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NjBetaRider

2020 Beta possibly totatlled

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2 hours ago, NjBetaRider said:

Looks like at least a few grains of sand. I'm not sure if the slide wedged at full open or if the sand fell into the needle at full open. The needle is scored up quite a bit and that slide is nasty. Bowl appeared clean. It's almost like the air box was leaking

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Thanks for the pictures here. Well looks pretty obvious so far. 

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Ive had one bike spit me off like yours. It had sand hanging up the slide. A friends bike he sent to me to trouble shoot. 

 Check your air filter very carefully. He said he did but i found a large hole after the crash. Make sure its seated properly. 

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8 hours ago, seer said:

Ive had one bike spit me off like yours. It had sand hanging up the slide. A friends bike he sent to me to trouble shoot. 

 Check your air filter very carefully. He said he did but i found a large hole after the crash. Make sure its seated properly. 

I will take it out and inspect it. It is well seated with plenty of grease and I grease the filter frame tabs too just in case. I see on here the pictures really dont show the scoring on the needle that well.

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On 5/17/2020 at 11:00 PM, widebear said:

You can also use this thing on the left side of the handlebar that decouples the engines power from the rear wheel if for whatever reason the throttle sticks.

Not to say your wrong but I know from experience with two bikes once the rpms get so high the kill switch doesn't work lol shit I've even pulled a spark plug before at high rpm and it ran for a minute or two but I do agree all bikes have issues and sometimes it's not the owners fault it could have been the previous owner doing work that he had no business doing

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On 5/17/2020 at 9:43 PM, campdirt said:

ktm 2 strokes had throttle cable pull outs for years.well documented on thumpertalk 

Yes was even a recall in 2013

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Figured they would have billet triples. At least with billets your wheel would have almost 100% of the damage and not your pipe.

Huskys and 6 days come with billets. Makes a huge difference IMO.

The outcome would have been different if the triple did not break since the wheel is the weakest link in the front end.

 

 

 

 

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21 minutes ago, Slate said:

Figured they would have billet triples. At least with billets your wheel would have almost 100% of the damage and not your pipe.

Huskys and 6 days come with billets. Makes a huge difference IMO.

The outcome would have been different if the triple did not break since the wheel is the weakest link in the front end.

 

 

 

 

Well Beta will come with whatever you order them to come with with Build your own Beta if wanting to go that route. That’s one benefit of buying a Beta that you don’t get with any other brand. You can have a custom bike made for you .. suspension and all. So anyone can order billet clamps if they like. I sure wouldn’t unless I wanted to change offset which I don’t. Really I don’t buy at all that a billet triples would make any difference at all in this freak accident. 
 

That could be a topic though... billet triple clamps? Is it worth it for enduro bikes? Is it worth it for Beta?  For me it’s more bling than anything.. unless changing offset??. ..but Betas handle very well as is. 

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13 minutes ago, hawaiidirtrider said:

Well Beta will come with whatever you order them to come with with Build your own Beta if wanting to go that route. That’s one benefit of buying a Beta that you don’t get with any other brand. You can have a custom bike made for you .. suspension and all. So anyone can order billet clamps if they like. I sure wouldn’t unless I wanted to change offset which I don’t. Really I don’t buy at all that a billet triples would make any difference at all in this freak accident. 
 

That could be a topic though... billet triple clamps? Is it worth it for enduro bikes? Is it worth it for Beta?  For me it’s more bling than anything.. unless changing offset??. ..but Betas handle very well as is. 

Forget the billet term as that has been killed by the bling association. IMO I seriously doubt if they were milled (instead of cast) triples they would not have broken.

There is a reason they put milled triples on pro bikes as well as upgraded bikes. 

Milled is vastly stronger than cast which has been proven time and time again in all sort of parts. Cast will break while milled will bend and stretch till it fails.

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8 minutes ago, Slate said:

Forget the billet term as that has been killed by the bling association. IMO I seriously doubt if they were milled (instead of cast) triples they would not have broken.

There is a reason they put milled triples on pro bikes as well as upgraded bikes. 

Milled is vastly stronger than cast which has been proven time and time again in all sort of parts. Cast will break while milled will bend and stretch till it fails.

Yeah maybe if ripping doubles and triples on an mx track billet triples may be a worthwhile thang. .... but hey whatever. To each their own. What do billet triples run now? Like 5 to 8 hundred?? I got some sale  adjustable billet Boano racing factory fancy pancy triples for my 525 . It’s supposed to be adjustable from 18 to 22mm offset? I ended up going back to stock offset and like it best there. I wouldn’t have bought them unless aI had them at a good deal. For enduro?? Nyaaa...Had some brp billet 19mm triples too I tried . I didn’t like them but those were supposed to be a little better for desert. 

