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Beta 2020 issues & fixes

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On 4/10/2020 at 2:10 PM, bradje said:

Thanks alot GB. I can think of no disadvantage of doing this.

 

That one way check valve is to keep fuel from leaking out when the bike hits the ground.  It could be very dangerous especially if you're under the bike when fuel is leaking out.

Doc

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11 minutes ago, Doc_d said:

That one way check valve is to keep fuel from leaking out when the bike hits the ground.  It could be very dangerous especially if you're under the bike when fuel is leaking out.

Doc

It even more dangerous when you are trying to out run lions, tigers and bears and you have fueling issues from this check valve failing. It's less for personal harm and more for environmental harm!

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I am putting turn signals on a 2020 RR300. Is the flasher connector the 2 wire L connector under the number plate?

Thanks

Mike

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Posted (edited)

On the 2020 RR models - when is everyone replacing the fork oil?

I know they're similar to the 2019 OC forks but figured I'd ask here if anyone has serviced their 2020 RR specifically. I also haven't found a 2019 or 2020 Sachs OC service manual - it seems very elusive...

I got 2L of the recommended motel FL 5wt so I'm probably going to do them next week (I'll be between 25 and 30 hours at that point).

The MXTech lucky inserts aren't quite ready for the 2020s yet (according to endurospec) so I'm gonna milk these forks until summer.

Edited by mobile chernobyl

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15 hours ago, Brutus59 said:

I am putting turn signals on a 2020 RR300. Is the flasher connector the 2 wire L connector under the number plate?

Thanks

Mike

That is most likely what it is for, the same as on my '16 300RR.

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15 hours ago, mobile chernobyl said:

On the 2020 RR models - when is everyone replacing the fork oil?

I know they're similar to the 2019 OC forks but figured I'd ask here if anyone has serviced their 2020 RR specifically. I also haven't found a 2019 or 2020 Sachs OC service manual - it seems very elusive...

I got 2L of the recommended motel FL 5wt so I'm probably going to do them next week (I'll be between 25 and 30 hours at that point).

The MXTech lucky inserts aren't quite ready for the 2020s yet (according to endurospec) so I'm gonna milk these forks until summer.

I changed the oil pretty early as I was changing the springs. Beware of the extension piece between the cap and the end of the damper rod.

Drain the oil in the normal way and work the damper rod well to get all the oil out. I leave mine inverted overnight. Refill using the method in Jeff Slavens' video for the WP OC fork. I left a 130mm air gap and it works great for me.

The original oil was horrible smelly stuff, God knows what it was.

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On 3/22/2020 at 1:24 AM, Sierra_rider said:

Also, the pipe coupler is worse than ever...or at least mine is. On my '15 I was able to get it to stop leaking with zip-ties. On the '20, I had to resort to tie-wire...not before most of the motor was coated in spooge. A little bit of aluma-brite and a toothbrush, and it's all good now.

How well does that aluma-brite work on the cylinder? I was trying multiple non-aggressive soaps with not much luck. Not wanting to use any degreasers as they have made aluminum pieces look pretty nasty in the past. 

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13 minutes ago, WVU_Petro said:

How well does that aluma-brite work on the cylinder? I was trying multiple non-aggressive soaps with not much luck. Not wanting to use any degreasers as they have made aluminum pieces look pretty nasty in the past. 

Looks pretty good, you gotta be careful where you use it. It will etch the surface of some non-aluminum stuff like the hose clamps on the carb etc. It's also not good on turned or polished bits of aluminum. I use it on the unfinished parts of the hubs, but if it touches the 'turned' part, it will etch the surface. Also other places I'll use it time-to-time are fork lugs and brake calipers.

On my '15 300, the cylinder was a tan color from the stain of 5 years of dirt. The brightener brought it back to almost new looking.

It's this stuff:

spacer.png

Edited by Sierra_rider
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1 hour ago, WVU_Petro said:

How well does that aluma-brite work on the cylinder? I was trying multiple non-aggressive soaps with not much luck. Not wanting to use any degreasers as they have made aluminum pieces look pretty nasty in the past. 

If you are just trying to get the spooge off, try brake cleaner and some scotch brite. That aluminum brightener is just acid, if you get it on anything else or leave it sit too long it will do harm like said above, brake cleaner usually makes the spooge come right off

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this brings up a good point. So much internet noise about taking seat off before washing bike.  I cant imagine having my seat off and washing bike, too many electronics and battery etc...how do you folks wash bike?

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44 minutes ago, bradje said:

this brings up a good point. So much internet noise about taking seat off before washing bike.  I cant imagine having my seat off and washing bike, too many electronics and battery etc...how do you folks wash bike?

Once in a great while I’ll take off the seat. Most of the time the seat stays on for cleaning. 

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Posted (edited)

I usually take the seat off, use a twinair airbox wash cover and spray the air box with maxima chain clean, I don't worry too much about the electronics. I hate a dirty airbox and this gets it super clean and looks like new.

 

Btw maxima chain clean up would probably work well on spooge on the clyinder I've used it on many materials/ surfaces and not had any issues. 

https://www.maximausa.com/product/clean-up/

I have a RE so no OI pump or tank

Edited by velocityjunky

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On 4/18/2020 at 12:14 PM, Hubert Carpet said:

I changed the oil pretty early as I was changing the springs. Beware of the extension piece between the cap and the end of the damper rod.

Drain the oil in the normal way and work the damper rod well to get all the oil out. I leave mine inverted overnight. Refill using the method in Jeff Slavens' video for the WP OC fork. I left a 130mm air gap and it works great for me.

The original oil was horrible smelly stuff, God knows what it was.

Wanted to follow up on this. After putting some fresh Silkolene 5wt in the forks with the slaven's method its night and day plusher.

The only problem is now the back end feels less worthy haha. All this has convinced me to drop some $$ on suspension. 

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Glad you found it beneficial. It's a simple and reliable method and shows how capable the latest Sachs forks can be, given some decent quality oil and correct spring rates for rider weight.

Having come from a PDS KTM 300 EXC the Beta back end is much more controlled but I do miss the simplicity of the PDS setup. No linkage to maintain or bash about in my local rocky terrain.

The rear shock on my 2013 300RR used to lose gas pressure and needed topping up every 35-40 hours. Has anyone experienced this on more recent models?

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5 hours ago, Hubert Carpet said:

.The rear shock on my 2013 300RR used to lose gas pressure and needed topping up every 35-40 hours. Has anyone experienced this on more recent models?

Had a bladder mentality....😁

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On 4/25/2020 at 7:19 PM, bradje said:

this brings up a good point. So much internet noise about taking seat off before washing bike.  I cant imagine having my seat off and washing bike, too many electronics and battery etc...how do you folks wash bike?

If you haven't dielectric greased ALL of your connections, I would worry about washing the bike....period!  

I take mine off when I wash out the air box (with the Twinair cover).

Never a problem.

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Had my horn bracket break on the mx track, started hearing a good clank over bumps. Horn was bouncing around under headlight

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Have someone experienced that the spring on the shock is not what is written on?

I have stock spring 5,2,...75 kg without gear, what should be ideal but with totally opened preload I have 9,3 cm of sag 

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Posted (edited)

The stock 5.2 spring should be ideal for your weight.

Are you saying that you have 93mm of racing sag with zero preload on the shock spring?  What is the static sag measurement?

Edited by Chas_M

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1 hour ago, Chas_M said:

The stock 5.2 spring should be ideal for your weight.

Are you saying that you have 93mm of racing sag with zero preload on the shock spring?  What is the static sag measurement?

39mm

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