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1986 xr 250 shock-rear

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Hey guys,

I have an old 1986 xr 250 shock im putting on a crf 230.

I welded new shock mounts to the frame because the spring was rubbing the frame and had to move it a bit.

As i was cleaning the shock i noticed it doesnt have a valve for the nitrogen on the remote re.

Anyone know if this can be rebuilt or have any info about it ? im looking for a rebuild kit and want to rebuild it before i install it on the bike.

Any help would greatfully appreciated

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Just ran across your question, sorry late to the party. I just removed the reservoir cap after looking at it for a month. 

If it's anything like the XR 350 or this XR 500 shock with the remote reservoir there is a metal cap on the end of the reservoir which must be removed exposing the schrader valve. Other end of reservoir has the adjusting knob. https://www.ebay.com/i/233331517602?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=233331517602&targetid=860219315257&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=903197

Off the 84 XR350 Factory Shop Manual it states "remove the cover on the reservoir" but no method how to remove it? Just figured it out minutes ago.

If your reservoir has a metal cap with a 7/8" diameter x 5/16" metal dome or nipple (this on the XR 350 reservoir) what I did to remove the cap without any damage to the reservoir and cap. It's a snug fit plus add age, and corrosion it's stuck. Some will freak out using heat, use common sense you'll be ok. Took a hand held propane torch aimed at the end of the reservoir body angled 45 degrees towards the metal cap end heating the first 1/2" of the reservoir body making it hot to the touch but not to spit back at you (below 212*F) allowing the aluminum to expand more than the steel cap. Quickly lay reservior flat on a piece of carpet, I used a stick of maple 1 1/4" wide x 3/8" thick x 10" long (scrap) on edge resting on the dome or nipple of the metal end cap then gave it a couple firm wacks with a plastic hammer. Note plastic not metal should you by accident strike the reservoir body not denting or damaging it. Do not hit the end of the aluminum reservoir body as the plug under the cap must be removed, it has a close tollerence to the cylinder bore. A couple CAREFUL hits on one side, flip reservoir over 180 and strike the opposite side, the cap will begin to come out of the recessed pocket. Under the cap will be the schrader valve cap and valve. 

There is also a cap on the shock body where the plunger rod sticks out, it (the aluminum cap) has a small notch 3/16" x 3/16" on the side for a punch you can hit to remove the cap. I used a small piece of square keyway stock in the square hole at 90* to the shock body then struck the rod removing the cap. No burred up aluminum cap notch. I do not Caveman butcher my bikes, use the proper equipment or tools plus common sense.  

I'm installing a 84 XR 350 shock after rebuilding with a internal ring reducing full shock extension on the 85 XL 350 also allowing adjustable vs the fixed XL shock.   https://www.ktm-parts.com/634-8366.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=&scid=scplp634-8366&sc_intid=634-8366&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuKnB_ZTa5wIVDMZkCh2w7gueEAQYAyABEgLqXvD_BwEBTW, the XR 350 shop manual specs out 242 psi nitrogen charged shock. I'm in the process of assembling a high pressure regulator (0-6,000 psi) with special stainless flex hose with a 0-400 psi secondary gauge to recharge my own shocks after rebuild. Already have a 40 cu/ft nitrogen bottle. Best of luck, hope this helped......~~=o&o>...... 

Edited by ThumperHead

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