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4 hours ago, Support The Movement Inc said:

Not to say your wrong but I know from experience with two bikes once the rpms get so high the kill switch doesn't work lol shit I've even pulled a spark plug before at high rpm and it ran for a minute or two but I do agree all bikes have issues and sometimes it's not the owners fault it could have been the previous owner doing work that he had no business doing

 

I had that happen on a trials bike.  I was riding in a gravel pit (legally setting up a trials event).  I was on a tall ledge with a steep drop off of at least 100 feet.   A branch yanked my throttle cable housing out of the throttle.  I was on the clutch immediately.  But I pulled my tether and the bike was still running at WOT.   I kept trying to dump the clutch to stall it but that was scary because I was on a 3 foot wide ledge.  Eventually I buried the rear wheel deep enough to stall it.

That has always bugged me on why it kept running.   The tether kill switch works.  That's how I shut the bike off.  Besides shutting the bike off thousands of times that way, I've had the tether pull off in numerous crashes and it always shut the bike off.   The difference here is the motor was already at very high RPM when I yanked the tether.

So why do they keep running?  Is it an electrical thing and the plug is still firing?  Or is it dieseling?  

Doc

Edited by Doc_d

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11 hours ago, Doc_d said:

 

I had that happen on a trials bike.  I was riding in a gravel pit (legally setting up a trials event).  I was on a tall ledge with a steep drop off of at least 100 feet.   A branch yanked my throttle cable housing out of the throttle.  I was on the clutch immediately.  But I pulled my tether and the bike was still running at WOT.   I kept trying to dump the clutch to stall it but that was scary because I was on a 3 foot wide ledge.  Eventually I buried the rear wheel deep enough to stall it.

That has always bugged me on why it kept running.   The tether kill switch works.  That's how I shut the bike off.  Besides shutting the bike off thousands of times that way, I've had the tether pull off in numerous crashes and it always shut the bike off.   The difference here is the motor was already at very high RPM when I yanked the tether.

So why do they keep running?  Is it an electrical thing and the plug is still firing?  Or is it dieseling?  

Doc

@Doc_d:  I believe what you describe was dieseling.  On my (obviously) non-race, bone-stock, 1981 Suzuki TS185, in my youth, when leaving it to winter over on a remote island near Canada, I would turn off the petcock and run around the yard, trying to run all the gas out of the carb for storage purposes.  One time, the RPM's started rising, from an idle (happily, I was either stopped, in neutral, or barely moving, in a flat yard--I can't remember now) but I held in the clutch and turned off the (keyed) ignition, but it just kept revving--higher and higher.  I'm sure I also tried the kill switch, too, but it just kept winding up.  It revved so high the vibration through the bars was unreal--as in, I believe it was visible.  Eventually, it just slowed down and died.  Still ran fine, afterwards, for years.  I was stopped, bars straight, throttle closed, but it was just screaming.  (No tachometer--that was eliminated for the last year of the TS, in 1981.)

So what happened?  I believe (based on reading I've done, since) that when an engine is just running on vapors, as opposed to atomized fuel, it can do a "run-away."  Perhaps that's from it getting too hot, running on an abnormally-lean mixture, so that carbon deposits stay incandescent?  Or--and I think this is more likely--the RPM's are just so high the flame-front is near-constant enough to keep it "lit"?  In any event, the bike had to be dieseling, because the ignition was definitely TURNED OFF.  And this was an oil-injected bike but, with the throttle closed, you're only getting an idle-appropriate amount of oil injection, possibly contributing to what I'll call an "instant-overheat" situation.  (Was your trials bike oil-injected, Doc?)  In any event, at super-high revs (and temps?), obviously "spark" is no longer needed to keep the thing firing.  (And no, I have no idea why it never seized.)
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

@OP:  SO glad you (seem) to be just banged up!  And to the other guy who had this happen, and hit the tree UPSIDE DOWN, with his BACK--JFC!!!  SO glad you're okay too!  That's freakin' LUCKY, considering you could have fallen straight down and broken your neck, after hitting the tree!

Q.1:  Many have mentioned "how Honda runs the throttle cable."  Can someone post a clear pic of what this desired routing is?  I have a 2014 Christini 300 AWD E-Start, with a GAS GAS 300 in it, and I am now, officially, freaked the &%$#@! out!  I'd like to see how the Christini's cable is run, and compare it to what Honda does.

