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kickithard

How to grease dirtbike linkages ( the right way!)

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9 minutes ago, kickithard said:

 

Check out my new vid, have a 19 rmz build. Hit that subscribe button if keen for that

 

 

 

 

So you left out half of the procedure.

The part where you remove and clean all the needles and remove all the old grease from the linkage.

Also just packing a random grease ontop of whatever grease the oem put in isnt exactly the best plan as not all grease thickeners are compatible, some are extremely incompatable.

Further many people think that any ol grease or moto brand waterproof grease (cough) belray water proof (cough) has your back, nope you need an ep grease for the shock loads, and preferably one thickened by an aluminum complex for water resistance.

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I had to FF to 2:30 as nothing happened during those 2.5 mins. Just babytalk is all I heard. 

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I am a long time believer in Bel Ray but for me the grease is not suitable for linkage, steering head etc.

Edited by Piney Woods
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If you can find it Houghton Aqua -Shield is an unbelievably tenacious waterproof and rust resistant grease.  https://www.blackburnmarine.com/product/509/aqua-shield-aqua-lube-grease-lubricants-houghton-international

It's very well known in the offshore oilfield industry for use in salt water. 

I have used it on linkage bearings for years. 

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So far I´ve been using LE Lubricants Almagard Lithium EP grease, both the NLGI 1(3751, wheel bearings, bolts, spindles) and the NLGI 2(3752, needle bearings, steering stem bearings etc.) depending on application with excellent waterproof capabilities.

Had a check and they also have a Aluminum Complex EP NLGI2 grease that looks good on paper, called Almaplex 1299. Ordered some and will try it next time I need to grease my linkage, if it´s even more water proofed than their lithium grease it will be awsome!

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I wish they made these things for linkage greasing as well: https://www.steelhorseinnovations.com/store/bewlbar/

I did my linkage around 3h on the 19 XC using AMSOIL Dominator I bought with the bewlbar. The factory grease on the linkage looked ok but wasn't really packed in there like I would like. It was greenish so maybe it's that motorex stuff? The swingarm on the otherhand was just about dry and already full off black sludge looking stuff. 

So now for the swingarm bearings I just need to remove 3 6mm screws to move the frame guards out of the way then hit them with the grease gun

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1 hour ago, Dirtstache 556 said:

I wish they made these things for linkage greasing as well: https://www.steelhorseinnovations.com/store/bewlbar/

I did my linkage around 3h on the 19 XC using AMSOIL Dominator I bought with the bewlbar. The factory grease on the linkage looked ok but wasn't really packed in there like I would like. It was greenish so maybe it's that motorex stuff? The swingarm on the otherhand was just about dry and already full off black sludge looking stuff. 

So now for the swingarm bearings I just need to remove 3 6mm screws to move the frame guards out of the way then hit them with the grease gun

Zerks and stuff are only good for situations that do not require removal of water and contaminants. A zerk is fine for a street bike. For off road, the bearing must be disassembled, cleaned and regreased. Pumpoing new grease in will not expel debris.

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1 minute ago, William1 said:

Zerks and stuff are only good for situations that do not require removal of water and contaminants. A zerk is fine for a street bike. For off road, the bearing must be disassembled, cleaned and regreased. Pumpoing new grease in will not expel debris.

Keeping it full of grease helps keep the debris out to start with. I'm simply not going to pull the swing arm off every time I get the bike wet, but this way I can keep those bearings full of grease 

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36 minutes ago, Dirtstache 556 said:

Keeping it full of grease helps keep the debris out to start with. I'm simply not going to pull the swing arm off every time I get the bike wet, but this way I can keep those bearings full of grease 

Actually, on a machine like a dirt bike, you do not want the bearings full of grease. You want expansion room. The pivot points get hot, the grease expands slightly. Air can compress. So no grease gets out and nothing gets sucked back in when it cools. You only want/need enough grease to provide a layer of lubrication. It should never be packed full.

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3 minutes ago, William1 said:

Actually, on a machine like a dirt bike, you do not want the bearings full of grease. You want expansion room. The pivot points get hot, the grease expands slightly. Air can compress. So no grease gets out and nothing gets sucked back in when it cools. You only want/need enough grease to provide a layer of lubrication. It should never be packed full.

The bearing areas are not air tight, so there will be no compression of air from heating up.

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5 minutes ago, woods-rider said:

The bearing areas are not air tight, so there will be no compression of air from heating up.

the way the system works, you pump in grease until you see it starting to come out. based on that my understanding is that grease would seep out when it gets hot which is why it needs to be added back often. Keeping it full allows excess to seep out over time, but the more grease you have in there, the less water and other crap can enter. 

I'm not saying that you never have to take it out and clean the bearings, but you at least have grease in there between maintenance intervals, as like I said most people simply aren't going to take off their swing arm after every ride to clean and re-grease these things

Edited by Dirtstache 556
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6 minutes ago, woods-rider said:

The bearing areas are not air tight, so there will be no compression of air from heating up.

I know, but the air space is for expansion. Try it. Clean, grease a coating on everything, do not pack it full. You are going to have less debris in there the next servicing.

This is about cars (bob the oil guy forum) but is covers it as well.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=211959

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