Finchy9999 My Ride Posted September 30, 2019 Hey guys, hoping for some wisdom here. Someone tried to steal my 2009 Wr450f at uni today. They cut the 2 wires on the key barrel and twisted them together, couldnt get the bike started and ran away. I tried twisting the wires back together at the time and use my key, but the dash wont even light up, wont kick start, nothing. The three fuses under the seat seem fine. I got the bike home on my ute and have pulled the front light off ect. I cant fathm how the key works, the two wires seem to be a closed circut straight to the 'key light' (light never worked) on the dash. At no stage does another wire enter this little circut, not positive/negative nothing. Ive attached a coppy of a wiring diagram which seems to confirm this is right no.25 on the diagram. And nothing else seems to be touched. I have to be missing something, how would turning a key in a closed circut with a globe, do anything..... This morning turning the key turned on the dash/ignition, now it dosnt, any pearls of wisom out there peoples? Any help much appreciated, Thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
William1 My Rides (2) Posted September 30, 2019 If... you have properly reattached the wires to the switch, the fuses are definitely not blown, did you check the battery for a full charge (12.8 volts)? Check the voltage when you switch it on as well, it should not drop much, perhaps two tenths of a volt. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChampWazza Posted September 30, 2019 Does the ADR kit keep the original Push Button On/Off switch in place? Part #20 below. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Finchy9999 My Ride Posted September 30, 2019 8 hours ago, William1 said: If... you have properly reattached the wires to the switch, the fuses are definitely not blown, did you check the battery for a full charge (12.8 volts)? Check the voltage when you switch it on as well, it should not drop much, perhaps two tenths of a volt. Thanks for your reply. The battery was actualy dead before hand (ignition still turned on). I assumed that's why they couldn't steel it, because they tried the electric starter and just flattened the battery. I've now charged it up, but even with the battery still connected to the trickle charger, no ignition or lights at all. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Finchy9999 My Ride Posted September 30, 2019 46 minutes ago, ChampWazza said: Does the ADR kit keep the original Push Button On/Off switch in place? Part #20 below. Thanks for your reply, no there isn't an on/off switch. It appears to be replaced by the key barrel. Only 2 wires tho, red and black. Not 4. It's 2 15cm wires. It isn't hard to trace, I'm dumbfounded how they just attach at a globe. I must be missing something ?. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChampWazza Posted October 1, 2019 From what I can decipher, red should be 12v+ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
William1 My Rides (2) Posted October 1, 2019 1 hour ago, Finchy9999 said: Thanks for your reply. The battery was actualy dead before hand (ignition still turned on). I assumed that's why they couldn't steel it, because they tried the electric starter and just flattened the battery. I've now charged it up, but even with the battery still connected to the trickle charger, no ignition or lights at all. If the battery was fully discharged, it may be ruined. It might appear to take charge, show 12.8V but as soon as a load is applied, go flat. Hence you need to put the meter on it. Then if the battery tests out, follow the hot from the battery to the ignition switch and on though the bike. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Finchy9999 My Ride Posted October 1, 2019 2 hours ago, William1 said: If the battery was fully discharged, it may be ruined. It might appear to take charge, show 12.8V but as soon as a load is applied, go flat. Hence you need to put the meter on it. Then if the battery tests out, follow the hot from the battery to the ignition switch and on though the bike. I've got a battery report here. Not 100% but still at 119cca and fully charged Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChampWazza Posted October 1, 2019 Time to get the 'ol multimeter out and track/trace that missing 12v+ from your switch...maybe they disrupted a plug behind the headlight/under the tank when they were mucking around mate ?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
William1 My Rides (2) Posted October 1, 2019 You still have to to do the tests ON THE BIKE with the key on. and then using the meter, track the current. BTW, IMHO, that battery is bad and needs to be replaced. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Finchy9999 My Ride Posted October 1, 2019 2 minutes ago, William1 said: You still have to to do the tests ON THE BIKE with the key on. and then using the meter, track the current. BTW, IMHO, that battery is bad and needs to be replaced. Ye I know it needs replacing, that was just evidence that it's not prohibiting the ignition. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Finchy9999 My Ride Posted October 1, 2019 5 hours ago, ChampWazza said: Time to get the 'ol multimeter out and track/trace that missing 12v+ from your switch...maybe they disrupted a plug behind the headlight/under the tank when they were mucking around mate ?? Yea I understand there has to be. But i just can't see any 12v connected to the switch at all. That's the most confusing part. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
William1 My Rides (2) Posted October 1, 2019 1 minute ago, Finchy9999 said: Ye I know it needs replacing, that was just evidence that it's not prohibiting the ignition. Actually, it is, the battery is bad. With the battery on the bike, check the voltage, then key on, check the voltage. You have to test things to determine the issue Under 12V, probably no spark. If you do not do the testing, you will not solve the problem. If you do noty understand how to to do the testing, find a pal that does or a competent shop. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Finchy9999 My Ride Posted October 1, 2019 33 minutes ago, William1 said: Actually, it is, the battery is bad. With the battery on the bike, check the voltage, then key on, check the voltage. You have to test things to determine the issue Under 12V, probably no spark. If you do not do the testing, you will not solve the problem. If you do noty understand how to to do the testing, find a pal that does or a competent shop. Thanks for trying to help. Wired in, reads 13v. Turning igniontion on still 13v. I know it makes no sence but the barrel is dead set not connected to anything but a globe ? and cant see any loose wire or point where one used to be. Not that it helps but I'll attach the pictures of the 2 cut barrel wires And the dash globe at the other end of them hahaha. Anyway, got a motorbike mechanic coming out Thursday to have a look. I'll let you fellas know what it was. Thanks for trying to help, much appreciated Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jens Eskildsen Posted October 1, 2019 Sidenote: Dont park there again, they will be back after the bike. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
William1 My Rides (2) Posted October 1, 2019 From the looks of the diagram, the only connections to the bike from the 'add-on' road legal harness is a black and a yellow wire. I'd wager the black is a ground lead and the yellow, the hot. So I'd start there. If there is no power, then you need to trace the wiring from the battery to where it makes the connection to the road legal kit. Best of luck getting it sorted. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Maximus83 Posted October 5, 2019 Get a new keyed ignition for $30, new lithium battery for $70, install, bingo! Probably be less than your traveling “motorbike mechanic” haha Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
