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2018 KTM 690 Enduro: where'd my clutch fluid go?


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Was wondering if someone could help. I have a 2018 KTM 690 enduro. I stopped for a minute then the clutch just went dead. There is no resistance. Was able to get it back in neutral to get started then to get home. Took the top off the fluid reservoir and it’s empty. My question is, isn’t this a closed system. With nothing leaking, where did it go?  Also do you have to use specific fluid on a KTM?  I’m new to KTM and just bought the bike yesterday. Any help would be appreciated. 

Edited by Buxton
Had to remove the word “brake”
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  • NoFiddyPilot changed the title to 2018 KTM 690 Enduro: where'd my clutch fluid go?

Sounds like a slave cylinder. When it fails, the oil goes into the crankcase I believe. I know that there is an aftermarket for those since the OE one seems to fail. This seems to be a popular upgrade. 

https://www.rottweilerperformance.com/oberon-billet-clutch-slave-cylinder-ktm-690/ Sorry, I don't have my 690 owners manual any longer for the fluid type. Does your reservoir cap list it?

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From what I have read. Its the o-ring that is culprit with the lose of fluid. You could just by a hole pack of them off of Amazon for a lot less than a new slave cylinder. I am surprise this problem is still happening. Had the same slave cylinder problem on my 950 Adventure back in 2006.

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16 hours ago, brutis said:

From what I have read. Its the o-ring that is culprit with the lose of fluid. You could just by a hole pack of them off of Amazon for a lot less than a new slave cylinder. I am surprise this problem is still happening. Had the same slave cylinder problem on my 950 Adventure back in 2006.

buying a whole pack of cheap o-rings will cost less, but won't keep you from being stranded somewhere with no clutch.

 

the 2020.5 have an updated slave from Magura but some seem to still fail..even though it's better than the crappy one.. the design is closer to an Oberon unit. it can be recognized by having 4 dots  on the side where the rod pushes out instead of having 3 dots on the old model.. but apparently they still have issues.,.,

 

if you want piece of mine and less downtime, do it right the first time. I changed mine before it broke down...

 

you gotta pay to play. ?

 

 

Edited by Deadring
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On 4/26/2020 at 7:00 PM, B Squared said:

Sounds like a slave cylinder. When it fails, the oil goes into the crankcase I believe. I know that there is an aftermarket for those since the OE one seems to fail. This seems to be a popular upgrade. 

https://www.rottweilerperformance.com/oberon-billet-clutch-slave-cylinder-ktm-690/ Sorry, I don't have my 690 owners manual any longer for the fluid type. Does your reservoir cap list it?

image.png

the model of Oberon you need is the CLU-1000 if I remember correctly. 

 

as for the oil,  on the Magura master it says DOT 4.. so I used that and have no issues

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Never said to buy cheap O-rings. All my 06 950 Adventure needed was a O-ring replacement and that  lasted until I sold the bike with 50k on it. If you go over to Adventure Rider forum or dig around this site you will see a lot of guys are just changing the O-ring and they are good to go. But if you have money burning a whole in your pocket go for it. It is  easy just to throw money at a problem to try and fix it, instead of fixing the real problem.

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Engine oil is Motorex 10-60, if you just got the bike its probably worth giving it an oil and filter change anyway since you don't know exactly whats in there currently, especially as there are now a few oz worth of mineral oil or brake fluid lurking in it....

 

The Oberon is a great unit, better materials, pretty quick to install to get you back out riding sooner, and I never had an issue with the Oberon once installed in my old 2010, and felt that there was improved/lighter lever action over stock. Seems like the enduro guys suffer more slave failures than the supermoto guys, maybe just because its hard to lay down the 690 power in dirt without a lot of clutchwork so it sees more use/modulation/wear on the stock unit's o-ring and plastic piston...

 

I'll look to one when my 2019's goes. The orange one add 4 HP.

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The key to no failures is changing the fluid often. At least once a year. Every oil change might  be excessive. I don't try to flush the lines. Just clean out the reservoir. My fluid is always black and there is black crud in the bottom of the reservoir. I figure it's aluminum oxide and that grit is what eats up the O ring. 

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  • 4 months later...

The factory slave cylinder seals failed on my 2019 KTM 690 Enduro and I ended up swapping it for an Oberon. When I had the clutch slave off there was engine oil seeping from around the push rod. I can't see any type of push rod seal listed on the clutch schematics, so is it normal for a bit of oil to work its way into the slave chamber? I'd appreciate any input. I'd like to get at least one more trip in before the winter rains without worrying about being stranded in the middle of nowhere.

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17 hours ago, Turtle450 said:

The factory slave cylinder seals failed on my 2019 KTM 690 Enduro and I ended up swapping it for an Oberon. When I had the clutch slave off there was engine oil seeping from around the push rod. I can't see any type of push rod seal listed on the clutch schematics, so is it normal for a bit of oil to work its way into the slave chamber? I'd appreciate any input. I'd like to get at least one more trip in before the winter rains without worrying about being stranded in the middle of nowhere.

Yes that's normal. The oil keeps the seals lubricated and sealed. The hydraulic system is a closed circuit. Meaning the brake fluid is only contained within the clutch MC, SC, and line. You depress the lever, and the little metal ball gets pushed out to actuate the clutch. When the seals fail on the stock unit, the brake fluid makes its way in to the oil sump which contaminates it. 

I have the Oberon unit as well. I believe the instructions state to apply some oil on the surface of the rubber parts and seals of the SC.

Edited by almazing
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On 4/29/2020 at 9:08 PM, DrKayak said:

The key to no failures is changing the fluid often. At least once a year. Every oil change might  be excessive. I don't try to flush the lines. Just clean out the reservoir. My fluid is always black and there is black crud in the bottom of the reservoir. I figure it's aluminum oxide and that grit is what eats up the O ring. 

Well then tell that to the guy in my group that made it to just under 600 miles on his 2020 701e. We were going up Scotch Creek near rico co when it shat the bed. Just as a reference, this is a rocky 2 track, that goes a couple miles or so and climbs several thousand feet in elevation. This was one of 3) 2020 701’s that made it up to the top, one with less miles at just 300ish and mine at 2000ish miles. So luck of the draw maybe? Rider error, don’t really see how that can be. Just a cheap, crap single o-ring design with plastic parts? That be my bet!

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Mine broke at 880km. Will be replacing with Oberon at an early 1000km service next week. I am really disappointed with KTM on this one, since it’s such an old and ongoing flaw in the production line. 
 

In 2015 I bought a 1290 Super Adventure. It was first production year and it had its flaws. Understandable to a certain degree. 
 

But a 690 with its heritage and intended use (and abuse).....a broken clutch slave at less than 1000km is just not ok. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

The Brembo orings are normally good up to about 3 years, if the fluid is kept clean. its a $2 oring

Im not sure of the oberon longevity, but can you easily get rebuild parts?

 

My 14 year old japanese sport bike with Hydraulic clutch, never had any issue. 

BUt really popping in a new piston Brembo oring every few years, is not a big deal for me, once understood what going on.

The piston seal, meant to keep the oil seperated, is molded to the piston.  Some have said minute amounts of oil can cross contaminate, and aide in destruction of the oring faster.

my 500 was soley ran with Motul Brake fluid 5.1, and flushed a few times per year, and the oring lasted 3 to 4 years till I saw issues. I now just run Prestone Dot 4, cause the 5.1 Motul didnt really avoid the issue. so why waste the money I say. That wasnt the only reason, also the master rubber diaphragm bloated by 3 years also requiring replacement.

I have like 54,000 miles on my 500

 

Edited by Spud786
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  • 10 months later...

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