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XR650L No oil on dipstick after install oil cooler

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So I don’t normally have oil dipstick reading issues, but I installed the Sutton cycle works oil cooler today (to the exact directions he provides) as well as studying the manual and videos of folks who did it.

I put almost 2 quarts back into the bike. Let it sit upright idling for 5-10 mins, let it sit another 5-10 upright after shutting off. No reading at all on dipstick.

no leaks, no kinks, photos below. Please help ASAP so I can ride through the weekend!! (That zip tie is on there very light, hardly tightened) 

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3 minutes ago, Bigfatredpig said:

The oil cooler adds a few ozs, add a few and see if you get a reading. 

I know it details it adds 150cc capacity and that’s roughly .16 quarts. I have 1.9 in it roughly and I prolly didn’t drain the whole shebang last time.

 

IT MAY be important to add that it sat with oil drained overnight so, idk if that makes it take a lot longer to recycle and read properly...

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Just now, Brian92s said:

I know it details it adds 150cc capacity and that’s roughly .16 quarts. I have 1.9 in it roughly and I prolly didn’t drain the whole shebang last time.

 

IT MAY be important to add that it sat with oil drained overnight so, idk if that makes it take a lot longer to recycle and read properly...

I’m gonna order that same oil cooler on Friday, let me know what you find. 
I’ve heard great things about the Sutton oil cooler. 

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2 minutes ago, Bigfatredpig said:

I’m gonna order that same oil cooler on Friday, let me know what you find. 
I’ve heard great things about the Sutton oil cooler. 

As have I, I’ll report on temp drops too once I am not afraid to ride it. The install was seriously a breeze. Without having to run to hardware store for some wrenches twice, the install is like 2-3 hours, with half of that being just sizing up the hoses on the mount (in super anal fashion)

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5 minutes ago, Brian92s said:

I know it details it adds 150cc capacity and that’s roughly .16 quarts. I have 1.9 in it roughly and I prolly didn’t drain the whole shebang last time.

 

IT MAY be important to add that it sat with oil drained overnight so, idk if that makes it take a lot longer to recycle and read properly...

Have you started the bike up? When I left my clutch cover off for like 24 hours and had no oil in it for those 24 hours, my oil pump didn’t properly prime When I filled it back up and I’m fairly certain it lead to my cooked top end.  I would check you have oil flow. 

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I am also super cautious/nervous about mods so I may just be paranoid. I am sure I could ride it fine and it will show on the stick after a 10 or so min ride... I’ve just put so much money and work into the bike for this season, i’d hate to damage or seize the engine from being too lazy... 

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1 minute ago, Bigfatredpig said:

Have you started the bike up? When I left my clutch cover off for like 24 hours and had no oil in it for those 24 hours, my oil pump didn’t properly prime When I filled it back up and I’m fairly certain it lead to my cooked top end.  I would check you have oil flow. 

I did, and I hate to admit but I had started it for 10-30 seconds before adding oil (stupid)... but that’s really short and I also drained the oil cold so I doubt it was completely empty... how would I check for flow? 
 

I filled it after that stupid moment, then let it run upright for 5 mins, let it sit for 5 and checked.. 

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Could be a oil pump priming issue, how do you get it to go again?

i should also add it doesn’t seem to make any off putting or concerning noises while idling for those 5-10 mins...

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Oh also I know for a fact it wasn’t completely empty as after the crappy startup brain fart (super briefly) I realized I wanted to put a new crush washer on the engine drain bolt and a decent bit of oil poured out while I did that 

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4 minutes ago, Brian92s said:

I did, and I hate to admit but I had started it for 10-30 seconds before adding oil (stupid)... but that’s really short and I also drained the oil cold so I doubt it was completely empty... how would I check for flow? 
 

I filled it after that stupid moment, then let it run upright for 5 mins, let it sit for 5 and checked.. 

That is definitely how you get air in your oil pump.
I would drain all the oil again, add a quart in the left intake valve cap and the other quart into the hole where the dip stick lives. I just rebuilt my engine so I wouldn’t take any chances. 

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4 minutes ago, Bigfatredpig said:

That is definitely how you get air in your oil pump.
I would drain all the oil again, add a quart in the left intake valve cap and the other quart into the hole where the dip stick lives. I just rebuilt my engine so I wouldn’t take any chances. 

Yes I am not looking to take chances. I have oil on hand to do that. So for clarity, put a quart into the left (when on the bike). As in remove this cap and just pour it in? And why this one and not the other 3 specifically? Thanks! 
 

 

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Edited by Brian92s

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Yes the left intake cap. Brian talked about it in a old thread but it lessens the chance of getting air in the oil pump, plus it puts a ton of oil directly on your top end. It’s how I change my oil now and it works great. 

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I have the oil cooler. I use 2.25 quarts everytime I change it. There's a bracket that holds the hoses that attaches where the plastic fairings went. Looks like it's missing and you don't have to use cable tie. I cut the pipes right on the bike and didn't use all the oiling mess and only 1 clamp on each end.  About a 1/2 hr.

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Perhaps to avoid draining oil and whatnot, Where are the upper and lower banjo bolts? I have seen a lot of forums about loosening the lower banjo bolt and blowing compressed air in the oil fill hole. I have seen people say the blow it through other areas as well but this seems the easiest method.

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Update: 

drained oil, only about 1/2 a quart in frame and 3/4-7/8 in engine, Ton of it is pouring out the filter cover as I take it off (still working on it). Thoughts? I also have a stainless steel and filter Magnet in here which is new, could this have messed up? 

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That crankcase check bolt also didn’t drain any oil or anything...

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Did you blow thru the cooler and hoses before connecting to the frame to check for obstructions?

I would prime the cooler system and follow the oil change procedure from there.

2 qts no filter ( + oil cooler amount)

or 2.3 qts  w/ filter change..........+/- (put the .3 in the intake cover cap as BFRP said earlier)

(you can use the kill switch / press the starter button) To still rotate the engine to help prime the pump with out it starting.

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I would assemble every back up tight,Put  a quart in the left intake valve cover, quart in the dipstick hole then assemble the bike.
The lower banjo bolt is right where the pulse generator wire comes out, loosen her up after you have the bike running and make sure oil starts to come out. it’s the metal oil line. 

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