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Clutch Install = Grinding Noise

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So I just replaced my clutch again because I had completely burned up my last one after ~800 miles and some nasty hill climbs because I so very stupidly forgot to make sure I had proper freeplay in my clutch lever...  Yea dumb me has paid for that one.  So I burned the clutch and just now replaced it with another crfsonly heavy duty clutch kit with the EBC friction plates and the Barnett springs. 

During install I had to clean out my sidecase of clutch debris as well as in the clutch housing.  The gears looked clean somehow, but when I drained my oil it sure was foul, my poor, poor bike.  After cleaning everything right proper and letting the new friction plates soak in oil overnight I install my new clutch kit. 

All seems to go well except for the fact that my clutch plates, (the ones with the teeth on the inside diameter) are darkened from burning my previous clutch and I can't see the white mark that the manual calls for on Clutch Plate B; which is the 1st clutch plate that gets installed after the 1st clutch disc/friction plate.  Is that specific clutch plate supposed to be orientated a specific way or something?  The manual has it pointing to the top of the engine.  I can't see the mark on any of the plates so I put what I believe to be clutch plate B on after 1st putting on the 1st clutch disc. 

After I install everything in what was proper order according to my manual, minus the white mark for the 1st clutch plate that goes in, I go to start my bike to begin bleeding air out of the coolant after adding oil and changing my oil filter, and as soon as I go to start the engine I hear a terrible grinding noise right by the clutch.  I immediately let go of the starter, but it is quite obvious there is something really bad going on in there.  What did I do wrong?  Do I need new clutch plates along with the clutch discs?  Or is it because I didn't have a mark on my clutch plates telling me where to line it up?  All I know is she needs torn down again and my 305l is begging to feel a proper clutch.

Edited by MasoBall

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Not the best of news...  Turns out when I installed the clutch I wasn't able to tighten the one clutch bolt down enough.  Last time I installed the clutch I snapped 3 out of the 5 bolts when setting them to the 9ft lbs the manual calls for.  Luckily I had 3 bolts of the same size, but stronger and replaced the busted ones with those.  Knowing what happened last time and me not having any more spare bolts I tried to tighten it just before snapping.  I could feel that if I went any harder the stock hardware was going to snap again against these stiffer Barnett springs; so I opted for a little less torque on those shitty bolts. 

Well it didn't even last long enough to fire up the bike and upon disassembly I now see that the bolt loosened itself just enough to scar my sidecase and rip off one of the bolt threads for the clutch center.  I now need a new clutch center, side case, and a clutch pressure plate.  To my luck those parts aren't looking too expensive and I should be able to spend under $180 and replace all of that.

However, my manual calls for a specific clutch center tool (part #07724-0050002) to be able to remove and install it and that costs about $160.  I'm really hoping I can find a cheaper solution instead of having to almost double the cost of repair for one tool.

Also future tip to anyone doing a clutch install with tougher Barnett springs, please do yourself a favor and buy some better hardware to install your clutch with as I've had 3 bolts snap when tightening and now another fail to hold itself.  I'll also be using locktite from now on to ensure that can't happen again.

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3 hours ago, RudeJeepin said:

2003 CRF450R clutch Bolts.

Honda#

BOLT-WASHER (6X25)

90022-MM5-000

Oh perfect I was just searching for what bolts to replace my broken ones with thanks!  ?

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6 hours ago, MasoBall said:

Oh perfect I was just searching for what bolts to replace my broken ones with thanks!  ?

Your welcome.

I've saved that from one of the older clutch threads on here. That part number fits a lot of other bikes as well.

Make sure to use blue toctite, not red.

Edited by RudeJeepin

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Update I now have a new noise that appears somewhat randomly after putting everything back together again.  I didn't get the tool for tightening my clutch center nut so I used an impact driver to snug it up.  Manual calls for 80ft/lbs, and since I don't have the tool I can't use a torque wrench to check how tight it is so I'm just kind of eyeballing that part.

The noise that I hear almost sounds like something is binding up like a metal on metal being really tight trying to spin making a sort of whining or whirring noise.  Seems to happen if I'm in a high gear and spinning the rear tire out in some mud and using a little bit of clutch?  Hard to make it happen every time, but last time that it happened I was stuck at the top of a hill climb after dropping it and I was in a high gear using some clutch to get unstuck when it made that whining noise kind of intensely.  After I got out it seemed like my clutch wouldn't disengage to allow me to easily switch gears like holding the clutch in did nothing to break the power.  Bike stalled and I shifted into neutral and noticed my clutch lever returned to how it normally felt, as it felt slightly tight when it was stuck in a high gear after making that noise.  Felt that shouldn't be happening so I returned home and am just wondering what went wrong now.

There are 2 washers one that goes in before the clutch center, and one that goes on after the clutch center and before the nut.  I have read that it's possible I flipped one of those 2 washers so that my clearance is now slightly off?  Or I am wondering if it is because I perhaps tightened the clutch center nut too hard?  Really hoping someone has some insight as to what is making that noise so I don't have too start flipping washers and praying that is the right setup as I have already torn my bike apart 4 times trying to right this clutch.

BTW those bolts you mentioned RudeJeepin, "90022-MM5-000" held up wonderfully for the clutch installs and am grateful for that much hahah.  After I installed everything this last time I seriously couldn't believe how much harder my rear wheel was biting.  I was easily power wheeling in 2nd gear and I felt my acceleration was WAY quicker with this proper clutch combo'd with my 305.  I'm actually kind of upset at how long I was driving around with my clutch stealing all that power lol!  Also my bike feeling so good right now, but making this bad noise is such a tease I really really want to ride while I still have some nice weather here, but I know that noise is something I need to fix pronto.

Edited by MasoBall

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When I removed the judder spring(replaced with stock full size fiber and metal plate), I put in cbr300r barnett springs in and said to myself "these clutch bolts look like they are made of cheese". I took clutch spring bolts from my junk 03 crf450r motor and seamed much stronger. I then ordered new clutch spring bolts from that model.

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On 9/26/2019 at 10:23 PM, CoronaCarl said:

2003 CRF450R clutch Bolts.

Honda#

BOLT-WASHER (6X25)

90022-MM5-000

Hey CC,

I know this post is several months old, but does that part # for those clutch bolts include ALL 5 of the bolts, or do I have to order 5 separate bolts?

Thank you, and hopefully the only Corona you have is the one in your avatar.  😁🍺

Edited by Ocaptainmycaptain

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24 minutes ago, Ocaptainmycaptain said:

Hey CC,

I know this post is several months old, but does that part # for those clutch bolts include ALL 6 of the bolts, or do I have to order 6 separate bolts?

Thank you, and hopefully the only Corona you have is the one in your avatar.  😁🍺

I'm pretty sure that number is only 1 bolt. 

Ha, no nasty 😷corona here, but unfortunately no good 🍻Corona here either.

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35 minutes ago, CoronaCarl said:

I'm pretty sure that number is only 1 bolt. 

Ha, no nasty 😷corona here, but unfortunately no good 🍻Corona here either.

I think you are correct - looks like it's for one bolt only.

Thank you.  Be safe.  😷:cheers:

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