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Rmz-250 will sputter but not start. Help!!!!

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My 2010 rmz250 will sputter like it wants to start, but it won’t. I cleaned the spark plug and there was spark, and I put new gas in it. Air filter is clean also. Do I just need to buy a new plug? Someone please help, it ran fine the night before and now all of a sudden it won’t start. 

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3 minutes ago, CAPT ED said:

Check valve clearance ? 

No I haven’t done that. 

Just now, ParkerM85 said:

No I haven’t done that. 

Is it easy to check and adjust or will I have to send to a shop

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13 minutes ago, ParkerM85 said:

No I haven’t done that. 

Is it easy to check and adjust or will I have to send to a shop

If you've never been into an engine it will feel like a daunting task (speaking from recent experience). But its relatively simple and pretty straight forward. You'll only be getting to the parts beneath the valve cover. And if your clearance is within tolerance you're good to go. There are plenty of write up on here. I actually plan to check mine this evening since my bike will also not start right now.

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throw a brand new plug in it guy.

make sure it has a fresh new air filter in it.

don't jump on the kicker to start it, fast smooth full travel solid motions.  

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8 minutes ago, burntvalves said:

throw a brand new plug in it guy.

make sure it has a fresh new air filter in it.

don't jump on the kicker to start it, fast smooth full travel solid motions.  

Do you think it could be the spark plug because the one in it sparks

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1 minute ago, burntvalves said:

yes guy, I do.  

Ok, I’ll try it out guy. My dad thinks it’s the plug so I guess we’ll see. 

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Typical scenario for zeroed out valve clearances.

Really simple to check- remove tank, remove valve cover, rotate engine to top dead center, aline cam timing marks with top of cylinder head with cam lobes facing up and away from each other. Use a feeler gauge to check clearances- here's a video from Rocky MTN on how to do a dual cam bike which is practically the same setup as yours 

 

If the valves are zeroed out (especially the intakes) reshimming them is only going to be a quick solution to the problem before it zeros out again and will require a valve job. 

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Garden hose or pressure washer?

The latter can be problematic if done at point blank range, forcing water into electrical connectors/connections and past various seals.

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30 minutes ago, mlatour said:

Garden hose or pressure washer?

The latter can be problematic if done at point blank range, forcing water into electrical connectors/connections and past various seals.

Hose

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I don't suppose you checked your valve clearance?

Maybe a good question to ask is, how many hours are on the bike/since last rebuild and valve check?

I will tell you this. I just did a complete rebuild of my engine, nothing needed replacement but I had to pull the entire engine apart to remove metal shavings. On top of that, the bike was rebuilt less than 8hrs before i did this and i checked valves clearance before and after assembly/disassembly. I ended up with a "No Start" condition after my rebuild which was alleviated by checking and re-shimming my valves again (I wouldn't have thought it to be necessary). There's no guarantee its a valve clearance thing but this forum is FILLED with no-start and running issues that end up being valve clearance related.

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On 2/3/2020 at 2:55 PM, ParkerM85 said:

it ran fine the night before and now all of a sudden it won’t start. 

Most hard to start 4-strokes usually fall in valvetrain or carburetor problems,

While it wouldn't rule them out, since it otherwise started fine the day before it was washed I'd look into the water ingress theory first.

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