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13 hours ago, Hammy-56 said:

I think the newer Chevys are really good looking trucks...

I have 2 friends with them. One with 70K mi and it already burns a lot of oil. After a google search, apparently its happened to quite a few people.

Another buddy just bought a new one and right away it had some weird electric issues. It was fixed, and so far so good. 

But its given me a bad taste for them.

Electrical gremlins and GM seem to go hand in hand.  The newer GM trucks (1/2 tons) aren't very good looking, IMHO. Ford and Dodge are the best looking 1/2 tons. Ford hasn't made and ugly f150 in like 40 years, with the exeception of all of their step-sides and the rounded f150 from about 97 to 03-04. Those were ugly mo-fo's! :D

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I drive a 1977 Chevy C20 Camper Special 350 Turbo400.

Paid $800 a few years for a One owner Arizona rust free truck with a clean interior with no rips in the seat.

Put a set of Goodyear Duratrac tires on, replaced the Windshield, Alternator, Rebuilt the Q Jet, Belts, U joints and Center bearing, changed all the fluids and chassis lube and recharged the AC which will freeze you out even on the 120+ days.

For $3000 I have a truck that I can load a ton and a half of gravel.

If I  fill the tanks Two 20 gallon side tanks 35 gallon rear tank and have a range of a 1000 miles without refueling which we do several times a year out to So Cal to visit the daughter in Big Bear.

I could have walked in to the Ford dealer and paid cash for a new F250 but that would be just a waste of money.

Ever notice all the new vehicles riding the tow truck to the dealer so they can try to figure out why it will not run.

Service adviser's phone call to owner:" The Blue tooth has caused the display screen to trigger the anti theft ignition lock that then burned out the climate control which is why we cannot get to unlock with out replacing the main computers."

With the simple hand tools I keep under the seat along with a few spare parts, I can fix any problems that the old Chevy might have.

OLD IS COOL and practical too.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Truman Sparks
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11 minutes ago, Truman Sparks said:

I drive a 1977 Chevy C20 Camper Special 350 Turbo400.

Paid $800 a few years for a One owner Arizona rust free truck with a clean interior with no rips in the seat.

Put a set of Goodyear Duratrac tires on, replaced the Windshield, Alternator, Rebuilt the Q Jet, Belts, U joints and Center bearing, changed all the fluids and chassis lube and recharged the AC which will freeze you out even on the 120+ days.

For $3000 I have a truck that I can load a ton and a half of gravel.

If I  fill the tanks Two 20 gallon side tanks 35 gallon rear tank and have a range of a 1000 miles without refueling which we do several times a year out to So Cal to visit the daughter in Big Bear.

I could have walked in to the Ford dealer and paid cash for a new F250 but that would be just a waste of money.

Ever notice all the new vehicles riding the tow truck to the dealer so they can try to figure out why it will not run.

Service adviser's phone call to owner:" The Blue tooth has caused the display screen to trigger the anti theft ignition lock that then burned out the climate control which is why we cannot get to unlock with out replacing the main computers."

With the simple hand tools I keep under the seat along with a few spare parts, I can fix any problems that the old Chevy might have.

OLD IS COOL and practical too.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Those are cool trucks! Unfortunately in CA a 77 has to pass smog every 2 years. :cool:

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Actually Did you know that not everyone in Calif. needs a smog check every two years?
Alpine
Amador
Calveras
Del Norte
Humbodlt
Imperial
Inyo
Lake
Lassen
Mariposa
Mendicino
Modoc
Plumas
Sierra
Siskiyou
Trinity
Tuolumne
These counties are exempt from Smog checks every two years.


If you live in six counties that require smog certifications within certain Zip Codes only. These counties are:
El Dorado, Placer, Riverside, San Bernardino, San Diego, and Sonoma.

If you leave your Car or Truck in those counties that are exempt or an exempt zip code in the six counties and inform the DMV that is is not at your house but is at your vacation home ( Hint Hint) in an exempt county or Zip code, they will enter a code into the computer and no longer will you need to get it smogged every two years.

Just an FYI.

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I don't live in any of those counties or have a vaca home. That would require lying to the gov't. 

Where do I sign up??? :lol:

I knew that there were some exempt counties, but, I din't know it was that many. I'm outta this state soon, tho.

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On 11/28/2019 at 11:42 AM, Truman Sparks said:

I drive a 1977 Chevy C20 Camper Special 350 Turbo400.

Paid $800 a few years for a One owner Arizona rust free truck with a clean interior with no rips in the seat.

