any aftermarket electrical items have been added to the bike:

trip computer, cooling fan, brake light switch etc.

A small current draw from an improperly wired accessory could be draining the battery.

  • Helpful 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, mlatour said:

Check if any aftermarket electrical items have been added to the bike:

trip computer, cooling fan, brake light switch etc.

A small current draw from an improperly wired accessory could be draining the battery.

ah good point!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I found a thread on adding key switches and complaining about batteries dying. The bike I am looking at has blinkers, horns, and key switch added. Looks like the key needs to be deleted or properly wired. The bike also seemed to have a I guess you would call it a hanging idle problem. On another thread someone described it as, “It jumps from idle to like 4000 RPMs - nothing in between unless you work the clutch constantly.” Anybody else run into that?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:


×
×
  • Create New...