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Rebuilt engine now gaskets slipping out?? HELP

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Hi guys, I recently rebuilt the engine on my 07 x and after 8 hours the paper gaskets seem to be sliding out the edges of the cases.. everything was torques to spec and a friend of mine who is a motorcycle mechanic of 14 years helped me through the rebuild. He had me use threebond 1027b black gasket sealant on the paper gaskets (I questioned this as with my engineering experience I’ve never use a sealant on something that’s job is to seal and he said he’s always used this stuff blah blah blah) I’ve added some pictures showing no gasket when I first bolted the engine back up and now showing gasket out the edges

 

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

IMG_7902.jpgIMG_7852.jpgIMG_7901.jpg


Hi guys, I recently rebuilt the engine on my 07 x and after 8 hours the paper gaskets seem to be sliding out the edges of the cases.. everything was torques to spec and a friend of mine who is a motorcycle mechanic of 14 years helped me through the rebuild. He had me use threebond 1027b black gasket sealant on the paper gaskets (I questioned this as with my engineering experience I’ve never use a sealant on something that’s job is to seal and he said he’s always used this stuff blah blah blah) I’ve added some pictures showing no gasket when I first bolted the engine back up and now showing gasket out the edges
 
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
 
IMG_7902.thumb.jpg.c97a648aadf112a0dfcde03999de1840.jpgIMG_7852.thumb.jpg.d526e9f363c2acfdc58e259068a8c0e5.jpgIMG_7901.thumb.jpg.ec74af9ae0bf9c1be05f4c722e86e6bf.jpg

Third picture shows signs of coolant too!

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1207B is a gasket maker, not a gasket sealant.

It looks like whatever is in it has reacted with the coating on the new gaskets (they are not paper). 

On the gaskets, they do not call for any sealant and are supposed to be installed dry.

If it were me, I'd pull it apart and replace the gaskets given that it is oozing that much.   It's not so much the outside that you need to worry about, but what might be squeezing into the motor.

 You could though leave it as is....does have an oil filter of course on the engine side if something happened to break free.  Tranny side a chunk of gasket material is not going to do anything other than get chewed up.

 But if you do decide to leave it as is, I'd be super cautious for the first ten hours or so having multiple hot/cold cycles and check oil and coolant levels frequently.  I would also change the oil on both sides a little sooner than normal.

 As far as future work, I would suggest getting a shop manual and following it.   The "it's the way I've always done it" is not always correct.   It's a modern engine and gaskets and sealants have come a long way from the days of putting gasket sealant on everything.   Procedures change as well.

One example; I have a small Travel Trailer.   Took it for inspection, guy pulls the wheel to check brakes, put's it back on and tightens the axle nut by feel and then backs it off  to get the hole for the cotter pin.  Wheel as a result had some side to side play and was obviously looser than it should be.

 I had read the manual though and with that bearing/hub design, the bearing was supposed to be pre-loaded to a specific torque setting doing a procedure of rotating the wheel while doing so, holding the wheel and backing off the nut till loose, then taking it to finger tight.    I mentioned that as nicely as could be (of course he was offended) and of course the response was "that's the way I've always done it and I've never had a problem".

 Well maybe not a problem, but I bet my bearings would not have lasted as long if I had left it like that.  

 Point being that what worked in the past is not always best now.  Engines and machining have come a long way.  You don't even break-in an engine like you used to in the past.

Best of luck with the bike and the rebuild project.

Jim.

 

Edited by Jim Dettman
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as long as you torqued to spec, just run it and see what happens...don't think some extra goo will cause a seized piston...if you see weeping after an hour or two, then you can open it up and replace the gasket without the sealant..you need to ride this weekend don't ya?

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If the sealant has caused a reaction with  gaskets and they have softened and crushing out then the head bolts may now not be under the right load and causing oil leaks and possible leaks around the head gasket (out an in), i would strip and replace or i would spend more time checking for more leaks than riding 

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Thank you very much for your input, I really appreciate everyone taking the time to reply. Decisions been made and I’ll pull the motor over the next couple of weeks and change the gaskets. Luckily it’s only just gone back together so should come apart easy! 

Thanks again! 

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IMG_7997.jpg
IMG_8003.jpg

Pulled the motor out yesterday, you can see how the gasket maker hasn’t bonded to the gasket at all and almost has a “crazed effect” as much as the gasket is spreading outwards it was still inside the cover too, almost like it had swollen..


I strained the engine and tranny oil in a paint filter and found pieces of gasket maker in there.

I also found LOTS of aluminium filing in the transmission oil!
IMG_7994.jpg

I found marks on the inside of the cover and it looks like the clutch basket has been making contact with the cover?
IMG_7999.jpg

Here’s a question.. should the clutch basket have any vertical play? I have a bit and when I mimic pulling the clutch in by pushing the fork the play increases. Now don’t get me wrong it’s not a lot of play but there’s definitely some and then more when clutched in.

I’ve spoke to Honda and have genuine gaskets coming next week.

IMG_8006.jpg

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On any bike I have worked on I have never noticed any play , you might have a worn clutch basket bearing

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