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Rear wheel bearings: 1 side went fine, other side, driving with hand bearing driver, drove bearing in fine, but started to hang up halfway through. It's probably dicked up my hub and I'm f*%ked. Got jammed at an angle I'm sure (notice slide hammer angle). No job ever goes according to plan. It's never easy for me. Anyways, noticed inner race wasn't turning, so brand new bearing is busted and needs removed. Slide hammer isn't budging it. Torch hasn't worked. It's jammed and won't come out. Ideas?

20200501_221120.jpg

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2 minutes ago, Kwest364 said:

Rear wheel bearings: 1 side went fine, other side, driving with hand bearing driver, drove bearing in fine, but started to hang up halfway through. It's probably dicked up my hub and I'm f*%ked. Got jammed at an angle I'm sure (notice slide hammer angle). No job ever goes according to plan. It's never easy for me. Anyways, noticed inner race wasn't turning, so brand new bearing is busted and needs removed. Slide hammer isn't budging it. Torch hasn't worked. It's jammed and won't come out. Ideas?

20200501_221120.jpg

If the slide hammer won't pull it out, then maybe you could drive it out from the other side.  Slide hammer should have enough hit to remove it.  Once you do get it out, look for any nicks, ridges or other imperfections, and use some course sand paper, round file, or dye grinder with a de-burring bit.  On the way back in take you time with the slide hammer, or a drift/ punch and slowly walk it back in there.  Use some lubricant in the hub housing.

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I suck at working on stuff too.

It does get easier the more you do it.

I buy two of all parts now in case I screw it up.  

I'd drive it out from the other side with a dead blow hammer and some type of rod.

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If you flip the wheel over and support it between a bench and a sawhorse etc where you can pull down and the wheel can't move the slide hammer will work better. A punch from the other side would too, but with your like I would stick to the slide hammer 

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Just now, ossagp1 said:

If you flip the wheel over and support it between a bench and a sawhorse etc where you can pull down and the wheel can't move the slide hammer will work better. A punch from the other side would too, but with your like I would stick to the slide hammer 

That's a good idea, would take all the slack out.  I need to buy one of these slide hammers. Never used one.

They all kind of look cheaply made.  Any good ones to recommend?

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I'd flip it over and try to hammer it out from the back side. Obviously you'll need a new bearing, but on installation I prefer using a socket/driver and regular hammer because you have to use a little more control over a slide hammer.

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When driving the new bearings in I like to use the old bearing to tap the new one in about half way and then I use a large socket 32mm to lightly tap around the outside of new bearing, you'll know it is bottomed out when the sound of the hammer tapping changes noticeably.

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Punch out from the side but 1st support the hub sitting on something solid, NOT sitting on the tire. The tire and spoke flex rob all the energy.  Tap it out straight.  Drive the new one in with a correct size driver or socket so the impact is or the outer part of the bearing not the balls and race. Don't try to pull it in.

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11 hours ago, joemc04 said:

That's a good idea, would take all the slack out.  I need to buy one of these slide hammers. Never used one.

They all kind of look cheaply made.  Any good ones to recommend?

Snap on or Mac make great ones. Expect to pay a grand price. Craftsman makes decent ones. I have old Proto's.  Try to buy used with puller attachments.

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13 hours ago, joemc04 said:

That's a good idea, would take all the slack out.  I need to buy one of these slide hammers. Never used one.

They all kind of look cheaply made.  Any good ones to recommend?

Lol, a slide hammer is not a precision tool.  Don't spend Snap On or Mac prices on one.

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4 minutes ago, BOAB said:

Lol, a slide hammer is not a precision tool.  Don't spend Snap On or Mac prices on one.

Yeah. I looked at them. For that price I'll buy a mini lathe and make one.

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Posted (edited)

And nobody recommended the PROPER way to install wheel bearings.Put the bearings in the deapfreacer overnight ,then heat the hub with a hairdryer or torch and the beerings fall into the hub all by itself.

 

Edited by Clasen_Motors_KTM
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14 hours ago, joemc04 said:

That's a good idea, would take all the slack out.  I need to buy one of these slide hammers. Never used one.

They all kind of look cheaply made.  Any good ones to recommend?

RMATVMC has Tusk pullers, works great. 

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8 minutes ago, Clasen_Motors_KTM said:

And nobody recommended the PROPER way to install wheel bearings.Put the bearings in the deapfreacer overnight ,then heat the hub with a hairdryer or torch and the beerings fall into the hub all by itself.

 

Yeah I don't even need to heat the hub. Putting in the freezer shrinks em up enough they go in EZ. And they only need 20-30 minutes in the freezer.

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You should be able to hammer and punch it out from the other side. I have used screwdrivers in absence of a punch. As for reinstall, Harbor Freight has a race and seal driver I have used a few times. Perfect for this application and only cost like $40. Not something you can fail at making so no worry about quality. Google a 10% off coupon before you go and show them on your phone. It's a gift that keeps on giving.

https://www.harborfreight.com/Bearing-Race-and-Seal-Driver-Set-10-Pc-63261.html

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18 minutes ago, PierreTheWelder said:

Laying a welding bead on the inside of the outer race and they fall off easy.  If you have the equipment

 

No kidding

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