Put a set of Goodyear Duratrac tires on, replaced the Windshield, Alternator, Rebuilt the Q Jet, Belts, U joints and Center bearing, changed all the fluids and chassis lube and recharged the AC which will freeze you out even on the 120+ days.

For $3000 I have a truck that I can load a ton and a half of gravel.

If I  fill the tanks Two 20 gallon side tanks 35 gallon rear tank and have a range of a 1000 miles without refueling which we do several times a year out to So Cal to visit the daughter in Big Bear.

I could have walked in to the Ford dealer and paid cash for a new F250 but that would be just a waste of money.

Ever notice all the new vehicles riding the tow truck to the dealer so they can try to figure out why it will not run.

Service adviser's phone call to owner:" The Blue tooth has caused the display screen to trigger the anti theft ignition lock that then burned out the climate control which is why we cannot get to unlock with out replacing the main computers."

With the simple hand tools I keep under the seat along with a few spare parts, I can fix any problems that the old Chevy might have.

OLD IS COOL and practical too.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Would do the same if I could. Doesn't work in the rust belt though. 15 years max and then they are no longer serviceable. If you buy used, well your just getting someone else's rusty mess. My 5 year old truck that barely gets used and under washed after every snow storm already looks bad underneath. Had to cut the calipers off with the death wheel when I did a brake job this summer. 

What I wouldn't give to just be able to drive a simple square body with a 350 forever. Just keep fixing it and rolling along. 

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On 11/28/2019 at 8:42 AM, Truman Sparks said:

I drive a 1977 Chevy C20 Camper Special 350 Turbo400.

Paid $800 a few years for a One owner Arizona rust free truck with a clean interior with no rips in the seat.

Put a set of Goodyear Duratrac tires on, replaced the Windshield, Alternator, Rebuilt the Q Jet, Belts, U joints and Center bearing, changed all the fluids and chassis lube and recharged the AC which will freeze you out even on the 120+ days.

For $3000 I have a truck that I can load a ton and a half of gravel.

If I  fill the tanks Two 20 gallon side tanks 35 gallon rear tank and have a range of a 1000 miles without refueling which we do several times a year out to So Cal to visit the daughter in Big Bear.

I could have walked in to the Ford dealer and paid cash for a new F250 but that would be just a waste of money.

Ever notice all the new vehicles riding the tow truck to the dealer so they can try to figure out why it will not run.

Service adviser's phone call to owner:" The Blue tooth has caused the display screen to trigger the anti theft ignition lock that then burned out the climate control which is why we cannot get to unlock with out replacing the main computers."

With the simple hand tools I keep under the seat along with a few spare parts, I can fix any problems that the old Chevy might have.

OLD IS COOL and practical too.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I like my old pickups (72 Chevy k20 and 71 Gmc k2500,) but they are not even comparable to my Dodge 2500 in capabilities. While the Dodge is much more complicated and has thin sheet metal, it's a much better built truck in all other regards. The brakes and frames alone on the old trucks aren't up to the same tasks as a newer truck. 1/2 a yard of gravel in my 72 and I really notice it. 1/2 of gravel in my diesel and it just helps it ride smoothly.

My diesel has been super reliable. The only issues I had was a failed clutch/flywheel because I ran too hot of a tune on the stock set-up, and a bad AC compressor. It's never been to the dealer as long as I've owned it.

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Would do the same if I could. Doesn't work in the rust belt though. 15 years max and then they are no longer serviceable. If you buy used, well your just getting someone else's rusty mess. My 5 year old truck that barely gets used and under washed after every snow storm already looks bad underneath. Had to cut the calipers off with the death wheel when I did a brake job this summer. 
What I wouldn't give to just be able to drive a simple square body with a 350 forever. Just keep fixing it and rolling along. 


I hear you on that up in New England. I’m super jealous of the guys I see in California or down south that are driving 15-20 yr old trucks like no problem. Try to buy a ten year old truck up here and it’s already garbage, it’s a much better “investment” to buy new or newer. My brand new ram 1500 was only like $2500 more than a two year old comparable truck with 30k miles. Search the big rebates especially with the rams!

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You have to park em or douche with Fluid Film, Amsoil MPP, etc if you want them to last up here.  My 2015 HD has only seen salt twice since I've owned it and it's still like new underneath.  I drive a beater 98 Camry in winter and pretty much any time I don't need a truck to do truck stuff.  Wife's new 4Runner got a heavy application of Fluid Film this fall to avoid the inevitable and protect our investment.

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