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It's a crazy fine adjustment. It's usually about .5v at closed, but .51 or .52 can matter. Typically, the TPS is what starts the ignition map. Get it too high and it begins to advance the timing, which will push your idle speed up, you then turn it down, and the engine dies because the timing then retards and the idle speed is too low...

Why do you think the TPS needs messed with?

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8 hours ago, Shawn_Mc said:

It's a crazy fine adjustment. It's usually about .5v at closed, but .51 or .52 can matter. Typically, the TPS is what starts the ignition map. Get it too high and it begins to advance the timing, which will push your idle speed up, you then turn it down, and the engine dies because the timing then retards and the idle speed is too low...

Why do you think the TPS needs messed with?

Shawn, 

I've gone through everything I can get to on the bike. The bike will not start reliably. Sometimes it'll fire after a few seconds of cranking, most times it won't. If I can get it fired up the idle speed does not change as the manual states it should idle high until it warms up. After the bike is warmed up, I shut it off and it won't start back up again. I've got a long list of troubleshooting items I've tried on it-see below. The only two things I've not done yet are a leak down test and TPS.

 

 

SYMPTOMS: Not starting or intermittent/difficulty starting.

ITEM CHECKED or REPLACED

 

RESULT

 

NOTES

1.       Replaced spark plug and checked gap.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Grounded spark plug to cylinder to test for spark.

 

Spark plug did not have a stud on the tip. Installed stud and refitted coil.

Was able to get it started once or twice.

 

After idling for a few minutes it died. Took me a few tries and I got it re-started.

 

Turned engine off after letting it idle and could not get it started again.

 

 

Strong, consistent spark produced.

 

 

2.       Replaced fuel pump, lines and installed inline filter

 

Used a new fuel pump for a 2011 Husaberg FE450.

 

Has oem fuel regulator in it.

See #1

 

 

3.       Replaced pulsar coil sensor

 

Factory Gas-Gas part.

See #2

 

 

4.       Cleaned and oil airfilter

 

 

No start

 

 

5.       Replaced main relay (underseat)

 

 

No start

 

 

6.       Installed new battery

 

 

No start

 

 

7.       Checked ignition switch and replaced connectors.

 

        

          Also bypassed    

         ignition switch.

 

 

No start

 

 

 

 

 

 

No start

 

 

8.       Replaced fuel injector and tested for spray

 

 

No start

 

 

9.       Pulled fuel line from injector to ensure pump was pushing fuel out.

 

No start

 

 

10.   Attempted to kickstart bike.

 

No start

 

 

11.   Valve clearances

 

Remove flywheel cover and you should see a gap in the teeth on the back of the flywheel, count 7 teeth from that gap and the 7th tooth should be bang in the middle of the pick up sensor for the spark, that is TDC....

 

Intake spec is:

 0.1mm to 0.2mm

Measured:    .16 and .15

 

Exhaust Spec is:

0.2mm to 0.3mm

Measured:  .203 and .203

 

 

 

12.   Leak down test

 

Bike is equipped w/auto decomp on cam?

 

 

Factory specs calls for 145 psi.

13.   Check TPS

Not sure of what spec should be on this bike.

 

 

 

14.   Tried slight changes with throttle during start up.

Possible TPS issue?

No start.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

15.   Replaced Coolant Temp Sensor

Installed SENSOR,COOLANT TEMP (SYNERJECT) part no. 5455-1, 279-16

to replace coolant temp sensor OEM Siemans part no. 5455-1, 214-05.

 

*Both sensors are made in Czech Republic

 

 

 

 

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Those years with the slant valve cover can be pissy on start and restart if the exhaust valve clearance isn't just right, particularly the one associated with the decomp. It's not so much the clearance as it is the timing the valve bumps open for decomp.

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