Q. 2: The P.O. of my Christini is far better a rider than I'll ever be, and I love that he's got the brakes  adjusted super-tight (zero free-play, up front), but there is also ZERO free-play in the throttle, and the GAS GAS manual clearly states a certain amount of slack is required.  Should I adjust some slack into the TC at the handlebar, or down on top of the carb?

Regarding Those That (Cavalierly) Suggest the OP Should Have Been Able to Just Grab the Clutch:
I used to investigate accidents for a living--including fatalities.  Lots of automotive, some construction, but never an MC accident.  As you know, accidents happen FAST.  If the bars are jerked (mostly) out of your hands, and the bike's halfway running out from under you (in an unplanned WHEELIE, while trying to SEE through the foliage that's whacking you in the face, as the OP was) how's one supposed to RE-grab the clutch that's already slipped out of your grasp?

Which Brings Me to Q. 3, Still Kinda/Sorta ON Topic: 
My Christini's P.O. CUT his levers (Magura, at least on the clutch side) waaay short, to allow at least two fingers to remain on the 'bars at all times, which I "get" but, as an older, returning rider who was never nearly as skilled as most here, I'm not comfortable with this.  (Meaning, I can imagine hitting a bump/hole, etc..., and having my finger(s) slip off the clutch.  I'll post pics of what he did, in a future thread, but I'd be more comfortable with some "shortie" levers that still had the BALLS on the ends of them.  Thoughts and recommendations?  Does anyone else simply SAW OFF 50%+ of your levers--clutch and front brake?  (This guy is a machinist, so he definitely likes power tools--LOL.)

Thanks and again, glad the OP is okay!  And that the insurance paid off!  (Curious to know what the buy-back price was.)  Also, other, major carriers will insure dirt bikes, too--but it sounds like Progressive was easy to work with--I'm assuming there was no talk of "depreciation" on a 2020 bike!  LOL

Edited by Read Valve

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7 hours ago, Doc_d said:

 

I had that happen on a trials bike.  I was riding in a gravel pit (legally setting up a trials event).  I was on a tall ledge with a steep drop off of at least 100 feet.   A branch yanked my throttle cable housing out of the throttle.  I was on the clutch immediately.  But I pulled my tether and the bike was still running at WOT.   I kept trying to dump the clutch to stall it but that was scary because I was on a 3 foot wide ledge.  Eventually I buried the rear wheel deep enough to stall it.

That has always bugged me on why it kept running.   The tether kill switch works.  That's how I shut the bike off.  Besides shutting the bike off thousands of times that way, I've had the tether pull off in numerous crashes and it always shut the bike off.   The difference here is the motor was already at very high RPM when I yanked the tether.

So why do they keep running?  Is it an electrical thing and the plug is still firing?  Or is it dieseling?  

Doc

Dieseling but if you get it on  5th or 6th gear and let the clutch it will probably stall. Or not... 

Or will when it starts running out of gas and put that extra load. 

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On 5/22/2020 at 5:48 PM, David37 said:

Now that you own your totaled 2020 300, what are your plans for the bike? 

Shifter cart!

Paint chipped/cracked at the bottom of the steering head indicates metal strain and likely bent. Perhaps not enough to matter, but...

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13 hours ago, Slate said:

Figured they would have billet triples. At least with billets your wheel would have almost 100% of the damage and not your pipe.

Huskys and 6 days come with billets. Makes a huge difference IMO.

The outcome would have been different if the triple did not break since the wheel is the weakest link in the front end.

 

 

 

 

Wheels explode just looking at a tree on a KTM😃

Bikes are not designed with crumple zones. 

Edited by Johnny Depp
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12 hours ago, Doc_d said:

 

OMG!  It is the thread that never ends!  This is like an oil question.  Will it ever stop?  I'm going to crash into a tree and we can start all over again!!!!!  The HORROR, THE HORROR!

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1 hour ago, OFS said:

OMG!  It is the thread that never ends!  This is like an oil question.  Will it ever stop?  I'm going to crash into a tree and we can start all over again!!!!!  The HORROR, THE HORROR!

It’s a wreck. You cannot look away and you cannot unsee. 

BTW,  I too am glad to see the 0P walked away from this one. We have likely all been to the urgent care or hospital at times. 

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Hi,  If your going to be able to keep it for spares, I would be interested in the 300 top end/cdi to convert from my 250 rr re 20. 

Glad that you got away with it so to speak, stuff happens quick when unintended! Had a similar rev up on my 20 re. 2 weeks ago, when it was new 3rd small ride. Had a look nut nothing to be seen. Reading this in will be looking further into it.! 

Insurance is a blessing here... heal well

 

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