DR350s 1990 Oil Flooding problem

[johntee]

Hi guys, Changed the oil and oil filter today on my 1990 DR350s (L model), but on refilling; it took about 3 liters of oil before it reached the mark on the dipstick. I think it is seeping into the crank cases because when I removed the oil drain plug, most of the oil came out of the crank case.  I can't find where the oil flow non-return valve is supposed to be because I want to clean it and check if is working correctly.

The parts fische shows it clearly as a seat; a ball, and a spring, but the Suzuki manual doesn't explain where it is or show how to get to it.

Please help.

 

[plugeye]

better read the owners manual.

never do it the way you did. drain oil from the oil tank, drain from engine case, change the filter. add 2 quarts only.

check/ adjust after every ride of over 10 miles or so.

[johntee]

Thanks plugeye,

That's exactly the way I did it at first, but when I checked the level in the frame/tank the next day it wasn't showing on the dipstick, so I added a pint to bring it up to level. The next day it was low again so I added another pint to bring to the level - and that's when I realized something must be wrong. So I drained the crank case to check where all the oil was gone, and sure enough most of it was in the engine. By the way, the engine had not even been started since I changed the oil.

There must be some sort of mechanism that is supposed to keep the oil from dropping into the crankcase, but I cannot figure it out.

[turboguzzi]

Read the manual properly this time!

you check the oil level in the tank ONLY AFTER you run it for 10 minutes. Not when cold.

doing it like you did youll end up having tons oil down in the cases and will blow up seals, etc.

empty everything and do what plugeye says.

[johntee]

Thank you turboguzzi,

Are you saying that there should always be a fair bit of oil in the crankcase? If that is so then there may not be a problem with the oil check valve after all.

I would still like to know where it is though.

I couldn't check the oil level as per the manual because I could not start it as I do not have enough strength in my leg to kick it over at the moment, so I asked a friend around to help me but he refused to kick it over because he said the oil was not at the correct level - that is why I added the extra oil in the first place.

[turboguzzi]

"Are you saying that there should always be a fair bit of oil in the crankcase?" Yes, if the bike stood for anything between few days to weeks.

In a DR350 oil always simply slowly drips into the cases, in some bikes slower, some faster, so eventually collects there, ends up in crankcase.

fresh check valve can help a bit,

on bikes with dry sump like the DR you simply can not check the oil level until they have warmed up. its not like most other bikes with wet sump in the engine where all oil is always in there.

[johntee]

Thank you turboguzzi for that explanation. It seems that on my bike, the oil must be dripping into the cases at a faster than normal rate as it took only 24 hours to lose a pint into the engine. That is why I wanted to examine/replace the check valve, but I have no idea where it is.

[plugeye]

if the motor hadn't been run in so long you can't remember about oil, you can pull the case plug to check the case oil level. seen at the bottom of this picture on the clutch cover. (per the owners manual)

 

[johntee]

Thanks plugeye. The problem here is that there is always oil flowing out of this plug as the oil is constantly leaking from the frame tank into the crankcase.

[turboguzzi]

what we are tying to tell you is that you do not have a problem in the first place..... 24 H for a pint is not an issue. all you need to do to check the oil is start the motor for 10 mins. and only then check the dipstick.

....seems that the quarantine is making loads of people find non existing problems with bike, wife, kids, etc ?

[johntee]

Thank you for that, turboguzzi, I love your sense of humor.

Perhaps I was indeed seeking problems that do not exist, but although I have had many issues with my many motorcycles over the last 58 years; I have never been totally stumped as to how to proceed in finding a solution to my present predicament.

I had a Honda 650cc Dominator in 1989 and a  DRZ 400 in 2005 and neither of them ever  displayed such symptoms of oil loss from the frame/oil tank as to make me concerned with a suspected problem, but I guess the DR350 is not something I should be worried about, as I cannot even start it at present.

A few days ago as I was trying to start it; the compression was such that it felt like it almost broke my foot while kicking it over and that is why I cannot follow the manual precisely in the recommended procedure.

As you say, turboguzzi, sometimes we find problems when none exist.

[turboguzzi]

well, if you are in the uk and been riding for so long, i dont have to tell you where the oil in a norton, matchless or triumph usually ended up ?

Edited May 4, 2020 by turboguzzi

[johntee]

You are right my friend, at least the DR350 is a step up.

[turboguzzi]

I went for an e-start DR350 for my girlfriend's ride, makes quite a difference in ease of use.... recommended.

[johntee]

I'm sorry I sold my DRZ400 a couple of years ago. I missed it so much that I bought the kick start DR350 thinking it would be a good replacement at a cheaper price, not realizing that it was just as heavy and even taller than my DRZ (that had lowering links fitted). Big mistake for me at my age. All I have to do now with the DR is get it running right, sell it when the lockdown eases, and get an electric start.

[turboguzzi]

oh, i see.... sorry for your loss ?

for the times my girlfriend rides the bike i made lowering links for the 350 and raised the fork legs in the clamps too, then bought a spare seat and carved 5 cm off the foam.

only bummer was that i had to shorten side stand too.

she is 1.70 meter tall and it made quite a bit of difference for her.

I can switch configurations in 20 minutes.... change seat, change links, slide fork and mount the spacer for the shortened  kickstand

[johntee]

Hi again turboguzzi, I am intrigued by your home made lowering links. They normally cost around 100 euros or so to buy.

What did you make them from and where did you get the information for the hole centers?

[turboguzzi]

im in lockdown away from my bikes! so exact dimensions will have to wait.

links were made out of 30mm X 6mm flat aluminum section, you can get it from any ebay engineering supply. 

roughly speaking, the suspension ratio 1:3, i.e.10mm shorter link equals 30mm less ride height in the back. i think i made them shorter by 12mm... going by memory

[johntee]

I just been looking at the suspension, wouldn't it require a longer link to lower the ride height???

[plugeye]

2 minutes ago, johntee said:

I just been looking at the suspension, wouldn't it require a longer link to lower the ride height???

yes. longer set of links with spacers