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Beta2Stroke Simplified Wiring

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Just out of curiosity, I copied the Beta wiring diagram and then traced the wires that I wanted to keep.  I use the headlight and tail light but I don't need switches for the lights and I only need "low beam" for both so it's just two wires each.  I also use an after market enduro computer that uses external 12v power but none of the Beta diagnosis lights.  The wheel speed sensor is wired directly to the computer.  No oil injection, oil level, throttle position, fan, turn signals, brake lights, etc.  What I was left with is just a few wires.  I do like the idea of real sealed connectors like the Superseal type shown above.  Many of the connectors can be eliminated though.

I like the idea of a combo start/kill switch but they are physically large so I will keep the OE start switch and then mount a basic old school kill switch on the left bar.

I like planning my work by going over the wiring diagram.  I also learn some things about the bike like the lights are run AC which I suppose is typical for a dirt bike.

Fun project!

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I finished the project.  I eliminated a bunch of wire and a lot of connectors.  It cost me $9 for a generic kill switch.  Not including solder, heat shrink tubing, tape, zip ties, etc.  I have a headlight and tail light that are always on.  All the O.I. and street legal stuff is gone.

I wouldn't recommend this project unless you have a lot of patience and know what your doing electrically.  It's a relatively complex and fiddly project.  Much more difficult that rebuilding a top end, for example.

Cheers.

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On 4/28/2020 at 8:58 AM, WVU_Petro said:

Good deal, that’s what I ended up doing as I couldn’t find it anywhere else. Thanks!

Man did you guys use this weird Italian website where you order but don't pay and supposedly they'll email me about payment?  I want to keep the lights and ODO so I'm going the Boano route but this is strange.  I couldn't find it anywhere else so I guess we'll see where it goes.  If my last harness lasted 20 hours I hope the one the dealer replaced it with lasts long enough to get this new one on here. I don't want to be replacing ECU's and regulators out of pocket when the warranty is up.

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I did something similar to my 2018 Xtrainer.

My solution was to replace the light switch and MAP switch with toggles and to replace the combined start/stop with individual buttons. One toggle is a 3 pole, 3 position switch for high and low beams. The second toggle is a simple on-off for the wet/dry maps.

I replaced all the non-waterproof molex connectors to deutz-type connectors from Amazon. I used a 6-conductor connector for the headlight switch and put a matching connector on the OEM switchgear to make it easy to go back to fully street legal. These Chinese connectors were quite inexpensive, but make sure to buy the crimping tool for the terminal ends.

Aircraft and marine wiring is always crimped for reliability. Soldering turns a flexible, multi-strand wire that is resistant to vibration into a single strand susceptible to work hardening and fracture.

Bare wires were covered with braided cable sleeving and adhesive heat shrink. I used 3M linerless splicing tape to waterproof the connectors on the toggle switches. Attached is a color code for the wires I used to do all this. 

 

switch gear-1.jpg

xtrainer wiring.JPG

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19 hours ago, DJDingleDick said:

Man did you guys use this weird Italian website where you order but don't pay and supposedly they'll email me about payment?  I want to keep the lights and ODO so I'm going the Boano route but this is strange.  I couldn't find it anywhere else so I guess we'll see where it goes.  If my last harness lasted 20 hours I hope the one the dealer replaced it with lasts long enough to get this new one on here. I don't want to be replacing ECU's and regulators out of pocket when the warranty is up.

Yep, used google translate, and not going to lie, it was one of the more odd and sketchy feeling purchases I had made. However, once I paid, I got a tracking number the same day and the harness showed up a week later. One thing I was sketched out about was the currency conversion and if I was going to get charged a stupid amount for the transaction. Short answer, no, I my card has free conversion, and PayPal would have other wise charged $6. 

As for the kit. A bit pricey at $150 after shipping, but for someone without a lot of electrical confidence, it saved me some stress and time. Was able to hook it up in 30min, and the only issue I have seen is that I must have plugged my headlight coupler incorrectly as at first it was going from low beam to high beam with the on off switch and no it just stays on the low beam regardless. So I need to figure that out.

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13 minutes ago, WVU_Petro said:

Yep, used google translate, and not going to lie, it was one of the more odd and sketchy feeling purchases I had made. However, once I paid, I got a tracking number the same day and the harness showed up a week later. One thing I was sketched out about was the currency conversion and if I was going to get charged a stupid amount for the transaction. Short answer, no, I my card has free conversion, and PayPal would have other wise charged $6. 

As for the kit. A bit pricey at $150 after shipping, but for someone without a lot of electrical confidence, it saved me some stress and time. Was able to hook it up in 30min, and the only issue I have seen is that I must have plugged my headlight coupler incorrectly as at first it was going from low beam to high beam with the on off switch and no it just stays on the low beam regardless. So I need to figure that out.

Ok cool. Yeah I did the same with google translate. I just wanted to make sure I wasn’t getting scammed. At this point in my life my time is way more valuable and plugging in a $150 harness is way better than trying to rewire this thing, even though I feel very confident wiring up a bike. I just don’t want to. I bought a brand new bike to spend more time riding and less time &%$#@!ing around working on the thing. 

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Just to follow up, I installed my harness today and it’s working great. It eliminates a ton of excess wires and makes things a lot simpler. I did receive it quickly from Boano in Italy. Honestly I got it more quickly from them via DHL express than Most of the stuff I order here in the states.

i guess the only weird things are the TPS doesn’t plug in anywhere now because the race harness doesn’t have a plug for it. And there’s a connector with red and black wires under the tank that I’m not sure what they’re for. I’m assuming power supply for a fan, which would be cool.

there were no instructions in the package and you have to look them up on the Boano website which is kind of annoying. But it worked great so it is what it is. 

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16 hours ago, DJDingleDick said:

Just to follow up, I installed my harness today and it’s working great. It eliminates a ton of excess wires and makes things a lot simpler. I did receive it quickly from Boano in Italy. Honestly I got it more quickly from them via DHL express than Most of the stuff I order here in the states.

i guess the only weird things are the TPS doesn’t plug in anywhere now because the race harness doesn’t have a plug for it. And there’s a connector with red and black wires under the tank that I’m not sure what they’re for. I’m assuming power supply for a fan, which would be cool.

there were no instructions in the package and you have to look them up on the Boano website which is kind of annoying. But it worked great so it is what it is. 

Hey DJ just to confirm, the head light does still work right? I've read conflicting things about the boano harness. Over here the only requirement for enduros is a working headlight. Also is the portion of the harness going up to the bars improved?

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12 hours ago, NjBetaRider said:

Hey DJ just to confirm, the head light does still work right? I've read conflicting things about the boano harness. Over here the only requirement for enduros is a working headlight. Also is the portion of the harness going up to the bars improved?

YES. Headlight works. BUT, the switch they gave me is like an on/off switch but instead of turning it on and off , it switches from hi to low and runs all the time in whatever selection it’s on. Which is fine with me. If one filament goes you have a backup and if I run my race plate there’s no light to come on anyway. But it’s a little weird that it says on/off and should probably say hi/low.

There is definitely still a cold crimp in this harness in the same spot as the stock one at the neck. It has to be less wires though and I ran it between the radiator and the frame like a lot of guys on here do. So that’s a little disappointing, but I think it will be ok. I took a piece of 5/8” (i think) fuel hose and slit it down one side and slid it over the harness in that area to keep it from flexing and to protect it. And the cold crimp is now down by the radiator where it won’t move and flex like it did before up at the neck. If anything it’ll be WAY simpler to track down issues because it’s less than half the wires. 

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